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boost LEAK TEST help

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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 06:34 PM
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Default boost LEAK TEST help

here is my set up


but i can only hear air seaping out of my brand new supercharger here..wtf


This is what my compressor is set on



1. is air supposed to seep out of the supercharger there ?
2. AM I DOING THIS RIGHT ??
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 07:52 PM
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you need to leave everything hooked up and pressurize the system through the super charger inlet. What you have going on there is going to do nothing to help you determine if anything is leaking.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 07:53 PM
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also go about 5-10 psi above your max boost you def dont want to be shooting 30 psi through it for no reason.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:14 PM
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If there's is air leaking at the volute that tells you there are no leaks from the intake pipe to the blower.

The air your hearing at the volute is coming from the holes that clock the volute-that's 100% normal. The holes go right into the scroll.

Another thing you should check is all the vacuum lines coming off the intake. Pull the line at the T-from the brake booster and use a mightyvac and put boost to the line.

This will verify there's no leaks at the meth map sensor, bov, etc, etc,,,

What problem are you having buddy?

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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by turbo402
you need to leave everything hooked up and pressurize the system through the super charger inlet. What you have going on there is going to do nothing to help you determine if anything is leaking.
ok so my pipes ect ect are all good. so now ill hook eveything back up (except the sc intake) and pressurize infront of the blower intake. gottcha
thanks
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Arun@CCP
If there's is air leaking at the volute that tells you there are no leaks from the intake pipe to the blower.

The air your hearing at the volute is coming from the holes that clock the volute-that's 100% normal. The holes go right into the scroll.

Another thing you should check is all the vacuum lines coming off the intake. Pull the line at the T-from the brake booster and use a mightyvac and put boost to the line.

This will verify there's no leaks at the meth map sensor, bov, etc, etc,,,

What problem are you having buddy?

not really have troubles, just want to make sure everything is right. ok tomorrow ill check all my "lines" like you said. thanks dude
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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I would recommend keeping the intake involved in the test too. The volute can actually leak a surprising amount through those little 1/4" holes. I prefer to put 1/4 x 20 set screws in there with blue loctite. That's a little something that I learned from 02402Ramair. On AJRothm's car, I had an unregulated 3/8" hose with 120psi in the compressor tank and I couldn't get it to register anything until I put the set screws in. Once you do that, then you can start evaluating the rest of the system for leaks.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT56
I would recommend keeping the intake involved in the test too. The volute can actually leak a surprising amount through those little 1/4" holes. I prefer to put 1/4 x 20 set screws in there with blue loctite. That's a little something that I learned from 02402Ramair. On AJRothm's car, I had an unregulated 3/8" hose with 120psi in the compressor tank and I couldn't get it to register anything until I put the set screws in. Once you do that, then you can start evaluating the rest of the system for leaks.
yes, i need the intake involved is this as well


im not pulling the supercharger back out of the car for the 50th time to install the screws in the volute. guess im going to bypass the blower all together. maybe cap the "blower exhaust" piping.

Last edited by Zeus-of-Boost; Nov 4, 2012 at 08:48 PM.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:49 PM
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So you guys are saying the un-used threaded clock screw holes go thru the volute & leak?

Interesting
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Zeus-of-Boost
yes, i need the intake involved is this as well


im not pulling the supercharger back out of the car for the 50th time to install the screws in the volute. guess im going to bypass the blower all together. maybe cap the "blower exhaust" piping.
I pulled the volute off and left the rest of the blower in place. Use a marker to mark the position of the volute so you don't have to guess exactly where you had it.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
So you guys are saying the un-used threaded clock screw holes go thru the volute & leak?

Interesting
Yes, but only on some of them. Alan's F1R they all went through. My F1X, none of them leaked. I'll check the F2 when it arrives soon.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT56
Yes, but only on some of them. Alan's F1R they all went through. My F1X, none of them leaked. I'll check the F2 when it arrives soon.
I thought the F1X was an F2, just re-named ??
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
I thought the F1X was an F2, just re-named ??
Not really. Shane is the only person that I know of that's run both and he gained some boost on the change. I am also getting a custom 4.5" intercooler, 2400CFM intercooler made. Gonna get some air to this motor of mine one way or another.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 4DRUSH
So you guys are saying the un-used threaded clock screw holes go thru the volute & leak?

Interesting
Not enought to make a difference-last thing you want is a set screw going into the volute. If you locktite them they are real hard to remove.

Just flatten the threads on the set screw so the only go in so far-they can back out-but not go in.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Arun@CCP
Not enought to make a difference-last thing you want is a set screw going into the volute. If you locktite them they are real hard to remove.

Just flatten the threads on the set screw so the only go in so far-they can back out-but not go in.
I see what you're saying. Maybe countersink the hole & use a flat head screw.
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