Clamp Strength
Thread Starter
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: CT
Clamp Strength
How firmly should I sock down the clamps on the various blower tubes?
"Hand strength" for me is more than for most. Reformed farm boy turned executive.
Most of the clamps I have are constant pressure types and pretty stoutly assembled. My concern is raised about one in particular which connects the intake/filter assembly to the connecting tube at the front of the blower. This one I tightened and "medium" and I felt it jump a thread. Inlet remains secure. Clamp still tightens connecting tube tighter than wide lip on the inlet.
Because this is a non-boost location, I figure it doesn't need to be wickedly snug. This being my first boosted application, I'm turning to the forum with this dumb question: is it ok as is, or should I replace it?
"Hand strength" for me is more than for most. Reformed farm boy turned executive.
Most of the clamps I have are constant pressure types and pretty stoutly assembled. My concern is raised about one in particular which connects the intake/filter assembly to the connecting tube at the front of the blower. This one I tightened and "medium" and I felt it jump a thread. Inlet remains secure. Clamp still tightens connecting tube tighter than wide lip on the inlet.
Because this is a non-boost location, I figure it doesn't need to be wickedly snug. This being my first boosted application, I'm turning to the forum with this dumb question: is it ok as is, or should I replace it?
Last edited by Tusc; Feb 15, 2016 at 03:49 PM.
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From: Forney TX
The clamp in the picture isn't a constant tension clamp. The clamps with the larger bolt heads in your kit will be. They can take a lot more torque before stripping out. You can often repair the stripped out clamps by putting the band on a flat surface and lightly tapping the defective area with a hammer. If you choose to replace it, go to the plumbing supply section of your local hardware store. They have some nice stainless ones that cost much less than the ones at the auto parts stores.
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Offering products from A&A Superchargers, East Coast Superchargers, Mechman Alternators, Mantic clutches, RPS clutches, Kooks Headers, Lakewood, LG, Brian Tooley Racing, Comp Cams, FAST, ARP, UPP Turbo systems, Wiseco, Callies, K1, MAST Motorsports, Haltech and many more. PM me for details.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06@RKT Performance; Feb 15, 2016 at 04:21 PM.
Melting Slicks
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I wouldn't worry about the clamp on your inlet in the pic above, as long as it's snug you're fine... as you already pointed out it will never be pressurized so it shouldn't pop off... now all the rest of the pipes you should be using T-bolt or constant tension clamps and they need to be pretty darn tight in order to keep the plumbing from popping off... most of the metal tubing should have a rolled edge (with the exception of the tube at the throttle body end) and just make sure your clamps are on the other side of that lip and pretty tight and you should be alright
Thread Starter
Running Guns & Moonshine
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: CT
Good to know!
I have a worm clamp connecting the initial tube down from the head unit. I'll change that out. Have a few T-bolts I can throw at it. I have an older style AA kit which passes a 21" metal tube across behind the radiator support. That one has at each connection one worm and one constant pressure. I'll swap all the worm pieces out.
As for lips, I believe all connections on this kit as I have it have lips at either end. (That sounded dirty!
) IC, elbow, maf housing and tb.
I have a worm clamp connecting the initial tube down from the head unit. I'll change that out. Have a few T-bolts I can throw at it. I have an older style AA kit which passes a 21" metal tube across behind the radiator support. That one has at each connection one worm and one constant pressure. I'll swap all the worm pieces out.
As for lips, I believe all connections on this kit as I have it have lips at either end. (That sounded dirty!
) IC, elbow, maf housing and tb.
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From: Forney TX
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern Ireland
This style is best if you actually need T-Bold style clamps. DO not use those with bulky bands or those with separate pieces covering the divider area of the open section.
That said, I use the Breeze constant torque type clamps for my larger pipe from IC to TB and cheap *** worm drive clamps for my 2.5" pipes. No issues here to 30psi boost.
If the pipe prep and bead around the pipes are good, cheap clamps will work
One big flaw with T-Bolt etc...is sometimes people just tighten the things far too much and the clamps are so strong they then crush the alloy pipe underneath and **** the whole thing up.
I even seen a car once where the owner had deformed stainless pipes from overtightening the clamps !!
That said, I use the Breeze constant torque type clamps for my larger pipe from IC to TB and cheap *** worm drive clamps for my 2.5" pipes. No issues here to 30psi boost.
If the pipe prep and bead around the pipes are good, cheap clamps will work
One big flaw with T-Bolt etc...is sometimes people just tighten the things far too much and the clamps are so strong they then crush the alloy pipe underneath and **** the whole thing up.
I even seen a car once where the owner had deformed stainless pipes from overtightening the clamps !!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: East Coast fl
worm gear<T-bolt any day. Any day. It looks like a finished piece...vs some **** you bought at home depot. 
(I am familiar with constant tension clamps since like 2006).
Avoid newbisims by applying a small amount of anti seize on threads of Tbolts and Vbands and simply don't over tighten..
And WORM GEARs...are NOT designed for silicone...regardless of suction/pressure. Another tech tip, rubber is what is wanted for SUCTION....silicone is wanted for pressure. Rubber won't collapse, silicone will....but rubber can't hold boost.
(I am familiar with constant tension clamps since like 2006).
Avoid newbisims by applying a small amount of anti seize on threads of Tbolts and Vbands and simply don't over tighten..
And WORM GEARs...are NOT designed for silicone...regardless of suction/pressure. Another tech tip, rubber is what is wanted for SUCTION....silicone is wanted for pressure. Rubber won't collapse, silicone will....but rubber can't hold boost.
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Forney TX
worm gear<T-bolt any day. Any day. It looks like a finished piece...vs some **** you bought at home depot.
(I am familiar with constant tension clamps since like 2006).
Avoid newbisims by applying a small amount of anti seize on threads of Tbolts and Vbands and simply don't over tighten..
And WORM GEARs...are NOT designed for silicone...regardless of suction/pressure. Another tech tip, rubber is what is wanted for SUCTION....silicone is wanted for pressure. Rubber won't collapse, silicone will....but rubber can't hold boost.
(I am familiar with constant tension clamps since like 2006).
Avoid newbisims by applying a small amount of anti seize on threads of Tbolts and Vbands and simply don't over tighten..
And WORM GEARs...are NOT designed for silicone...regardless of suction/pressure. Another tech tip, rubber is what is wanted for SUCTION....silicone is wanted for pressure. Rubber won't collapse, silicone will....but rubber can't hold boost.
I'll agree the T-bolt clamp has its merits, but don't agree it's the end-all be-all for every situation and certainly not needed for the inlet side. The constant tension clamps used in the A&A kits have never caused me an issue with stripping out, cutting into the silicone or being too loose to hold a nicely boosted motor. In some cases I prefer them over T-bolt.
I certainly don't see how a constant tension worm clamp like this one would incur any issues on a silicone hose.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,295
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From: East Coast fl
I'm not sure who this is directed at.
I'll agree the T-bolt clamp has its merits, but don't agree it's the end-all be-all for every situation and certainly not needed for the inlet side. The constant tension clamps used in the A&A kits have never caused me an issue with stripping out, cutting into the silicone or being too loose to hold a nicely boosted motor. In some cases I prefer them over T-bolt.
I certainly don't see how a constant tension worm clamp like this one would incur any issues on a silicone hose.
I'll agree the T-bolt clamp has its merits, but don't agree it's the end-all be-all for every situation and certainly not needed for the inlet side. The constant tension clamps used in the A&A kits have never caused me an issue with stripping out, cutting into the silicone or being too loose to hold a nicely boosted motor. In some cases I prefer them over T-bolt.
I certainly don't see how a constant tension worm clamp like this one would incur any issues on a silicone hose.
As mentioned via phone it wasn't directed towards you...or anyone really(don't care that much
) ....THAT clamp you posted is totally fine...my comments had nothing to do with CT clamps... only directed towards a typical worm gear you find at a home depot vs a proven tbolt. Having worked at a place that sold intercooler tubing/clamps etc to some of the worlds fastest cars and trucks(thats proven)...I have learned a thing or two regarding induction/exhaust ideas. My personal preferance to someone that uses all Tbolts...but on the inlet side goes with a typical worm gear...it looks half assed and unfinished. But thats just me. If someone wants to rock it...do it up. Not on my builds though.But what do I know....I don't use any silicone/tbolts/ct/worm gear on any intake tubing.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,844
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From: Northern Ireland
Silicone will only collapse under vacuum if it is cheap ***** silicone.
Silicone hose will only be damaged by normal worm drive clamps, if some eejit overtightens the clamps....same applies to any clamps really. Obviously the thicker the clamp band, the less likely it is to damage...but some people manage to destroy anything.
I'm not saying cheap worm drive clamps are good for everyone, but they can work, and they can work on silicone when used correctly.
Mine are even being used on cheap ***** silicone from China ! Hard to beat a full 2.5" alloy pipe kit with multiple pieces of silicone for only £65 that I used to make all my turbo to IC boost pipes with.
2 years and never had a pipe blow off yet even up to near 30psi
Silicone hose will only be damaged by normal worm drive clamps, if some eejit overtightens the clamps....same applies to any clamps really. Obviously the thicker the clamp band, the less likely it is to damage...but some people manage to destroy anything.
I'm not saying cheap worm drive clamps are good for everyone, but they can work, and they can work on silicone when used correctly.
Mine are even being used on cheap ***** silicone from China ! Hard to beat a full 2.5" alloy pipe kit with multiple pieces of silicone for only £65 that I used to make all my turbo to IC boost pipes with.
2 years and never had a pipe blow off yet even up to near 30psi
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,295
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From: East Coast fl
Sure, anybody can use anything....whatever works, right? Just because you can, doesn't mean you should but, it's yours(peoples) cars and people will do, what they do...whatever they want. Does it look good? Subjective. Good silicone is typically 3-4 ply...typically the best silicone is American made that we see over here(most import stuff is from china)...silicone will collapse, regardless of quality however cheaper quality will collapse sooner. Of course if it's a 1" gap it likely wouldn't but a 5" gap...yeah, it will. Look it up. Good find on the cheap china parts, again, whatever works, right? To each their own...however physics is physics but sometimes we get lucky.