Water_Walker

Hello,

I got a wonderful 1500 supercharged miles out of my 23K mile ls6 after A&A was added (v3 ti-trim, 3.4 pully w/meth.) and I believe a ring let go. 9psi blew the dipstick out, oil everywhere, clank clank, smoke rolling out of the dipstick, etc.

Needless to say I am extremely disappointed!

Of course, unknown damaged to the block. I am looking for options that would not require me to replace the trans. or rear end, thus keeping the power around 6-750rwhp. (I know a ysi ls3 would be great, but not looking at that now...)

Basically just replace the motor. Any suggestions welcome:

Goals:
Street car only
6-750rwhp
driven 3000K miles a year
reuse the top end of the motor (intake, heads..especially).

Thanks for your time.

Turbo-Geist

If you are looking to make 600 to 750 and never any more:

1. Find out why the engine failed at the current power level and correct the situation

2. Install another stock engine and enjoy life

Water_Walker

Who would you recommend as an engine builder? I am fine with a 347, but will forge it since everything is out.

Mike04

That is not the norm with these motors. They are usually last well at that level but mechanical failures do just happen... When its going back together look at your fuel system and make sure all is functioning proper. also, make sure your tuner is up to the task.

Good luck

stevieturbo

Find out if your block can be re-used again and if so just throw a set of rods/pistons into it and be happy at that.

Of course you could also do a cam and some headwork while it's apart too

Another stock motor may be an option, but boost and stock pistons is always a ticking clock
And that clock is counting down faster if the tuner isnt up to the task as Mike says

Water_Walker

Thanks folks. I like the idea of reusing the motor if possible. If not, I am fine with a new 347 forged.

If you have any recommendations of engine builders, please let me know.

One question: if a good tuner was to take his time with your car, how long would it take to tune after the supercharger install? I am asking because I know how much time was taken with mine.

MVP'S ZO6

What I'm about to say is merely my opinion and I like the idea of safety so I stay conseravite.

1.) The difference between 6 and 750 is a lot.

2.) What were you doing for crank case evacuation (just curious)

3.) If you can stand it use an iron block they weigh a bit more but they're a nice thing to have when you do want to raise the boost level.

4.) I can certainly help you with an engine build if you're interested. I've done a few for friends and members here. I happen to havd Generation 3 and 4 Iron 5.3 blocks ready to machine.


For the tuner question I'd like to think an experienced tuner who deals with these PCM's a lot could tune it with in 3-4 hours (maybe leash but someone with less experience could take 8 or more.

stevieturbo

How long to tune....such a difficult question to answer and a lot comes down to the setup, the environment, the build, whether there are any problems and of course the competence of the tuner. The last being utterly critical.
And even then, some tuners might be fussier than others as to the end product the customer receives....not just that it simply makes power.

it does seem engine builders too can be a minefield. There are good ones out there, but it seems there are an awful lot you get either mixed or bad reports about.

I see LPE offer an LS1 shortblock for under £4k outright...although not sure if that's current as I didnt think they made the LS1/6 blocks anymore.

I'm sure there are some sponsors on here who can sort you with a motor or rebuild yours, if any might be fairly local to you....sadly even buying say a shortblock seems difficult these days !

Whilst it would require a little more work in terms of fitting, something along the lines of a stock LSA short motor would give a good solid base, but unfortunately that isnt as straightforward as it should be because of the crank and reluctor wheel used.
But at least it would be factory built so guaranteed quality.

Even some of the bigger companies who sell or build engines etc, dont really seem to have much by way of listings on their website, so it will be a case of phoning the to discuss requirements
eg LMR, Texas Speed, Vengeance etc

Even the likes of SDPC dont even really seem to offer much by way of shortblocks etc.

And for only 750 I wouldnt even contemplate iron. It's just adding weight for no benefit whatsoever.

Water_Walker

Thanks for the reply:
1. Well, like I mentioned I just want the tranny and rear to stay in the car, so if 750 is too much, then I will leave it. The rear end has been hardened. Tranny stock w/Mantic ER2 clutch.

2. None. I thought I did my homework, but the system was stock. Unsure if that led to its death. I do know I had pressure in the crank case given the dipstick situation and I blew the front crank seal. Even with that would that have lead to a ring letting go?

3. I am open to both.

4. I know you can. I have been around long enough to know some of the good people on this forum. You are one. My problem is that I live in Wyoming, so nothing nearby. I ended up going to CO to have the tuner tune the car...place was recommended to be by A&A. I thought I couldn't go wrong. I am not hear to bash anyone, but I will say I am very disappointed.

In the end, I just take responsibility...it does no good to blame the tuner. I just will never go back there, recommended them, and will give an honest opinion if someone asks me.

Water_Walker

Thanks....and I agree, I will stay away from iron for my current goals.

stevieturbo

And blowing oil out, the dipstick etc etc are all symptoms of the damage ( ie busted piston ), not the cause.

And whilst it is often the first port of call to blame the tuner, even more so given only 1500 miles since installed and tuned. You also cannot rule out a genuine problem having caused the engine failure.
Whether fuel system related, methanol or other unrelated problem that popped up.

A large amount of responsibility does lie with the tuner.....perhaps even all. But there is a small chance there may be almost none at all and that cannot really be known until it is running again and all systems are checked to see if they are actually working as intended.

Water_Walker

Well stated, which is why I am not here bashing the tuner. I will take responsibility because it gives me the control to change it. That change means not returning to that tuner or ever recommending him. Thanks for the feedback. It is helpful.

Forcedvert

I got a SDPC built, forged, stroker long block. Came recommended by a reputable tuner. $ was very reasonable for what I got..IMO



Good luck

Dave concrete

When I had mine done it was about 2.5 hours or more. Almost a 60 miles on it. Actually drove the car for well over an hour to tune real world then finished on the Dyno. 22k miles since the Novi2000 was installed and never an issue what so ever. Half the time I forget I have a blower.
When the stock motor goes I will stay with the LS6 stock cubes and simply forge it and keep it in the 750whp range which on the street is more than enough power.
My present set up is at 6psi and meth, AR headers, and makes just shy of
600 whp.

Water_Walker

Thanks for the options and ideas.

holley505

I got a forged short block from TEXAS SPEED. Been in the car for 8 years now... no issues. Mine is LS3 stroker.... with LS1/LS2 conversion so I can run the old 24X wheel and computer. GOOD LUCK

Turpid porpoise

Did you still have the line from the throttle body to the valve cover attached or did you cap those barbs? This can pressurize the crank case while under boost.

In a boosted application there will be more pressure than stock so you need to remove more pressure than the stock system is capable of.

neverstop

something not right you should be fine at that power level. hopefully block can be re used and just put some budget rods/pistons in there and be stoked.

DKS2K

I would swap in a L33 5.3 from 2005,06 and half 07 trucks. Much better motor for boost and can easily handle the power.