YSi & Block question
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Dayton Ohio
YSi & Block question
I am getting ready to purchase a 2002 ZO6 M6. The engine is bone stock with 60,000 miles on it. The owner bought the car new and is in his 60's so I am assuming the car has not been driven hard. He has invoices for all the work ever done on the car which has always been on time or early. The car is mint and you can barely tell it has been driven.
My question is I want to doing an engine build and purchase a A&A YSi kit. Along with the kit I am doing the CCP 10 rib pulley upgrade and the fixed belt tensioner. I would like to get some setup questions as far as the block and heads go. Like what block and heads would be best for this setup, what size block and heads to go with, etc etc. My budget for the rebuild is $20,000 and that includes drivetrain. I will be doing all the work myself. My goal is around 800rwhp with a nice amount of torque on a nice street tune.
Michael
My question is I want to doing an engine build and purchase a A&A YSi kit. Along with the kit I am doing the CCP 10 rib pulley upgrade and the fixed belt tensioner. I would like to get some setup questions as far as the block and heads go. Like what block and heads would be best for this setup, what size block and heads to go with, etc etc. My budget for the rebuild is $20,000 and that includes drivetrain. I will be doing all the work myself. My goal is around 800rwhp with a nice amount of torque on a nice street tune.
Michael
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Forney Texas
Any block, stock crank or better, stock rods won't cut it. Get at least some decent H-beams with ARP2000 bolts and Wiseco, Diamond or CP pistons. ARP 2000 head studs and you can get away with 800 all day long with a proper setup and tune.
I prefer bigger blocks because it takes less cylinder pressure to make the same torque.
I prefer bigger blocks because it takes less cylinder pressure to make the same torque.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
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From: cookeville tennessee
ttt
It will be hard doing all the work your self that is labor for the 20,k but 25,k yes...
New short block all forged from one of the good vendors in here at least a 402 CI. Then all the other parts that you need.... rOBERT
New short block all forged from one of the good vendors in here at least a 402 CI. Then all the other parts that you need.... rOBERT
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Dayton Ohio
Any block, stock crank or better, stock rods won't cut it. Get at least some decent H-beams with ARP2000 bolts and Wiseco, Diamond or CP pistons. ARP 2000 head studs and you can get away with 800 all day long with a proper setup and tune.
I prefer bigger blocks because it takes less cylinder pressure to make the same torque.
I prefer bigger blocks because it takes less cylinder pressure to make the same torque.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 37
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From: Dayton Ohio
I am planning on using my own machine shop and building the engine myself. The driveline I will just buy from a vendor and put in. I am not a tranny/diff expert but putting it in is straight forward. I am looking at 20k but if I need to go higher I will. I have some time before next spring.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29,063
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From: cookeville tennessee
I am planning on using my own machine shop and building the engine myself. The driveline I will just buy from a vendor and put in. I am not a tranny/diff expert but putting it in is straight forward. I am looking at 20k but if I need to go higher I will. I have some time before next spring.
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From: Dayton Ohio
I was actually looking to see what is good with the YSi. What block most run LS1,2,3,6,7,Q9,X, what block CID and head CC combo makes the most power/torque. I know more cubes equal more torque but what is best a LS1/6 383, LS2 402, LQ9 408, LS3 418, and anything above or in between. I have done alot of searching and alot say the LS3 has oiling issues and the LS7 walls are to thin and the LS6 is a great platform but is short on cubes. I will have a LS6 and not having to buy a new block would be a plus and staying away from an iron block will be even more of a plus for weight savings. I could darton m.i.d. sleeve my LS6 and get more cubes and stronger walls as another option. I guess what it comes down to is there are so many options and I am trying to choose the right one. I really like the 6 bolt per cylinder heads but would need a LS3 or 7. Hell is that even needed. Please don't say search because I have as I stated above.
Michael
Michael
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From: Dayton Ohio
If you do that like you are saying man and use the parts that bret has pointed out the YSI unit will do what you want. But lets just say this there is a ART on putting one of these motor together that really makes it work REALLY great. The trans and rear I agree I even did a c6 z06 cradle and all that swap out. But putting one of these motors together....
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Tech Contributor
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From: Forney Texas
I ran a LQ9 for a couple of years with great success. When I pulled my head gaskets last time, there was no sign of breaching the gaskets anywhere. Made 1021RWHP with that setup using Callies compstar crank and rods, Wiseco pistons and AFR heads with a LS2 intake.
Stepping up my game for the last and final time. Going to LSX block and 6-bolt heads.
Stepping up my game for the last and final time. Going to LSX block and 6-bolt heads.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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From: Dayton Ohio
I ran a LQ9 for a couple of years with great success. When I pulled my head gaskets last time, there was no sign of breaching the gaskets anywhere. Made 1021RWHP with that setup using Callies compstar crank and rods, Wiseco pistons and AFR heads with a LS2 intake.
Stepping up my game for the last and final time. Going to LSX block and 6-bolt heads.
Stepping up my game for the last and final time. Going to LSX block and 6-bolt heads.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
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From: Dayton Ohio
I was looking at the RHS block but it would be $2,000+ more. I am thinking about doing it right the first time and do the LSX block like Blue was talking about. I can go with my parts stated before and some LSX 6 bolt heads and forget about it until I reach 2000+ hp which I will never do. The 130 pounds won't mean much if I can make some serious power and I can try and save weight elsewhere.
Last edited by msebastianZO6; Sep 24, 2011 at 06:48 PM.
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Does everyone on here have a goal of spending two or three times as much $ as they need to?
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Forney Texas
Standard deck. Tall deck costs a lot more for the block and seems to really complicate the fitment of everything else. Turn up the boost to compensate for the added weight.
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From: Dayton Ohio
I am not looking at overspending but I want something strong and reliable that I can maybe expand on later. 800rwhp is more than enough for me but there is a certain feeling you get when you describe the engine and say it makes a 1000hp. I was messing with a guy at my local autozone a few years back. He asked me what kind of power it made and I could tell he did not know much about cars and I told him a little over a 1000. Well the guy was stunned and thought my little 500hp 02 Camaro was the greatest thing on earth.
Last edited by msebastianZO6; Sep 25, 2011 at 12:11 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Dayton Ohio
Calling Texas Speed on monday to discuss a 427 LSX. Options I have chose so far are -23 Diamond dish pistons with steel top ring, Callies I-beam rods, Callies Compstar crank, ARP main studs/head studs, 24x with LS2 conversion, 285cc 6-bolt LS7 heads with titanium intake and stainless exhaust, and cometic head gasket. I was thinking of going with the Dragonslayer crank and Oliver rods to be on the safe side but I will see what they say. Those two options will add $1,275 to the engine.
Thread Starter
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From: Dayton Ohio
I was just looking on e-bay and seeing what used ZO6 parts are going for and was suprised. I was not thinking about the fact that I can sell my LS6, 6 speed, and Diff. I was delighted to see that even if I sold these things at or under the average price I have the potential to make anywhere from 5-8K.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 10,924
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From: Forney Texas
Calling Texas Speed on monday to discuss a 427 LSX. Options I have chose so far are -23 Diamond dish pistons with steel top ring, Callies I-beam rods, Callies Compstar crank, ARP main studs/head studs, 24x with LS2 conversion, 285cc 6-bolt LS7 heads with titanium intake and stainless exhaust, and cometic head gasket. I was thinking of going with the Dragonslayer crank and Oliver rods to be on the safe side but I will see what they say. Those two options will add $1,275 to the engine.
The Callies Ultra Billet I-beam is what I'm rolling with. I respect the hell out of the Oliver and respect this one more. It's one sexy rod.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern Ireland
Ive two sets of Compstars here, and they are just the normal H-beam that everywhere sells from egay to top vendors, for all engines
One example
http://hinsonsupercars.com/s-882-connecting-rods.aspx
Have Callies changed the design of the Compstar, or are the images just wrong ? Or is it simply a different rod ?
I'm looking to change/upgrade soon, and their Ultra billets look great, but you can see the confusion from above.
I'm also looking to de-stroke to reduce torque, as on road tyres, it just helps with traction, and will have virtually no effect at all on usable power.
I think the 4.0" stroke is just too much for these engines as the liners just dont support the piston well enough when they are around BDC.
IMO build it with a 4.0" LS2 bore which leaves plenty of strength and a stroke below 4.0". I'm hopefully going for 3.825" when I source a crank.
Howards Rods also look very similar and are keenly priced ?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HR...-LS1/?rtype=10
Edit...
Seems there is a Compstar H beam and I beam. Virginal Speed have them side by side on the website. The H's are around $590 and the I beam $900
Is the I-beam their Ultra Billet, or is that a totally different rod ?
Last edited by stevieturbo; Sep 25, 2011 at 06:17 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Dayton Ohio
Have you noticed on a couple of websites selling Callies Rods, that when you view their normal Compstar rod at circa $600, they show a picture of a rod very similar to that ?
Ive two sets of Compstars here, and they are just the normal H-beam that everywhere sells from egay to top vendors, for all engines
One example
http://hinsonsupercars.com/s-882-connecting-rods.aspx
Have Callies changed the design of the Compstar, or are the images just wrong ? Or is it simply a different rod ?
I'm looking to change/upgrade soon, and their Ultra billets look great, but you can see the confusion from above.
I'm also looking to de-stroke to reduce torque, as on road tyres, it just helps with traction, and will have virtually no effect at all on usable power.
I think the 4.0" stroke is just too much for these engines as the liners just dont support the piston well enough when they are around BDC.
IMO build it with a 4.0" LS2 bore which leaves plenty of strength and a stroke below 4.0". I'm hopefully going for 3.825" when I source a crank.
Howards Rods also look very similar and are keenly priced ?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HR...-LS1/?rtype=10
Edit...
Seems there is a Compstar H beam and I beam. Virginal Speed have them side by side on the website. The H's are around $590 and the I beam $900
Is the I-beam their Ultra Billet, or is that a totally different rod ?
Ive two sets of Compstars here, and they are just the normal H-beam that everywhere sells from egay to top vendors, for all engines
One example
http://hinsonsupercars.com/s-882-connecting-rods.aspx
Have Callies changed the design of the Compstar, or are the images just wrong ? Or is it simply a different rod ?
I'm looking to change/upgrade soon, and their Ultra billets look great, but you can see the confusion from above.
I'm also looking to de-stroke to reduce torque, as on road tyres, it just helps with traction, and will have virtually no effect at all on usable power.
I think the 4.0" stroke is just too much for these engines as the liners just dont support the piston well enough when they are around BDC.
IMO build it with a 4.0" LS2 bore which leaves plenty of strength and a stroke below 4.0". I'm hopefully going for 3.825" when I source a crank.
Howards Rods also look very similar and are keenly priced ?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HR...-LS1/?rtype=10
Edit...
Seems there is a Compstar H beam and I beam. Virginal Speed have them side by side on the website. The H's are around $590 and the I beam $900
Is the I-beam their Ultra Billet, or is that a totally different rod ?
Actually it is anything over 4.00" stroke that you should stay away from if running N20 or FI on the LS1,2,3,6,7. Anything over a 4.00' stroke and the crown of the piston gets thinner. I will not have that problem with the LSX block since you can get such large cubes out of it and it is iron (482 ci max). I will still only be running a 4.00" stroke, 4.125" bore, and a 6.125" rod to get 427 cubes. Max stroke for the LSX block is 4.250" and max bore is 4.250" as well. Hope this helps.
Michael