fxrhm

Been following all the posts on forced induction and nitrous. A lot mention using gas with at least 93 octane. I haven't seen 93 Octane in Phoenix, AZ, only 91; so what to do. I don't want ot add addtitives to the fuel if I go with a S/C or Nitrous.

Cya5

The level of octane gas stations carry varies on your elavation. All they are saying is use super unleded (93 is typically offered as super unleaded at sea level). Personally, if I were using A LOT OF NOS (over 150 shot) I would run race gas 104. But that is just me.

As far as a S/C are concerned use high octane if you want to go faster by advancing your timing.

It works just like a cutting torch the mixture needs to be just right. :chevy

intel55

Well running at Firebird you can always get some good racing fuel.
When using nitrous I like to add 1 gallon of Toulene to every 5 gallons of gas to guard against detonation. A 100 shot or lower you should be OK, but ATAP it. A 150 shot you really should use race gas or Toulene or Xylene. It sucks in Arizona ( I am in Tucson right now :D love this place) you really only find 91 octane. If you were going the S/C route in the AZ heat I would drop the compression and run a 160 stat or the electric water pump (I have more detailed info on that, but you need to email me about it :D ). You can also take out timing with LS1edit. :cheers:

davidmax

In the Phonix/Tempe area we will be selling either BP or Sunnoco 108 unleaded racing fuel.The reason were going 108 and not 100 as is being sold by others,we have a conversion chart that will bring you to 100+.If you need 100 you should attempt to stick with that octane going to 106 as most people believe will make it fly were you can get a diminishing effect,or actually slow you down.
On our Dyno with new machinery coming in it will be tuned only as good as LPE can do it and it can be a 5-20 hour job with a duplicate PCM Burner.If you mod or unmod the motor we will adjust the PCM of course having the car and PCM together eliminates guess work we supply them with complete TQE. and Pony Count at the wheels along with fuel/air curve.Do watch your octane 1-3 points to HI is ok but dont do 91 in a car designed for 93 or 95 etc....

YOURS TRULY.David Smilovic PS
THERES no reason if no bottom end or gear or TQE. converter is needed for break in,Just drive it hard but a couple of people need to let everything break in I suggest drive it on the track for a few 13 second 1/4'syou'll be surprised when yo approach the 135 kick you off the track speed,Ive done 14.75@ 130mph last 1/3 in 5th gear.Dave

rwj383

if i understand you correctly, you want to know if you can run S/C and not worry about fuel additiives. this is very possible. one option is to run a conservative boost level and monitor KR often to find what that level is. a second option is to also lower static compression ratio. you can also tweek computer to have less total timing. all of these options reduce power potentials, but, a worthy trade-off for engine longevity and economy

RatRacer

Add Toluene to your pump gas. Mixing in 10% will raise 91 to 93.4 octane. 20% will raise 91 to 96 octane.

This is what I do when in am running nitrous.

bruce1

I add 5 gal. when I race, at the drags.
And I try to run near empty, prior to adding the fuel, thus using all the octane advantages from the 104 unleaded.

A must when using nitrous, anything over 100 shot!

Avanti

I have dynoed and currently run on the street an iron head engine with 9.0 compression ratio and 10# of boost quite successfully on 93 octane. No additives, no detonation, no problems. Figure aluminum heads allow .5-1.0 higher static compression, depending on design. Good luck. :yesnod: