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ECS Alky Control Problem

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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:01 PM
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Default ECS Alky Control Problem

I have an ECS Alky Control Super Pump on my car. The issue I'm having is, sometimes when I turn the controller on, it works, sometimes not and to add to that when I turn it on and it does work, the LED doesn't go green after 5lbs of boost @ WOT like it's suppose to. I am going to pull the vacuum line and fake boost with a mity vac tomorrow and see if the nozzle is actually spraying and my LED is just not switching but I have a real good feeling it's not spraying.

Has anyone had this problem before with one of these kits?
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by nasty98vette
I have an ECS Alky Control Super Pump on my car. The issue I'm having is, sometimes when I turn the controller on, it works, sometimes not and to add to that when I turn it on and it does work, the LED doesn't go green after 5lbs of boost @ WOT like it's suppose to. I am going to pull the vacuum line and fake boost with a mity vac tomorrow and see if the nozzle is actually spraying and my LED is just not switching but I have a real good feeling it's not spraying.

Has anyone had this problem before with one of these kits?
1st how old is this pump, 2nd does it have the rubber on the pump. 3rd why do you have it turned off for, I have mine on all the time it dont use that much meth.

Last edited by robert miller; Oct 6, 2013 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:10 PM
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.....
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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:11 PM
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I had a problem where the alky pressure was not consistent. Ended up being a bad vacuum connector. Had a slight vacuum leak.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 09:02 AM
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I had this same problem, light would go red but not green. Ended up needing the pump to be re-built, but it was a few years old and it was explained to me that when you run 100% meth - the internals will take a beating and will need a rebuild every once and a while as part of regular maintenance.

Give Julio a call.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 09:38 AM
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If your pump is 2 years old or older, pull it and send it to Julio for a rebuild, $80 and you will have piece of mind!
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:29 PM
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I'm assuming the pump is at least two years old. Is there any number on it anywhere like a serial number that would give me that info? I bought the car already set up so I'm not sure exactly how old everything is.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by nasty98vette
I'm assuming the pump is at least two years old. Is there any number on it anywhere like a serial number that would give me that info? I bought the car already set up so I'm not sure exactly how old everything is.
Don't assume! Send the pump in and have it checked over.

Spend $80 now or thousands later for a new motor!
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:33 PM
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Does anyone have Julio's contact info?
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by nasty98vette
Does anyone have Julio's contact info?
http://www.alkycontrol.com
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 12:51 PM
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They way we test the system here is with regulated air pressure and a gauge, remove the nozzle from the charge pipe and you can make sure the pump is flowing properly, where it is set up at etc etc, without having to go WOT to test it.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
They way we test the system here is with regulated air pressure and a gauge, remove the nozzle from the charge pipe and you can make sure the pump is flowing properly, where it is set up at etc etc, without having to go WOT to test it.
Thanks for the reply, Doug. I plan to test mine the same way tonight. The car is for sale right now, that being said I would rather have it working partially and have to explain it may need a rebuild than not on the car at all when a potential buyer shows up to buy the car. I also think it may be due to a pinched wire that has an extreme bend in it at the connector. I'll address everything tonight and go from there. Does anyone have experience with how long Julio takes to get these done?
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by nasty98vette
Thanks for the reply, Doug. I plan to test mine the same way tonight. The car is for sale right now, that being said I would rather have it working partially and have to explain it may need a rebuild than not on the car at all when a potential buyer shows up to buy the car. I also think it may be due to a pinched wire that has an extreme bend in it at the connector. I'll address everything tonight and go from there. Does anyone have experience with how long Julio takes to get these done?
Shipped out Monday, back in the car on Friday!
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Blitzkrieg
Shipped out Monday, back in the car on Friday!
Awesome! If all test fail, i'll get it shipped out to him. Thanks for all the insight, I really appreciate it.
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Old Oct 7, 2013 | 11:14 PM
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I messed around with it a little bit tonight with the little time that I had. One thing I noticed is when I turn the controller on and the pump doesn't come on, I hear a tick or click noise from under the dash (sounds like a relay clicking). When I turn the controller on and the pump does come on, I don't hear a click or tick sound. I'm wondering if I don't have a loose wire or something of that nature somewhere. I'm not super familiar with how these are powered etc but I would like to run through everything possible before I send the pump off for a week just to get it back and be in the same boat I am now.

Once again, thanks for all the info.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 09:12 AM
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My tuner has mine set on 3. When I hit the test button the light goes red and never turns green. At idle the car flutters when the button is hit so it is spraying. If I turn the **** up to 6 and hit the test button the light goes red then green. I just figured you could not get the test light to go green on a lower number setting. Sorry for the rant. Hope this helps.
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Old Oct 9, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nasty98vette
I messed around with it a little bit tonight with the little time that I had. One thing I noticed is when I turn the controller on and the pump doesn't come on, I hear a tick or click noise from under the dash (sounds like a relay clicking). When I turn the controller on and the pump does come on, I don't hear a click or tick sound. I'm wondering if I don't have a loose wire or something of that nature somewhere. I'm not super familiar with how these are powered etc but I would like to run through everything possible before I send the pump off for a week just to get it back and be in the same boat I am now.

Once again, thanks for all the info.
The pump is only supposed to come on under 2 conditions. 1) You push the test button, 2) You go over the turn on set point.
The click is normal as the relay in the box gets ground from the pump.

This is the procedure. Place gain **** on 8, start engine and push and hold the test button. LED should go red then green on a single nozzle kit. Not on a twin nozzle. Motor should stumble as well. Voltage is only sent to run the pump when system comes on(refer to 1st paragraph above). You should see 3.8-4.0 volts across red/black pump wires with test button pushed. With 3.8-4.0 volts applied to motor, pump should develop enough pressure to make the led change red to green. If you have the voltage and no green led.. pump has an issue or you have a leak on the lines.. Example.. pull hose from nozzle, it will never go green as it cant make pressure. Which is why twin nozzle setups dont go green under test as there is too much office with only 4v applied.

HTH
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