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Just order a nitrous express plate kit for my 01 z06. Car currently has a mild cam and header set up making 411 rwhp. I ordered the kit along with a window switch, purge kit, and bottle pressure gauge. This is not a car that will see a lot if any track time, but figured it would be fun to have a little extra kick. I plan on spraying a 50 at first until I get a feel for the nitrous and some new tires to hold more power. Any suggestions or advice? This will be my first nitrous setup, but it seems like most guys out here love it!
I just installed the NX kit on my 01 Z06 as well.... Pressure gauge, window switch is a must... purge is a great idea as well. I also added a stand alone fuel cell, Ligenfelter retard box, Leash Electronics Progressive controller.... I am running a 150 shot and it's AWESOME!!! IMO you won't even feel a 50 shot and it's not really worth it.... It's all in the tune... w/o the LNC2000 you will lose NA HP..... Just something to think about.
Mine is a built (forged) 414ci stroker... I am making 688/716 @ the wheels... Go to the FI/Nitrous section... those guys are the experts... good luck.
Definitely get a nos window switch/tps, and I agree a 50 shot isn't worth it, start with 100, most guys don't even tune for 100 but over that the LNC 2000 is a very nice piece to adjust timing on the fly
As mentioned consider a good controller with a window switch. I personally run the FJO Controller, but it is no longer made. You will also need to consider where you will mount your switches. BeerC5 on this forum makes really nice custom switch panels to fit the ashtray. I think Nitrous outlet does as well. Additionally, you may want to consider a bottle heater. For gauges I like Dynotune as they are not too pricey.
As for wiring, in the passenger footwell you can find a 12v switch, constant and a ground to use. To get to the engine compartment above that fuse panel in the floor is the pass through.
Thanks for all the responses. I already have the nx switch panel which works the same way by replacing the ashtray. What's the best route for wiring a window switch to the tach signal? I've seen the Aqua colored wire off the coil pack connector and also a white wire at the pcm. Any thoughts on what's best or easier? I know you would utilize the blue wire going to the throttle body for the tps signal. Also, what's the best route for running the wiring and nitrous lines through the firewall? I haven't actually looked at how to run that yet, but I'm assuming there may be an unused hole in the firewall you could run them through?
There's a hole in the fire wall just above the passenger footwell, and a ground location next to it in front of the door once u pop off the trim. Also another ground behind the passenger seat next to the seat belt, again u need to pop off the trim to see it. And use an add -a- circuit for the 12v switched source.
Thanks for all the responses. I already have the nx switch panel which works the same way by replacing the ashtray. What's the best route for wiring a window switch to the tach signal? I've seen the Aqua colored wire off the coil pack connector and also a white wire at the pcm. Any thoughts on what's best or easier? I know you would utilize the blue wire going to the throttle body for the tps signal. Also, what's the best route for running the wiring and nitrous lines through the firewall? I haven't actually looked at how to run that yet, but I'm assuming there may be an unused hole in the firewall you could run them through?
I mounted my controller in the glove box and tapped the PCM for my tach signal. The PCM is easy to reach by just removing the passenger inner fender splash panel. As for a whole, I routed everything through the factory hole in the passenger side of the car behind and below the battery.
I'm running the tr6 plug and don't plan on changing with the nitrous. I will not go above a 100 shot though. I do also have a cam and headers on my car though
How r u guys wiring your accessories? I see that most r running the add a circuit fuse in fuse slot 22 to the arming switch. It looks like u would plug all your accessories to the middle prong in the arming switch? I have their purge, nitrous system relay, and a tps/rpm window switch
How r u guys wiring your accessories? I see that most r running the add a circuit fuse in fuse slot 22 to the arming switch. It looks like u would plug all your accessories to the middle prong in the arming switch? I have their purge, nitrous system relay, and a tps/rpm window switch
I used this as a guide, I wired my heater separately tho so I could cruise around with the heater on on not have to arm the nitrous/ lnc2000. ..I also have the LNC 2000 wired to the arming switch so the timing is corrected only when armed
I too am running the TR6's.... Also have a stand alone fuel cell w leaded (120octane) Race Fuel.... A can of torco is always nice too..
U think 150 off the rail would be too much for tr6's? I'm only running a 100 shot and would like to up that naturally lol, sorry for all the thread hijacking but a lot if good info in here for the few nitrous guys on this forum
These are great plugs as well.... Have a couple of my Nitrous "Vette" buds running these in theirs.... Cannot go wrong w either...
The diff between the 100-150 is so so..... I am planning on jumping up to the 200 pill ( built forged 414ci) along with AR 1 7/8 headers... the LG 1 3/4 seem to be choking the car up top..... May sacrifice some NA TQ.... But the Nitrous will come alive in the upper RPM's...
How r u guys wiring your accessories? I see that most r running the add a circuit fuse in fuse slot 22 to the arming switch. It looks like u would plug all your accessories to the middle prong in the arming switch? I have their purge, nitrous system relay, and a tps/rpm window switch
I ran most of my power wires from the post on the fuse panel. I just put an inline fuse holder in the wiring. I also tapped anything that needed a 12V switched source from the 3 wires in the foot well by that fuse panel.
As for plugs, Tr6 may work for you, but you may need to switch to a colder plug with your mods. I run the NGK 5238 (R5671A-9). I make over 500 on motor and have a 200 shot added to that.
We recommend never running a TR-6 plug, and the reason why, is it could cause a misfire. This happens because the ground strap practically becomes a glow plug, because it cannot dissipate all the extra heat when you are on the spray. The way you counter this, is by going with a non-projected tip plug which in turn helps shorten the path for all the heat being absorbed by the ground strap.
We recommend running a BR7EF plug in most of the LS cars running a 150hp jet. Just remember their is no "set rule", as every vehicle is different. Where one guy might be on a 7 heat range plug for a 150 jet, when another could be on an 8, as one motor will respond differently than another and so on.
Just please do not run a TR-6 and cause thousands of dollars of damage over $20.00 of spark plugs.