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For launch tips I always say hello to the customer and give them extra buns.
Seriously it depends on the car.If you watch Super Stock cars they nail it on a dead idle to get the converter to flash higher.When you do this method you will get more RPMs out of your converter compared to building it up on the line.Of course the ultimate setup is a trans brake if you have enough tire to handle the power.When I'm driving a turbo car this method works best for me.I do my burnout and pull up to the line.If you stage shallow it will give you a little more time if the car starts to push through.Once I see both stage bulbs on I wait for the lights to come down and then forget about the tree.I stand on the brake and put the pedal to the floor.When I think the front tires are going to start pushing threw I let the brake go and hope it hooks.It takes a lot of practise to get the feel to know when to let the brake go.When I use this method I forget the lights and concentrate on what I'm doing.I'm looking for the best 60' and not beating the car beside me.This method makes it almost impossible to cut a good light but will give you your best ET.Cars that are over powered just have to try each method and see which one works.The whole secret is track time.I don't know many people that have turned their best time the first couple of times down the track.
Good luck.
hey chris, how much rwhp and how quick have you gone? Thanks for the info. tracy
About 700rwhp and as quick as 9.7@142 using 3000rpm transbrake. I don't have an NHRA license, so I have it detuned to run about 10.1@134 for bracket racing. The 2000rpm footbrake is good for 1.6x 60' and runs low 10's. If I just stomp it off the line, it runs a couple tenth slower in the 1/4.
Originally Posted by jimish
I've got a 2800 stall converter. I hope my front tires can hold the car on the line without pushing through the lights.
Yeah, mine pushes thru the brakes about 2500rpm. Having things pre-loaded definitely helps with a tight stall.