I think Callies rates their HP figures rather conservatively, too. I am in the middle of trying to piece the components of my LS2 build together. I really like the idea of the Ultra H-beam rod, but I have also considered the Compstar HD H-beam and the HD I-beams.

I think I am stuck on the DragonSlayer crankshaft, though. I want a 385ci LS2 and I think the DragonSlayer is the only 3.800" crankshaft Callies has other than the Magnum, but that is out of the question.

I look forward to your build

 

And a further question....What's the difference between the Dragonslayer and Magnum ?

I emailed Fraser at AES about some stuff a few days ago, and pretty sure he said there was a 5140 Callies C series crank in 3.825" ( and a nice affordable price too )

This appears to be a cheaper unit, so no idea just how good or bad it is. I'm sure power wont pose a problem to it, but I'd be concerned about running a large dedicated blower drive off the nose.

Ive been using the normal cheap Callies Compstar H beams and never had a problem. I just want something nicer for this build.

I was always of the impression H beams are stronger. But if price is an indicator, seems the I beams are more expensive.

 

From what I have read, Callies has discontinued the C-Series crankshaft. I can't say that it would ever be a problem, but my goal is ~1,000rwhp with my twin turbo setup. I think the Magnum would be extreme overkill for my application and the dragonslayer would be perfect for this build as I don't want it "on the edge of destruction". Callies has told me that the Ultra rods are made of better materials, have better bolts, and are made in the USA. That's really great and all, but I'm wondering if the less expensive HD H-beams (1,100HP) or the HD I-beams (1,500HP) would pose any sort of power or reliability issues. I would think not, but it's probably just a personal preference kind of deal.

I guess my biggest question is weather or not the Compstar crankshaft and HD H-beam rods can take 1,000rw and do so for a while. Granted, I have multiple boost settings so it would see 1,000rw very rarely. If I went with the Compstar stuff, I'd probably be able to swing a set of thick deck TFS heads and a good intake to top it off.

I think you have it reversed. I've always known the I-beams to be superior in strength when compared to the H-beams.

 

Given standard cranks have proven themselves reliable at silly power, I dont think it really is an issue.
Any of the aftermarket stuff should be stronger again. My only concern was a big blower drive hanging off the nose.
Other than that, I'd be happy to go with whatever.

I was quoted around $850 for the C-series, and $1500 for the Dragonslayer ( both balanced prices and in 3.825" )

Either the Howards I beams or Callies I beams look great and wont break the bank. Given my cheap H beam Compstars have taken years of abuse with no problems, I doubt rod strength is much of an issue. All available aftermarket rods are good enough.
I doubt going to a "billet" rod is really necessary, even if they look great.

Again, what is the difference between the Magnum and Dragonslayer ?

 

The Ultra H are actually rated for 1200. Details from Callies below. Stevie, the difference is in the material used, not the look. They still make Compstars and they're still made from relieved 4340.
With years of connecting rod design and machining experience, Callies would like to introduce the affordable (High Value) Ultra H-beam. Ultra H-beams are machined from extremely clean Timken steel, from start to finish in our Ohio facility. Current offerings include popular SBC, LSx and BBC applications. These rods are fastened with purpose built 260Ksi Ultra bolts, produced by ARP, specifically for Callies. Design, material and craftsmanship combined to make the rod capable of handling up to 1200hp. The Ultra H-beam is designed not only to be affordable, but also provide racers with many years of service and durability.

Michael, I agree with what you said about stroke and would like to add for those reading that the rings are closer to the fire in the higher stroke instances as well as the fact that the oil ring loses support and therefore it's ability to control oil. Not worth a few cubes for sure.

 

I am working on getting a drivetrain setup comparable to yours from Rick. How do you like the TR6060 and C6ZO6 diff. have you had any problems. What half shafts do you run.

 

Drove it in stock form for 2 years and I wasn't nice to it at all. Now I've got a built Quaife differential with DSS shafts. The half shafts are stock for now. That's the only thing I haven't upgraded in the drivetrain.

 

I think the stock crank is good to at least 1000 flywheel and is probably ok to 1400. Personally I'd use a forged crank over 1000 flywheel. Unless you're over 1400 I think any good forged crank works.

Any good H beam works unless you're going over 1000 IMO. Again personally I'd use a better rod if going over that.

 

even if you get a Callies crank, get it balanced.. mine was new...and was 16 grams out from them ...

 

It would need balanced to suit your other rotating parts anyway

 

When I ordered my new crank, we weighed all of the rotating parts and sent the weights to Callies. They used that to balance it.

 

I don't know many people making 1400. I don't know anyone running a LS motor with a stock crank anywhere near that. My problem with even trying it is: for as much money as it costs to go fast, I would feel like a total dumbass to try using a stock crank only to find out that it failed and took out the rest of my build. I'm sure you've heard the saying "The bitterness of poor quality is felt long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten"

 

That is a good saying Bret. I plan on running a Compstar or Dragonslayer so no worries on the crank. The engine will most likely be built by TSP and will have the full treatment. I plan on having the new engine and full drivetrain in my garage so I can pull the old engine, trans, driveshaft, and rear cradle and replace them with the new. Then trailer it to a tuner have it tuned put it back on the trailer take it home and go nuts. Sounds easy but we will see. I will start figuring things out tomorrow.

 

Oh, I agree. But they are good for 1000 flywheel and he said 800. So I'd use the stock crank. They don't fail at that HP. I know of 1200-1400 Camaros using the stock crank that haven't failed but again I wouldn't go there either. Failure is catastrophic and there is too much money in that kind of setup to screw around.

Again if he wants 800 then a good H beam rod is all he needs. With good bolts of course.

He doesn't need a LSX motor for 800 HP. That's just overkill. A good LS1/LS6 block will be fine if he stays below 18-19 lbs for the most part. I'm assuming he isn't going to thrash the car every day or weekend. If he's going to the track every weekend then he needs to go to the LSX or RHS block. If he's going to boost over 20 lbs consistently then he should go with the 6 bolt heads. If he is going for 1000RWHP then he should at least go to the LS2 or an iron block. Or the LSX/RHS esp for higher boost. The more power he wants the more consideration he should give for premium parts built for that goal.

He needs to set his goal then buy the parts that will live with how he's going to drive the car and how much boost he's going to run.

To the OP, the more power you seek the price will rise exponentially and the less of a street car you will have and the more race car you will build.

800 RWHP on the street is hard to use for the most part. You will spend much of your time feathering the pedal trying to keep some semblance of traction. Unless you spend more money on the supension yada to get a better setup. Again more money. Don't get caught up in a numbers game. If you're going for high top speeds then you can use all that power in a more practical manner. If you want a fast street car then 650-800 is not a bad goal.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Unless your in Texas