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ls3 or lsx for boost

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Old 07-11-2018, 12:27 AM
  #21  
typeav
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Originally Posted by silver408z
If you are staying with your stock block, skip stroking it. I have never seen a 383 make any power especially due to the extra stroke.
My understanding is that Stroker doesn't made power but torque, are you really sure there is no torque going 383 ? I have to follow what my workshop engine builder recommends but like to hear experience from others ...

Thanks!
Old 07-11-2018, 12:38 AM
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silver408z
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Originally Posted by typeav
My understanding is that Stroker doesn't made power but torque, are you really sure there is no torque going 383 ? I have to follow what my workshop engine builder recommends but like to hear experience from others ...

Thanks!
It will probably give you a little more torque but when you talk to engine builders not all of them like the geometry of a 4" stroke crank and stock blocks. It causes piston skirt issues. I personally had a 408 that was a factory block that was bored out and a 4" stroke. I was N/A when I did it and cubes mean a little more. Since you will have the blower you can keep the better geometry, have less pistons issues and still make as much power as you want. This is also why you see 370's being a popular engine with boost. Its a 6.0 block bored a little with a stock stroke.

Last edited by silver408z; 07-11-2018 at 12:39 AM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 01:33 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by typeav
For the cost of a new LS3 stroker I think the workshop can rebuilt my current LS1 and make it stroker 383, that will save me half the cost and I can go with smaller pulley and make up the difference.

My current LS1 with 4.25" pulley the car is making 636 rwhp on Mustang Dyno that means that if I go with a 3.4" I can get maybe another 200 rwhp

what you guys think ?
Related question: Is it practical to re-sleeve an LS1 / LS6 to get a 4" bore?

Or is that just way more expense/trouble than it's worth?
It'd be 364ci, or 370 with a 4.030 bore.

364ci is 5% less displacement than 383, but with an 8% shorter stroke... so could you just rev it 8% higher for the win?

Last edited by NSFW; 07-11-2018 at 01:34 AM.
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:10 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NSFW
Related question: Is it practical to re-sleeve an LS1 / LS6 to get a 4" bore?

Or is that just way more expense/trouble than it's worth?
It'd be 364ci, or 370 with a 4.030 bore.

364ci is 5% less displacement than 383, but with an 8% shorter stroke... so could you just rev it 8% higher for the win?
the blower will make the power, you don't need a bunch of bore and stroke. Stay with a shorter stroke and consider an L33 block if you want to sleeve it. The LS1 block is worth more so you can sell it and easily get an L33 or other alum block. I'm going iron. 4.8 with wiseco pistons, stock crank and gen4 rods. The rods and crank are supposed to be good to 900 HP, so we'll see. Many have pushed them harder.
Old 07-11-2018, 06:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by NSFW
Related question: Is it practical to re-sleeve an LS1 / LS6 to get a 4" bore?

Or is that just way more expense/trouble than it's worth?
It'd be 364ci, or 370 with a 4.030 bore.

364ci is 5% less displacement than 383, but with an 8% shorter stroke... so could you just rev it 8% higher for the win?
With Darton sleeves....probably. But it would seem an utterly pointless expense. But the difference in torque between stock and 4" is noticeable...and naturally a larger engine will make power more easily. But strokers are not always the way to go, even more so with a big blower drive hanging off the nose. Crank failures are rare, but they have happened.

It really is a bit of a random thread though..going from the extreme of a 510LSX..which really is extreme, to re-using his own LS1 block ? LS1 block, certainly with stock sleeves is probably about the worst of all options for 1khp. Although that 1k goal maybe seems to have dropped to the 800 range ?

Really...it's all over the place nevermind the price difference between a full 510 LSX and a stock LS1 lol.

So what are the goals, what is the budget ?
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:24 PM
  #26  
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My budget is $5k in the short block, $2.6k in heads and 35 hours of labor, that is like $12k more or less.

My goals is to reused most of my current parts as they are new and I do not want to build everything again, this includes

Fast 102mm Intake
Fast Fuwl Rail
Fast 60 lbs injectors
High Volume Oil Pump
Water Pump
Camshaft
I have msd 2351 installed
I have water / methanol kit installed

I wish a reliability 1000 rwhp engine build with parts to last, pulling in between 800-1000 rwhp with boost. This is enough for now.
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:03 PM
  #27  
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I feel like a forged piston/rod LS2/3/9 will easily do that for you. I have a piston and rod LS2 with AFR 205 heads and I'm shooting for 1000whp.
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Old 07-11-2018, 03:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by typeav
My budget is $5k in the short block, $2.6k in heads and 35 hours of labor, that is like $12k more or less.

My goals is to reused most of my current parts as they are new and I do not want to build everything again, this includes

Fast 102mm Intake
Fast Fuwl Rail
Fast 60 lbs injectors
High Volume Oil Pump
Water Pump
Camshaft
I have msd 2351 installed
I have water / methanol kit installed

I wish a reliability 1000 rwhp engine build with parts to last, pulling in between 800-1000 rwhp with boost. This is enough for now.
An LS3 based built to suit your 24x and 1x triggers would be ideal ( as you say your on an LS1 now ). There will also be some wiring adjustments.
LS3 is a better stronger block and lets you see a larger engine without the need for a longer stroke. ( LSA/LS9 would be better but add substantial cost )

Some CA625 studs for insurance or go 1/2" studs. But many get away without either and just regular ARP studs.

Some will say you dont need to spend a lot on heads...I do feel good heads are a good investment, aftermarket with stronger castings etc. But there's no question even basic OEM heads can make a lot of power with ease with a little porting/work

Most will dislike that intake for fear of it blowing apart under boost.
60lb injectors are not taking you to 1000hp....not a chance.
Camshaft...will depend on specs how good/bad it might be.
You will need a proper fuel system for 1000hp.
Old 07-11-2018, 03:08 PM
  #29  
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How much boost is safe for a Fast 102?
Old 07-11-2018, 03:51 PM
  #30  
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FAST probably say 30psi...

Most users who've broken them will say nowhere near that lol

I dont think there is a simple answer...but they do carry risk, more so than other intakes.
Old 07-11-2018, 05:33 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by typeav
My budget is $5k in the short block, $2.6k in heads and 35 hours of labor, that is like $12k more or less.

My goals is to reused most of my current parts as they are new and I do not want to build everything again, this includes

Fast 102mm Intake
Fast Fuwl Rail
Fast 60 lbs injectors
High Volume Oil Pump
Water Pump
Camshaft
I have msd 2351 installed
I have water / methanol kit installed

I wish a reliability 1000 rwhp engine build with parts to last, pulling in between 800-1000 rwhp with boost. This is enough for now.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/thompson...=page_internal
That will hold more than 1000rwhp
Old 07-11-2018, 07:56 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Under-Pressure
American Express does really make dreams come true
Old 07-11-2018, 08:02 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by typeav
American Express does really make dreams come true
I prefer Visa/MC with cash back and 12 months 0%
Old 08-08-2018, 09:34 PM
  #34  
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I decided to go 427 Darton Resleeved, piston bore 4.125 and Crankshaft 4.00

Thanks!
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Old 08-10-2018, 05:40 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by typeav
I decided to go 427 Darton Resleeved, piston bore 4.125 and Crankshaft 4.00

Thanks!
nice block, does anyone still do the 6 bolt modified blocks ???

ERL doesn't do them anymore.



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