Where/how are you hiding your wires?
#21
Le Mans Master
in terms of relocating the other wires - i was thinking of using the bracket under the header to secure the wires too, hang them a little lower then the plug wires to avoid interference. Again, may do this later. Not sold on the idea yet, but love the look that you guy's have above.
I had an Optima red top for awhile, then it failed. I had it replaced under warranty, and it failed too. I put a platinum something or other from Advance Auto Parts in there and its been trouble free for 4 or 5 years now.
#22
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had a red top in the car for 7-8 years. Just swapped it last spring. Guess I need to research other options.
#23
Le Mans Master
Hey, it's possible I got two bad ones but I have read that several other people on here have had the same issue. I have read that if you keep a battery tender on it if you aren't going to be driving it for awhile they are fine, they just don't like to take a charge if they discharge too much. My Advance battery has been fine. I put a tender on it when I park it for the winter, but the rest of the year I don't even want to think about it.
Does anyone know what gauge of wire the alternator power wire is? I'm going to extend it and redo some wiring like you guys did, and run my evap canister off the brake booster hose so I can eliminate that ugly line running to the front.
Does anyone know what gauge of wire the alternator power wire is? I'm going to extend it and redo some wiring like you guys did, and run my evap canister off the brake booster hose so I can eliminate that ugly line running to the front.
#24
Le Mans Master
My coils are located in the Drivers fender inside the access panel, and behind the battery on the passenger side. Bought a do it your self small block chevy kit and re-used the connectors from the stock wires.
#25
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Not sure if others have attempted this.... Worth a try.
Shaved the bottom of intake, ls6 valley cover with ls1 steam lines, and running wires under the intake.
Shaved the bottom of intake, ls6 valley cover with ls1 steam lines, and running wires under the intake.
#26
Le Mans Master
I made some modifications to mine. I also got the Trick Flow coolant adapters, as I don't like having the rears blocked off. I ran a "T" fitting between them, and ran a coolant line up front and tied it in to the line that originally fed the throttle body. I left the stock crossover in place.
#27
Team Owner
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: cookeville tennessee
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Mike, I did mine the same way here with my fuel set up to hide the wiring under the feed line & return line with the black fuel line and A/N fittings.. Nice clean way of doing it... Robert
Last edited by robert miller; 03-25-2014 at 12:13 PM.
#28
Safety Car
Show offs
Custom made injector harness, coils relocated to the fenders, alternator wiring lengthened and ran UNDER the motor. Any wiring that was not needed (pollution stuff) was removed..
**NOTE**
Any wiring you relocate under the engine, make sure to put heat sleeving on it, the plastic loom will not protect the radiant header heat and it will toast the wires if they are attached to the cradle...
**NOTE**
Any wiring you relocate under the engine, make sure to put heat sleeving on it, the plastic loom will not protect the radiant header heat and it will toast the wires if they are attached to the cradle...
Here's a pic of mine during the last round of mods. I turned the injectors towards the elbow so I could better hide the wires. Alt wire and some other misc wires I ran at the back of the engine to hide them. I didn't loom the injector wiring, just fresh tape for ease of diag work if ever needed.
I also hid the coils in the fenders and ran each wire under the headers.
I also hid the coils in the fenders and ran each wire under the headers.
Thanks. All the emissions stuff and related wiring has been cut off the car and harness.
Here's a pic of the driver side. I don't have any showing were I ran the wiring though. The t/body, ect and alt. wire were run with the driver side injector harness. Power wire from the alt. was run down under the washer resi and along the fire wall to the battery. I extended the coil pack harnesses and also ran those along the fire wall.
Here's a pic of the driver side. I don't have any showing were I ran the wiring though. The t/body, ect and alt. wire were run with the driver side injector harness. Power wire from the alt. was run down under the washer resi and along the fire wall to the battery. I extended the coil pack harnesses and also ran those along the fire wall.
Thanks for the replies and pictures guys... giving me some good ideas of what i want.
What I was able to get accomplished was to relocate the coils, route the plug wires as I wanted (under headers) and get a 4" charge pipe on and went from a 3.85 to 3.7 pulley. I was right at 9.9lbs, not sure what the gains might be - need to schedule a retune.
I will certainly need a phase 2 in order to really get it where I want it... New valve covers, repaint stock rail, and relocate the additional wires, clean up alt bracket and alt, etc..
What I was able to get accomplished was to relocate the coils, route the plug wires as I wanted (under headers) and get a 4" charge pipe on and went from a 3.85 to 3.7 pulley. I was right at 9.9lbs, not sure what the gains might be - need to schedule a retune.
I will certainly need a phase 2 in order to really get it where I want it... New valve covers, repaint stock rail, and relocate the additional wires, clean up alt bracket and alt, etc..
#29
Melting Slicks
what do you guys do with the evap system?
#31
Le Mans Master
#32
Le Mans Master
Hide it. Use fuel line to extend the hose going from the neck on the intake manifold to the EVAP solenoid, and then from that use more hose to the hard line at the firewall. You can kind of see it in this picture, look at the hose just behind the throttle body on the drivers side:
From there, I ran the line forward, you can see it cross the upper coolant hose. I ran it underneath the windshield washer reservoir, and hid the solenoid down in there. Be careful though, don't put it on anything that touches the firewall (like the brake booster) because when it is running it oscillates and will make a ticking sound in the cabin. It took several months to figure that out, it drove me insane. Anyways, you will also need to extend the wiring to it. I wrapped the wire and the hose in either flexible braided hose covering, or braided split loom.
From there, I ran the line forward, you can see it cross the upper coolant hose. I ran it underneath the windshield washer reservoir, and hid the solenoid down in there. Be careful though, don't put it on anything that touches the firewall (like the brake booster) because when it is running it oscillates and will make a ticking sound in the cabin. It took several months to figure that out, it drove me insane. Anyways, you will also need to extend the wiring to it. I wrapped the wire and the hose in either flexible braided hose covering, or braided split loom.
#33
Tech Contributor
Great idea! Let us know how it works out.
#34
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Hide it. Use fuel line to extend the hose going from the neck on the intake manifold to the EVAP solenoid, and then from that use more hose to the hard line at the firewall. You can kind of see it in this picture, look at the hose just behind the throttle body on the drivers side:
From there, I ran the line forward, you can see it cross the upper coolant hose. I ran it underneath the windshield washer reservoir, and hid the solenoid down in there. Be careful though, don't put it on anything that touches the firewall (like the brake booster) because when it is running it oscillates and will make a ticking sound in the cabin. It took several months to figure that out, it drove me insane. Anyways, you will also need to extend the wiring to it. I wrapped the wire and the hose in either flexible braided hose covering, or braided split loom.
From there, I ran the line forward, you can see it cross the upper coolant hose. I ran it underneath the windshield washer reservoir, and hid the solenoid down in there. Be careful though, don't put it on anything that touches the firewall (like the brake booster) because when it is running it oscillates and will make a ticking sound in the cabin. It took several months to figure that out, it drove me insane. Anyways, you will also need to extend the wiring to it. I wrapped the wire and the hose in either flexible braided hose covering, or braided split loom.
getting anxious to get it back on the road... might wait to relocate the power line, as i think i will run it under the header, just need to sort it later I think.
Mike04's is the look i am after, it'll be close... think the rails will be next on my list, i like the 'stock' look of the 97/8 rails, but not really fitting in with the 'cleaning up' of the engine bay.
#36
Melting Slicks
great info!!
#37
Le Mans Master
I've been debating what to do with the evap... the only wires i havent relocated/hid at this point are the evap and power line to alt. The IAT, MAF and TB are all under intake..
getting anxious to get it back on the road... might wait to relocate the power line, as i think i will run it under the header, just need to sort it later I think.
Mike04's is the look i am after, it'll be close... think the rails will be next on my list, i like the 'stock' look of the 97/8 rails, but not really fitting in with the 'cleaning up' of the engine bay.
getting anxious to get it back on the road... might wait to relocate the power line, as i think i will run it under the header, just need to sort it later I think.
Mike04's is the look i am after, it'll be close... think the rails will be next on my list, i like the 'stock' look of the 97/8 rails, but not really fitting in with the 'cleaning up' of the engine bay.
#38
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Not 100% where I wanted to be with it, but needed to get it back on the road!
Would like to paint rad cover black, maybe get new polished intake tube.... Phase 3 I guess.3
Would like to paint rad cover black, maybe get new polished intake tube.... Phase 3 I guess.3
#39
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have my plug wires there now, think there would be any interference? Or not to worry with the shielded msd wires?
#40
Le Mans Master
No, the evap solenoid and lines. I want to move the alternator wire, but I decided it's too much work to pull everything back apart, cut all the tiny zip ties, re-wrap everything, etc. Next time I actually have a reason to take things apart I'll give it a crack, or maybe late next fall when I put it away for the winter.