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I've been looking at their kit and talking to them also.
My open questions are:
1) Should I or can I use both of the 2 pins that come in the kit?
2) I don't want to buy this company's (different from ATI SC) $400-500 damper. How can I do this with my Stock Damper? How do I key the stock damper exactly? Do I have a pin hole drilled? A keyway cut? What is the correct procedure for modifying the stock damper??
If anyone knows, I appreciate!
I plan on calling ATI Perf's engineering dept early this week to find out.
I'm using stock damper. As you know the kit is just a steel jig that go over the
crank to facilitate drilling into it. You then have to cut a groove into the stock damper to go over the pin. I believe the shop that did mine use only one pin.
So, the crank only gets 1 or 2 holes & 1 or 2 pins.
The stock damper gets a keyway cut all the way across?
What depth and width did you use for the keyway?
I believe the pins are 3/16" diam.
How deep were the pin holes on the crank?
Do you have the instructions that came with the kit?
Just want to make sure before everything arrives.
Your mechanic did the keyway, but wasn't an engine machine shop, eh?
I don't know everything about dampers and I just don't want to throw the balance off.
Let me try & explain this a little better. You drill a hole in your crank w/ the jig provided & insert the pin. The location & height of the pin will determine how big & where the groove is cut on the inside rim of the damper. It is a precision job. They took mine out to a machine shop to have it done. The damper will then just slide snuggly over the pin.
As far as making the jig itself, it's not that simple. It got to fit onto the snout of the crank a certain way, there are many cut on the outside rim of the ATI unit angled differently allowing you to do that.
The job itself is a bit involved too. You have to drop the steering rack off to gain access to do the work. I got charged $240 for the job, the shop that did mine did not charge me for the ATI kit, 'cause they're keeping it. Best bet is to borrow it from someone & pay a fee for it if you want to do it yourself, otherwise you would not save much. But if you're installing the whole ATI SC unit yourself also then it's more convenient to do the keying at the same time I guess.
Dave2, Was there any trouble drilling into the crank and damper at the same time -- are both metals about the same strength. I really appreciate you posting the pictures. :D
Dave2, Was there any trouble drilling into the crank and damper at the same time -- are both metals about the same strength. I really appreciate you posting the pictures. :D
The drill jig I had made has 3/16 hole. Hole is .030 off center to crank side so point of bit is drilling in harder crank material only to help prevent walking to softer balancer. Hole was very easy to drill.
Looking at the pics.. so the drill bit goes into both the crank & damper at the same time making the pin hole? The picture helps...
Yes hole is drilled in both at same time.
Does the ATI Perf kit work the same way? Do all work this way? Pinned from the side into both, not top to bottom?
I think ATI kit requires removing balancer. Holes are then drilled in side of crank and pins installed. Then balancer has to have keyway cut and slides over pins.
The above being the damper on the crank snout, the pins go vertical up and then 180* down for the optional 2nd.
The pins are 3/16" wide. You cut a keyway across the ENTIRE interior of the stock damper so that it slides all the way across the raised pin stuck in the crank snout. The pins are .093" above the crank snout when inserted. Not sure how tall they want the keyway, but it'll need to be at least .093".
I don't see any reason why a 2nd pin would be any more difficult to do, so you might as well. You take your stock damper to a machine shop and have them create 2 identical 3/16" wide keyways 180* opposite each other. They don't need to know anything else, so don't even tell them what you are doing.
I think ATI Performance will keyway your stock damper, but am not sure what they charge. Will confirm. Not 100% sure what height for the keyway is best.
I like Daves2 solution. Can anybody see any potential problems with this?
The way I did it is just like a keyway except it is a round key rather than a square one. I only drilled hole 1 inch deep so if damper is ever removed hole needs to be drilled to back of balancer to be able to index on reinstall. I chose this method so I did not have to remove balancer at this time.