Longtubes had to be backed off for the bellhousing to come off. Clutch won't go in with the bellhousing on either.

 

Hi, actually you can install a clutch & flywheel on a C5 without pulling the bellhousing...But we always recommend pulling the BH so you can clean up everything really good, also you can get to the torque pattern much easier on the flywheel & pressure plate..

 

On my '02 z06 that was not the case. No freaking way! I tried.

 

On a C5 (at least on my '99) the bell housing can stay because of the inspection cover. Not on a C6 though and those top bolts are tough to reach...

 

I would recommend an RPS. Give me a call on Monday or PM me your number and I will call you today.

 

Hey Ben, just remember what we spoke about the other day on the RPS Clutches, you will need at least the Full Carbon Billet Aluminum Street Twin, to handle your power level...Plus as you know we have the Best prices...thanks...

 

Consider yourself lucky!!! I personally had a clutch explode on the dyno on decel. Lifted the car up and tore through the dash and bottom of the car. A piece of the pressure plate went through the dyno operators legs, out the window and took a chunk out of a wall. Cost me 8k in repair.

 

Subscribed, I have a spec 3 plus with only 1100 miles so far on it.
Just got it last April. I sure hope the designs have changed since 2008. Im only at 440 to the wheels.

Thanks for posting!

 

Putting in a twin clutch requires the removal of the bellhousing.

Installing a quicktime scattershield is a PIA. You'll need to pull the bell housing and the entire clutch assembly.

Fit up the rear plate to the block, than install the flywheel and clutch assembly. Make sure use a metal spline shaft to align the the clutch disc.

The quicktime bell housing has no opening in the bottom for access to the clutch like the factory bell housings do.

Only use (2) bolt to place up the bell housing initially and then check to see that your exhaust clears the bell housing. If it does not clear, you'll need to break out the grinder and do a little bit of grinding on the edges.

Once you get everthing clearanced properly finish bolting everything up. I recommend seperating the transmission and differential from the torque tube and putting the torque tube up by itself. Support the TT with a jack stand.

Hook up the slave lines and check bleed and verify that your clutch is releasing properly. Hopefully you have a remote bleeder installed.

You can verify that the clutch is releasing correctly by holding down the clutch pedal and having a friend or yourself use the metal spline shaft to very that the inner TT shaft spins freely without drag.

I would recommend that you use a Tick adjustable master while you're at, so that you can get the pedal height set to what you like.

 

As mentioned above you will need to clearance the QT bellhousing for your exhaust, bleeder line and ground clearance. These pics show how I modified mine.

 

I just got done installing a RPS twin carbon street, and didn't remove the bellhousing. I didn't install a scattershield, though.

 

I'm sorry I haven't replied back. Work has really owned me this week. I'm looking forward to the weekend.

There has been some very good information submitted here.

Vince99FRC: It's unbelievable what happened to your car. I can't image what the aftermath looked like. I do consider myself fortunate to hopefully only have to repair the clutch. The price of the scatter shield will be miniscule compared to your repair bill.

ajg1915 and FRC Joe: Thanks for detailed information and pictures. This perfectly describes what needs to be done to make it all work. I'm not afraid of breaking out the grinder to make something fit. I'll be using this info soon.

I'm hoping to make some progress this weekend and will post what I find.

 

That looks good. Mine is full size and that bottom part bangs on some speed bumps if I go to fast. It's like it's 1" too big, but you cleaned it up nice.

 

Don't rush and take your time. Make sure you get the clutch plates lined up correctly as you have no access once the bell housing is installed, without having to remove it again.

 

highpockets:
I'm curious if you have seen this failure before and can shed any light on what happened?

 

Here is another view:

 

Well,I will tell you what I have seen,and yes,I have seen multiple clutches do this,including OE clutches in Import cars. I suspect the shock of a clutch dump "shocks" the straps,eventually causing them to buckle(see the ridge/bump near the riveted ends).Eventually,like anything else,they will only bend back and forth so many times before they break.Centrifugal force swings them outwards and they contact the inside of the bellhousing causing immediate and further damage. Manufacturers add additional straps(multiple layers,like yours) to increase the strength however,they have to flex slightly to allow the PP to work correctly so unfortunately,this eventually happens.Solution ?? Different style/brand PP,NO clutch dumps,low power stock setup,auto trans. Sorry,you gotta pay to play.Good advise to add the QT scattershield as you can plainly see that piece can literally cut the bellhousing apart ! Best of luck,glad to see you making progress.

 

Thank you, it's nice to speak to someone that makes logical sense. I wasted 30 minutes on the phone today with the manufacturer of this clutch speaking to a person that obviously makes a living talking to people.

I was told "We have never seen this type of failure before. This assembly experienced a severe shock that caused it to rebound. When it sprang back, the straps broke because they are not designed to take this type of load. The straps are now reversed 180 degrees from their intended direction and the cover has shifted. Furthermore it looks like you must have some type of leak. We can't do anything for you. You didn't use this clutch as it was intended to be used." For anyone wondering, this text is called Comic Sans MS, I chose it due to the comical nature of this explanation.

When I didn't agree, I was then told that I must be really unhappy and that maybe we are just not meant to be able to communicate with each other. Translation: I just explained everything to you and you didn't buy it, so now I am going to use some other tactics to try and make you mad so that we can reach an impasse and I can further justify not warrantying this assembly. This tactic didn't have the desired effect either.

I was then offered some options:
1. Rebuild pressure plate if possibly for $ and pair it with used disk and flywheel, or
2. A minor discount on a new assembly of the same design.

Bottom line: I know exactly what happened and I won't be purchasing something rated for xxx power level that doesn't have every part designed to rated capacity. If a strap can't take the power then you can't certify the kit as being proven.

 

Thanks again, your assessment of the situation is what I know to be true. I didn't want to post it and seem biased based on my recent experience.

I agree, you have to pay to play, but I'm going to try to use better judgment before paying. For me, this means a different design.

NO clutch dumps and low power stock setups don't get you to the finish line nearly fast enough. The auto would be fast, but I enjoy the manual.

 

If a clutch supplier doesnt warranty that, NEVER buy a clutch from them. That sort of failure should never happen.

I dont even know how anyone with any morals could try and fob someone off and blaming the user for that