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So I know we have all read plenty of "Miles on your motor and supercharger" or similar type of posts. My question and poll is simply, where does your motor stand after you got supercharged. I am very curious as to the results.
I chose to supercharge my stock bottom end car at 98k miles. after 6k it is still running strong @13lbs. of boost! I just got it dynotuned with the new exhaust, pushing 552 @ the wheels and I am confident it will last. I did about a 250 mile trip and got on it every chance I had and came up with a 22mpg average, so I feel it is a good combo. I did everything I could to stay safe though; I put meth on it, a liquid balancer, 8 rib setup, lockplate on stock cam, wideband failsafe and its just a street car. And I can say that I never fear to stand on it hard then drive it home, which is what I was going for in the beginning.
I chose to supercharge my stock bottom end car at 98k miles. after 6k it is still running strong @13lbs. of boost! I just got it dynotuned with the new exhaust, pushing 552 @ the wheels and I am confident it will last. I did about a 250 mile trip and got on it every chance I had and came up with a 22mpg average, so I feel it is a good combo. I did everything I could to stay safe though; I put meth on it, a liquid balancer, 8 rib setup, lockplate on stock cam, wideband failsafe and its just a street car. And I can say that I never fear to stand on it hard then drive it home, which is what I was going for in the beginning.
Cool what is a liquid balancer?
Lockplate on the stock cam? Is this similar to pinning or keying the cam?
What is a wideband failsafe?
Cool what is a liquid balancer?
Lockplate on the stock cam? Is this similar to pinning or keying the cam?
What is a wideband failsafe?
Liquid balancer has liquid in it to they say to bal it more when in high RPM. With a S/C in the car just put a good locktight on the cam bolt. w/b failsafe is wired into the wideband and if it falls below a set setting it will cut the motor. Also make sure you pin the crank also..Robert
True! the Tune has a TON to do with it. You can run 525-575 RWHP for a VERY VERY VERY long time on your stock motor. What it comes down to really is boost level and tune. If we do a build and we put it t 7-9 PSI ill tell my customer to drive it ANYWHERE and dont worry about it, when you start getting over 10 PSI your really pushing a stock motor. Not saying it wont last , but thats alot of boost on the motor that was not made to handle that much.
Cool what is a liquid balancer?
Lockplate on the stock cam? Is this similar to pinning or keying the cam?
What is a wideband failsafe?
I used a liquid balancer to prevent separation between the two parts of a stock balancer with the rubber in the middle. The Innovators West from ECS worked for me.
A lockplate is an idea I got from when I used to build the old SBC engines. Comp cams sells them for the LS series, you use it to hold the cam bolts in place to prevent a loose cam sprocket.
A wideband failsafe is a gauge from AEM that displays Boost/A-F ratio and data logs these as well as engine speed, this will give you a good idea if your tune is continuing to preform how it should.
Also I would like to add that I relocated my intake air temp sensor to the manifold and had my tuner make a meth fail setting in my tune based on IAT, this is a good idea if you run meth.
Liquid balancer has liquid in it to they say to bal it more when in high RPM. With a S/C in the car just put a good locktight on the cam bolt. w/b failsafe is wired into the wideband and if it falls below a set setting it will cut the motor. Also make sure you pin the crank also..Robert
Originally Posted by 86 vetter
I used a liquid balancer to prevent separation between the two parts of a stock balancer with the rubber in the middle. The Innovators West from ECS worked for me.
A lockplate is an idea I got from when I used to build the old SBC engines. Comp cams sells them for the LS series, you use it to hold the cam bolts in place to prevent a loose cam sprocket.
A wideband failsafe is a gauge from AEM that displays Boost/A-F ratio and data logs these as well as engine speed, this will give you a good idea if your tune is continuing to preform how it should.
Also I would like to add that I relocated my intake air temp sensor to the manifold and had my tuner make a meth fail setting in my tune based on IAT, this is a good idea if you run meth.
Blew up after about 2500 miles. Block cracked with 7 psi.
Wow....were you hard on it all the time? IE driving like you stole it and bringing it to 6500-7,000 rpms? No bashing you if you were just trying to learn more specifics for the failure.
Wow....were you hard on it all the time? IE driving like you stole it and bringing it to 6500-7,000 rpms? No bashing you if you were just trying to learn more specifics for the failure.
Nope. Completely stock engine. Just looks like bad luck. Block cracked, water got in the cylinder, broke the piston. 70,000 Mi on the engine. It was a zero drama failure. It just felt like it was missing a little bit at low rpm. I drove it from Mississippi to New Orleans at 70mph and it felt pretty normal. I was doing some ahem higher speed stuff in MS that day, though.
Last edited by Lloyd Christmas; Aug 10, 2012 at 04:34 PM.
Nope. Completely stock engine. Just looks like bad luck. Block cracked, water got in the cylinder, broke the piston. 70,000 Mi on the engine. It was a zero drama failure. It just felt like it was missing a little bit at low rpm. I drove it from Mississippi to New Orleans at 70mph and it felt pretty normal. I was doing some ahem higher speed stuff in MS that day, though.
thanks...you bought this car already with the charger on it and tuned right? IE...this might have been somebody else's doing and they knew it might be on the way out and sold it? Not sure if iam remembering this right.
True! the Tune has a TON to do with it. You can run 525-575 RWHP for a VERY VERY VERY long time on your stock motor. What it comes down to really is boost level and tune. If we do a build and we put it t 7-9 PSI ill tell my customer to drive it ANYWHERE and dont worry about it, when you start getting over 10 PSI your really pushing a stock motor. Not saying it wont last , but thats alot of boost on the motor that was not made to handle that much.
Thats right on the money what I was told when E.C.S installed a Novi 2000 in my car. 7-8psi 581 to the wheels and your run trouble free and it has been pass inspection no problem, sit in traffic in 95 degrees no issue 15k later I never look back.
Thats right on the money what I was told when E.C.S installed a Novi 2000 in my car. 7-8psi 581 to the wheels and your run trouble free and it has been pass inspection no problem, sit in traffic in 95 degrees no issue 15k later I never look back.
I'm running 572rwhp at 10lbs. Do you guys think I should ever be concerned?
thanks...you bought this car already with the charger on it and tuned right? IE...this might have been somebody else's doing and they knew it might be on the way out and sold it? Not sure if iam remembering this right.
Nope. This was about 2500 miles after we put the supercharger on and tuned it. I don't think it had anything to do with the tune. The other cylinders and pistons looked fine, no signs of detonation.