So I need some advice from you guys who are putting down some good power on which would be the best route for me to take.. My car is just a street car and will not see track time. I do not daily drive the car so the tire life and the rain driving is not a huge deal to me. I will probably only take out on nice days a couple times a week.

I currently am putting down 531 RWHP and 450 TQ. I plan on getting a retune real soon, adding meth, and possibly going from 8lbs to 10lbs of boost on my novi2000 from ECS (need some help deciding this as well).

I am running 305/35/18 nitto 555R's in the back and I'm using the factory Z06 rims. I can't hook up at all with these tires - maybe they're old or just not sticky enough - either way, I want to be able to hook up when I add the additional mods to my car.

So I'm torn between two different options here.. Obviously one is MUCH more cost effective but I'll only go this route if it will be able to hold the power (somewhere around 575 - 600 RWHP ).

1. Keeping my current 18x10.5 OEM Z06 rims and getting some 305/35/18 ET Streets for the rear - only $305 a tire.

2. Going all out with some 18x12 CCW C14's, fender flairs, and a 345/35/18 tire. This route will cost me $5000+ .

Will 305 ET streets be able to hold the power without spinning? Is there a better option tire for what I'm looking for?

Will option number two be overkill? I know it will look awesome, but I'm happy with what I have now so if I can hook up from a roll in first gear and not spin I will save my $4500.

Any help will be appreciated! Thanks guys.

 

I just mini tubbed and added ccw classics 18x12 with m&h 345s seeing how is the side wall is softer for a 6spd car...my 16x11.5 with 315/45/16 mt's hooked well, very well but at the cost of a mainshaft and 2 axles...car made 640rwhp & 520rwtq on 10psi...going TT and upping to 13psi...

 

I also wanted the look tho being shes a highway queen now

 

Did you break those on the street or track? From a roll or launch?

And the 315 MT's held all the power at 640RWHP? That sounds like it should be enough for me then as well..

 

the 315s were on a 16" rim, if your auto I hope your trans is built, I lost axles in the track...mainshaft went with a second gear power shift, luckily it only took a small section of the rear and not the whole rear.personally I'd rock your stock wheels and do m&h 325's.

 

No I'm 6 speed. Will the 325's fit on the stock rims and not rub fenders? I've never really heard of the M&H tires. Are they better than the ET streets?

 

theyre fairly new, a guy I met ast MIR with a gt500 said he liked them better than mt's aswell another guy in deleware, both said easier on drive train, hoosiers worked great but damn if you get caught in the rain.the guy in deleware lurks around on here but he has them on his stock wheels too

 

forgot to mention both axles that broke WERE 300m

 

I currently run the Nitto 305/18 555RII's (I'm going to a different tire when these wear out), back when I was at your power level, and maybe a little more, they hooked up OK. Off the line they were useless but on a roll from 35 or so they left some rubber and launched decent. How old are your tires, they are stamped with the date manufactored on ther side wall.

As you go up in power, traction becomes a huge issue. You have to learn to modulate your right foot input

 

I'd say the tires are probably 1 1/2 years old maybe.. maybe 1 year. Just a guess without going outside to look. Ideally I'm looking for a setup that can handle a first gear take off at maybe 20 MPH with little to no spin. I hate the idea of having to learn to feather the throttle to keep traction.. I just want to mash it down all the way everytime lol

What tires are you switching to?

 

Easier on the drive train because it doesn't hook as well? Besides the left output shaft what should I worry about breaking if I hook from a roll at around 600RWHP? I really don't see myself trying to launch the car on the street lol and don't plan on taking it to the track.

 

easier on drive train because it has a softer sidewall to take the shock from the initial hit when slipping the clutch, our side stepping which most do because they can't tell the difference.compound actually seems softer than the mt's too

 

M/T End of story
305 will be fine, i ran them with 800 hp hooked 2nd on

 

ET Streets hook better but you still need to feather esp as power goes up.

 

Well that's good to know.. I have been trying to absorb all this information and it's starting to become a headache..

Just want to make sure I make the right choice.

Glad to hear you guys saying that the 345s and flares/tub isn't necessary. I can put that $4k into something else if I can hook.

 

I guess I just need to learn where the tires break and let off a little bit until the next gear?

But mashing the gas is so much more fun!

 

yea 12" wide wheels aren't necessary but I like the fact of the amount of rubber being planted, plus its a fairly large wheel so the sidewall stability should be nice when upwards of 170 +, the mt's were good too but hell on my rear but that maybe just me when I had the et street 2's...I drive a STREET car, I dont change wheels unless I get a flat even at the track haha

 

If i was in your shoes....

Dont go with the ccw but rather another z06 style 18x12 in the rear. Grab some 345/30/18 or so and some fender flare's. Could do it for under $2500 and be more than happy. Im the same as you my wheels that are on the car stay on the car no matter where I drive it

 

What are the drag radial options for 345's? A 345 street tire isn't going to out hook a 305 DR

 

I found some 345/35/18 M/T ET Streets for $330 a tire. I really don't want to change rims if it's not necessary though. If I can hook up with a set of 305 or 315 DR's I'd rather do that so I can avoid the cost of new rims and fender flares.