Sorry to hear such clutch headaches... I think most of us high horsepower 6 speed guys have all had clutch problems... Just think about what kind of abuse they are put through... I too have had clutch failures (w the same brand you are talking about) so I feel your frustration... I went with the RPS triple billet (and scatter shield ) and have abused it with many 1.4x 60 foot launches and a best of 9.25@153... At the end of last season it was sent back to RPS to get freshened up and it was perfect... IMO go RPS and don't look back... whatever you do good luck...

 

Been using Textralia now for several years. Never once had any problems. many road miles, a few 9s runs and many 10s runs.

IMO If you buy quality product that is suitable for your needs, there shouldnt be any problems.

 

i may have missed it somewhere in this thread - but to save me or someone else from having this issue - can you PM me with your clutch info - I want to be sure I don't consider them for any future purchases?

 

You missed it in the post above lol.

 

Ok found it ... crap that's the kind I got too - keeping my fingers crossed

 

Why would you not consider a clutch that works perfectly ?

Ive used two Textralia clutches over the years. Both have been 100% faultless in every respect. I'd fully recommend them to anyone.

 

Mine was put in almost 2 years ago as well ... no problems for now - but makes me worry to hear the same type of clutch blew apart on another car!

When the time comes I'm sure I will remember what "not to buy".

cheers,

 

All anybody really needs to get from this thread is that Spec doesn't stand behind their product. It could happen with any clutch, but SPEC chooses to blame the user.

 

The blue clutch in the pic is a Spec.

 

I have a complete slightly used testralia triple I could sell you; pm if interested.

 

Not
An
Option

 

Well,I had to throw that out there ! Being as how he is posting in the FI section,I figured somebody would bite !

 

Not a problem highpockets, I thoroughly enjoyed the humor.

1stGlance: I wouldn't worry too much about your current clutch.

I used the clutch as intended to transfer power within the rated capacity. I used it over and over. It has been to the dyno on five separate occasions, made 8 separate trips to the dragstrip in two years, countless midnight fun runs on the street as well as tuning sessions on the street.

I have a launch technique that I repeat every time and I apply power the same way every time. I run on the wastegate springs so the power level is always within the same range depending on ambient temperature.

This isn't about whose clutch is better. Don't be misled, all of the single disc kits at this power level are of a very similar design.

I'm not complaining about a slipping clutch, it never slipped and I expect to find the disc intact.

My problem is that there was a product defect that occurred within the expected life cycle. It is a defect that SPEC has chosen to ignore and blame on the end user. I was told that it is my fault that they didn't design it to be used the way it should be used (Wrap your mind around that one). There is no need to do the research for them.

They have made their choice and now I choose to not recommend their product to anyone. I was a repeat customer and now an ex-customer based on overall experience.

Soon I'll remove the clutch assembly, make a few inspections and then toss it in the trash.

 

Glad that didn't happen in my Z06. The Spec 3 hurt my times, I complained about it here on the forum, then somebody from Spec Clutches jumped in an tried to discount what I stated as an opinion of the clutch.

Glad it wasn't worse. Good luck with the new clutch. I am looking at diamond clutches right now for my ls3.

 

Clearly you weren't using the clutch in a way it was not designed for which hurt your times.

 

maybe so, but it doesn't change the fact that I didn't like the clutch.

 

There is something here I just can't figure out....

I can't understand how someone can build the hell out of an engine, put slicks on the car, beat the hell out of the car and expect the clutch to hold up or be under warrenty?

 

Actually the clutch in question is on a stock long block twin turboed car with drag radials. And the owner maintains it very well and drives it hard but doesn't "beat the hell out of" it. The car produces in the 500-700 rwhp range which is were most turbo, supercharged, nitrous cars are on this forum. And the manufacturer claims the clutch kit can handle 800+rwtq. But clearly this is a failure most probably from a defective part. But the main point to take from this thread is that the representative for the manufacturer wanted to place no blaim on parts or possible defects, and didn't want to help the customer out in coming up with a postive resolution for the customer or at least a neutral resolution for both parties.

 

I've made some progress the last couple of days.

Rear Cradle Removed


Driveline Removed


Clutch



Looks like there was some wear on the disk but it is intact.

 

Everything has been really straight forward so far. The only thing that has been a surprise is that the bell housing bolts seem really hard to reach. I figured they would be easier to get to after the torque tube was removed, but not so. I tried a universal adapter with an extension on the upper bolt and as I am backing it out, it gets wedged against the firewall.

Does anyone have any tips on the bell housing removal. Should I lower the front cradle some by backing off on the nuts? Or should I loosen the motor mounts in order to get the engine to rock back more?