Suspension Porn
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
Suspension ****
With my new found power (680 RWHP) during hard acceleration my rear quarters meet the 295-50-16 M/T drag radials. Obviously not the best way to start a race. I ordered a set of Viking double adjustable coilovers and so far they are everything I was hoping they would be. Direct bolt in and took about 2 hours to install. With a 600lb Spring they are a bit stiffer than the stock leaf and ride height is 1/2 an inch lower by just hand tightening the coilover adjuster by hand. I'll post some results when I get an opportunity to take a ride.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
I did some searching on a couple forums and a few guys had good arguments why you don't need to spend huge money on other brands. Brands like menscer and santhuff. They also won Best engineered product at 2014 SEMA and I believe it was for their shock valving. Customers service was very good and the price was right. They are 22 way adjustable , the crusader line.
Last edited by junk c5; Aug 26, 2016 at 10:25 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
I dealt with Jake from Viking and bought them directly from Viking. There are a lot of vendors and eBay who have them available as well. It cost me an extra $40 to order from Viking because they don't compete with their distributors. The tech advice and product information I received made it worth it.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 3,611
Likes: 182
From: Toronto, Canada
I'm looking to purchase a set as well. How did you decide on the 600 lb springs? I want to do a full set front and back, but not sure what spring rates to choose.
Do you have a part # for the rears?
Do you have a part # for the rears?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
To get the spring rate I read a little about what other guys with similar combos are using . I also spoke with a representative and we compared notes. I wish I could put a number on how much firmer it is over the factory leaf. All I can say is that it's a little firmer. Takes a good push on the deck lid to get the rear to squat.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,034
Likes: 111
looking forward to some testing results and overall thoughts too.
i have LG coilovers now and not a fan of them at all and looking to replace them with these.
did you do all four corners are just the rear?
i have LG coilovers now and not a fan of them at all and looking to replace them with these.
did you do all four corners are just the rear?
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
Just the rears. I've got Z06 shocks up front. I'll get a couple test passes in the books soon.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 3,611
Likes: 182
From: Toronto, Canada
VRV395AM-600K is the item number.
To get the spring rate I read a little about what other guys with similar combos are using . I also spoke with a representative and we compared notes. I wish I could put a number on how much firmer it is over the factory leaf. All I can say is that it's a little firmer. Takes a good push on the deck lid to get the rear to squat.
To get the spring rate I read a little about what other guys with similar combos are using . I also spoke with a representative and we compared notes. I wish I could put a number on how much firmer it is over the factory leaf. All I can say is that it's a little firmer. Takes a good push on the deck lid to get the rear to squat.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
Yes, the 600 refers to the spring rate. The part # ending in 700 would get you a 700lb Spring rate. It seemed like the higher rates were better for road course set ups.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
Got an opportunity to go around the block and get a couple hard hits in. Right off the bat I could feel the firmer ride which isn't to firm. Driving to lunch with a buddy the car didn't grab the tire on the dips like it was previously so that's a step in the right direction. The rear does sit 1/2 an inch lower than with the factory leafy. During HARD acceleration it seems like it just barely grabs the tire. I'm thinking I'll raise the rear up 1/2 an inch and put 2 clicks in the compression to stiffen it and that should solve my issue
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
Just a little info to add.... With a Hoosier drag radial and 700lb springs the car worked well. I switched to a full M/T slick and the car kept unloading the tires a couple hundred feet out. The rear end had very little downward movement, it was super tight. I changed out the springs to a set of 10” 600lb and it’s a lot looser. I’m hoping to get a decent amount of weight transfer to keep the tires firmly planted. This is on a no prep street type surface.. I’ve seen a better hooking street in the middle of a corn field. I’m sure on a prepped track they will work well but the no prep surface is tricky.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 62
From: Chicago IL
I was able to get some results from a recent no prep event I ran. In addition to the 600 pound Springs, I also changed over to a Hoosier slick with the D06 compound. I was able to throw more power at the car than I ever have. Every round I added more power and was amazed I was able to put it down. Unfortunately, I got taken out in the finals by an all wheel drive car. There is another event at the end of the month and I’m going to throw a ton of power at it and see how much the worst racing surface I’ve ever been on will take.