building block
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: Hercules CA
building block
wanted to get the forums opinion on which direction to go with my engine build/upgrade. a little info on my car... its a 98 coupe with 95k miles 6sp daily driven with a small cam and ls6 heads. power level currently @ 396rwhp 386tq. dont get me wrong Im happy where the power is at in the car its a torque monster but like anyone else I want MORE ! that being said I am looking in to boosting the car within the next year or so. given the miles my car has I know that bottom end should be upgraded or worked on to make the motor last, my question is would my current block last if internals were swapped for forged and or if bored and boosted? what would be wiser to do:
A) Forge internals on current ls1 THEN boost?
B) Bore ls1 with forged internals and stay N/A
C) Bore ls1 with forged internals and eventually B o o s t
D) find a used iron/alu block [lq4/9, ls2] with forged internal and boost
E) look for a built bottom end made for boost
ultimately I would like to be mid 700rwhp range when all is said and done. Im trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start investing towards my next mod so it would really help to see everyones input on this.. which way would YOU go and which direction do you think would be most cost effective? Thanks in advance
A) Forge internals on current ls1 THEN boost?
B) Bore ls1 with forged internals and stay N/A
C) Bore ls1 with forged internals and eventually B o o s t
D) find a used iron/alu block [lq4/9, ls2] with forged internal and boost
E) look for a built bottom end made for boost
ultimately I would like to be mid 700rwhp range when all is said and done. Im trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start investing towards my next mod so it would really help to see everyones input on this.. which way would YOU go and which direction do you think would be most cost effective? Thanks in advance
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 3
From: Simi Valley CA
Slap on the S/C first, 95K miles in nothing for an LS motor if it's maintained properly. My company Chevy truck has 200K miles on the iron 6.0 and still runs like a champ, and it carries pallets of tile and slabs all day. Run your LS1 at 8 psi and enjoy the power for now.
Then, start to plan for a forged motor. My car has been boosted for 6 years now and still tickin. I'm slowly gathering parts for a forged LS2 build.
Of course all of this is null if you have fat pockets you can just build a forged motor w/ blower and drop all that in together. Do it in stages so you learn the power then step up. You will always want more power later.
Good luck
Then, start to plan for a forged motor. My car has been boosted for 6 years now and still tickin. I'm slowly gathering parts for a forged LS2 build.
Of course all of this is null if you have fat pockets you can just build a forged motor w/ blower and drop all that in together. Do it in stages so you learn the power then step up. You will always want more power later.
Good luck
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: Hercules CA
Slap on the S/C first, 95K miles in nothing for an LS motor if it's maintained properly. My company Chevy truck has 200K miles on the iron 6.0 and still runs like a champ, and it carries pallets of tile and slabs all day. Run your LS1 at 8 psi and enjoy the power for now.
Then, start to plan for a forged motor. My car has been boosted for 6 years now and still tickin. I'm slowly gathering parts for a forged LS2 build.
Of course all of this is null if you have fat pockets you can just build a forged motor w/ blower and drop all that in together. Do it in stages so you learn the power then step up. You will always want more power later.
Good luck
Then, start to plan for a forged motor. My car has been boosted for 6 years now and still tickin. I'm slowly gathering parts for a forged LS2 build.
Of course all of this is null if you have fat pockets you can just build a forged motor w/ blower and drop all that in together. Do it in stages so you learn the power then step up. You will always want more power later.
Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,786
Likes: 6
From: Lafayette Colorado
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: Hercules CA
i know for sure when and if i decide to install a blower prior to bottom upgrade I would do a clutch upgrade along with a meth kit and a trans brace for some insurance, just hoping that my 100k block will hold
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
At first it seems like throwing some rods and pistons in your motor would be the cheapest route but with all the machine work involved, balancing your crank to the new pistons/rods, etc. I think you'll find it's better to buy a built short block and perhaps selling yours.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: Hercules CA
At first it seems like throwing some rods and pistons in your motor would be the cheapest route but with all the machine work involved, balancing your crank to the new pistons/rods, etc. I think you'll find it's better to buy a built short block and perhaps selling yours.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 8,472
Likes: 38
From: Houston TX
St. Jude Donor '11
Thne price out similar pistons, rods, crank, bearings, main studs, and call some machine shops to find out how much individual things cost like line hone (or check), bore, hone, deck, clean, crank balancing, main and rod clearance checking, ring filing, and you can crunch numbers on building yours, buying a new block and rotating assmbly, or an assembled short block.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 56
From: Houston Texas
TSP is a good place to look for short blocks, if nothing else to build different blocks with different components and see what it runs.
Thne price out similar pistons, rods, crank, bearings, main studs, and call some machine shops to find out how much individual things cost like line hone (or check), bore, hone, deck, clean, crank balancing, main and rod clearance checking, ring filing, and you can crunch numbers on building yours, buying a new block and rotating assmbly, or an assembled short block.
Thne price out similar pistons, rods, crank, bearings, main studs, and call some machine shops to find out how much individual things cost like line hone (or check), bore, hone, deck, clean, crank balancing, main and rod clearance checking, ring filing, and you can crunch numbers on building yours, buying a new block and rotating assmbly, or an assembled short block.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,797
Likes: 52
From: Boise
Thne price out similar pistons, rods, crank, bearings, main studs, and call some machine shops to find out how much individual things cost like line hone (or check), bore, hone, deck, clean, crank balancing, main and rod clearance checking, ring filing, and you can crunch numbers on building yours, buying a new block and rotating assmbly, or an assembled short block.
First thing OP needs to do is pick a power goal. Too many people on here spend $$$ to build their motor for 1200 hp when their drivetrain and fuel system can only support 800 hp.
Something to consider.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: Hercules CA
If you don't go to ARP mains you won't need to do a line hone. It can definitely be cheaper to have your block built, it all depends on how much down time you are okay with. First thing OP needs to do is pick a power goal. Too many people on here spend $$$ to build their motor for 1200 hp when their drivetrain and fuel system can only support 800 hp. Something to consider.
