Traction mods help..
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 308
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From: St. Petersburg FL
If i was in your shoes....
Dont go with the ccw but rather another z06 style 18x12 in the rear. Grab some 345/30/18 or so and some fender flare's. Could do it for under $2500 and be more than happy. Im the same as you my wheels that are on the car stay on the car no matter where I drive it
Dont go with the ccw but rather another z06 style 18x12 in the rear. Grab some 345/30/18 or so and some fender flare's. Could do it for under $2500 and be more than happy. Im the same as you my wheels that are on the car stay on the car no matter where I drive it
I was very particular about finding OEM Z06 wheels for my FRC because the repro C5Z06 rims were heavier.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: waldorf md
Well the only problem I have with that is finding wheels that are the same weight as the factory z06 rims. I could get some aftermarket rims but it seems the only ones that are the same weight/lighter are going to cost me $3k + .
I was very particular about finding OEM Z06 wheels for my FRC because the repro C5Z06 rims were heavier.
I was very particular about finding OEM Z06 wheels for my FRC because the repro C5Z06 rims were heavier.
and to milan...please explain how the 345 won't out hook a 305? my posts are in reference to street driving.not track where prep is layed
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
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From: waldorf md
theres 3 good options IMO , Mt's is 27.5" tall, m&h is 28", amd bfg is 26"...there is however a set floating in the c5 fs section for right around 400 and theyre brand new...I chose m&h however for their height for my turbo car
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: St. Petersburg FL
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: St. Petersburg FL
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Safety Car
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From: Boise
Obviously if you have the same tire the 345 version will be a little better.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 308
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From: St. Petersburg FL
Still trying to understand.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
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From: waldorf md
haha ok you didn't specify that, when I look ast drag radials the only options are mt's and m&h...if they dont make it I wil change wheels
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: waldorf md
Another question on this.. Would this help acceleration from a roll and stop? Or only at the track? I understand the lower gear means you can go faster MPH through any given gear so your top speed is higher, but wouldn't you be going slower through those gears than if you had 3.73 or 4.10's for example?
Still trying to understand.
Still trying to understand.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 308
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From: St. Petersburg FL
in theory it slows acceleration but pulls more in the top end area...you would be in gear longer...example.when I was cam only my 17's with hoosiers(26") went 125mph in the 1/4 mile at 6400rpm...I switched to a 16" with 315/45's (27.2") I did the same mph but at 4200 rpm....in the street I could run a longer distance.now an fi application its not nearly as detrimental...boost pulls way harder than n/a...hence why you see people run low gears.3.42 is common for stick cars but an auto might drop back to a 3.15...low gear can help decrease wheel spin but mph's like a S.O.B....depends what it is you want, I'm not trying to be the fastest guy at the track, thats what ecs is here for.I have alot of friends with big single supras so I have to be able to pull the big end (if you've ever seen the texas mile street videos) I want to do 200 mph and thats just not gonna happen on a 26" tire and stock size gearing.it'd go into 6th gear and blow up most likely
I'm thinking of going w/ a fast 102 and 90mm tb (unless they make bigger) , but from what I was told those aren't very cost effective for FI applications because I won't see a huge gain for the price. Just looking at the the way my system is set up it visually looks restrictive from the MAF to the intake manifold.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: waldorf md
Okay good info! Thanks for all the answers I definitely have a good idea of what to do. At least I know that I can save money and don't necessarily need the 345's. I can put that into some other parts, just not sure what.
I'm thinking of going w/ a fast 102 and 90mm tb (unless they make bigger) , but from what I was told those aren't very cost effective for FI applications because I won't see a huge gain for the price. Just looking at the the way my system is set up it visually looks restrictive from the MAF to the intake manifold.
I'm thinking of going w/ a fast 102 and 90mm tb (unless they make bigger) , but from what I was told those aren't very cost effective for FI applications because I won't see a huge gain for the price. Just looking at the the way my system is set up it visually looks restrictive from the MAF to the intake manifold.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: St. Petersburg FL
Drifting
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From: Jersey Shore
jobberone
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Kailua Kona HI
Everything in the drivetrain is at risk. People run 500+ hp with stock drivetrains but they all eventually fail. You need a built transmission, hardened output shafts and maybe a beefed up diff.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 482
Likes: 1
From: waldorf md
dont forget main shaft...95% of the time those go they take the rear out too, I just got lucky
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 7,088
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From: Metro Detroit Michigan
A street car without hard dragstrip launches? Stock will probably be fine. I beat mine every way I could think of. When the clutch failed, I had a trans brace and hardened driver side output shaft put in while it was apart. Still beatin' it on the street... burnouts, power shifts with Nitto drag radials, bad wheel hop on occasion, and still 6 years without breakage, other than that one clutch.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: St. Petersburg FL
A street car without hard dragstrip launches? Stock will probably be fine. I beat mine every way I could think of. When the clutch failed, I had a trans brace and hardened driver side output shaft put in while it was apart. Still beatin' it on the street... burnouts, power shifts with Nitto drag radials, bad wheel hop on occasion, and still 6 years without breakage, other than that one clutch.