So I got a monster level 2 clutch installed in my 99FRC broke it in properly and everything. The clutch is rated for 550whp and my car was dyno'd at 521whp and 490tq after the A&A kit install. Now my car will not go into reverse. I can turn the car off and it goes into reverse without any issues, but if it is on and try putting in in reverse it won't go. Could it be that the carbon clutch is to hot and is sticking? It goes in every other gear perfectly fine

 

Jack up the car in the rear so that the rear wheels are off the ground. Put it in reverse or 1st gear and start the car. Keep the clutch in. If the wheels are turning, you have a problem. I've seen problems with Monster clutches transferring friction material to the pressure plate and flywheel, causing dragging and seen it enough to stay away from them. Hopefully that's not the case for you and it's just your reverse lockout solenoid came unplugged or is defective.

 

Did you connect the ground back up in the rear drivers side fender well? Or is the connection shotty? This is the ground for the reverse lockout. Ask me how I know....

 

I had a stage 3. It released fully, but chattered so bad it was embarrassing to take off. I hated it from day one.

 

It's the clutch. Buddy of mine had a monster stage 3 that stuck a bit. The day he sold his car the friction disc fell apart driving in traffic. Needless to say he lost some money because of it.

 

Mine chatters so much, can't stand it. Gonna take it to the shop that I got it installed and get a new one. There goes my Christmas money!

 

It was fine for the first couple days, guess it doesn't like the supercharger.

 

Well all my sensor lights came on and a bunch of other stuff, saying to reduce engine power and stuff. So I'll clean up all the grounds tomorrow probably.

 

Oh god I don't need this happening to me! Time for a new clutch probably. Not going with monster again.

 

If you plan to stay under 700 rwhp and are in a budget get the ACT GM 9 hdss. No issues in my heads cam GTO or 600rwhp Z06. Lil stuffer than stock but good positive feel. If you have $700+ to spend get a McLeod, Act, or other high rated twin disk.

Best of luck man. Went through 3 clutches in my GTO in past.
Stock one couldn't handle power as expected then had a stage 2 Southbend that free revved in 1st when I tried to launch at track.... That smelled awesome. Then the company helped me on a super cheap deal for a stage 3 upgrade... Well pressure plate cracked on that and caused all kinds of annoying issues... I chucked it up and got an ACT and it's taken a beating for years. I put one in my Z06 as well this past march and it hasn't missed a beat. I've had radials on it but not launched it at track. I'd be more worried about other drive line components.

 

take the shifter boot off and make sure you tightened the torx head bolt that attaches the linkage down tight ! Seen this one 2 times now

 

Yea the stage 3 is chatter ***** makes you think you don't know how to drive a stick!

 

Does that specific monster need to be shimmed behind the slave? If so this would cause that, I had a ram twin disc do the same thing.

 

This!

 

I don't agree that'll cause this problem. The stock slave has a max stroke of .9" before it pukes out the TOB. Although they tell you to check the distance, the stock master should stroke the slave .400", so if you're anything less that .450", it should work. Not recommended, but should work. Now where your TOB sits in relation to your pressure plate fingers is automatically adjusted. That's part of the design of the system. An air bubble in the system might cause it because the air is compressible, thereby reducing the stroke yield when you press the pedal, but even though the slave strokes .400", it's typical and reasonable to expect a clutch to release within .250" of stroke.

 

Shouldn't have to shim the monster. It's designed to work with a stock flywheel.

 

Many things in this thread are a bit amusing, however, to the OP - if the car will go into all other gears fine except reverse then it's a reverse lockout problem. The clutch doesn't select what gear it will or will not go into. Chattering shouldn't occur with a level 2. Before getting into a bunch of b.s. with he said-she said crap on a forum contact us directly.

As far as chatter, many things can cause that, installation, driving habits, break in procedures are just to name a few. If you've got an issue with your Monster contacting us is the first thing you should do.

As far as friction sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate, this is caused from excessive heat build up which will happen to ANY clutch that is being introduced to that much heat. To say our clutches are crap because of that is a bit off and one-sided.

We set up and test every clutch before it leaves to eliminate any release issues. God knows the GM hydraulics are terrible and things do happen, that isn't the clutches fault - regardless of manufacturer.

I've had C5's and C6's into the 9's on singles, we've had customers go 1.2x 60's on our twins and go well into the 8's. This isn't something we're just throwing together and hoping for things to happen, clutches are our passion. If you have an issue contacting us is the first thing you should do. The Level 2 specifically has gone 1.4x 60's and went high 10's.

 

Bam ^

 

That's one way of putting it...

I don't mind guys coming on here and saying negative things about us, it's a reality that you cannot make everyone happy. However, I think the thread should be kept on topic and if you have nothing productive to add then don't.

That's my $.02 as the owner of Monster Clutch Co. and I would agree wholeheartedly with Chris's (PRE-Z06) response.

Bottom line guys, if you're having an issue with ANY part, the first thing that should happen is you get a hold of the manufacturer - that's not just for my clutches, that's a rule of thumb in general.

 

Here's an example of another brand clutch that was introduced to too much heat...
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...k-engaged.html