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I'm still fighting belt issues on my POS. If I had to guess something to do with the built motor I got and it causing water pump alignment to be off just enough. But yeah, most peeps don't have issues but the more you deviate from a cookie cutter stock engine setup, the more likely something might be "off" a little. I got tired of messing with it and am finally taking it to a shop this week. Been in the que for a few months, lol.
I have the exact same issue. Can you just press the power steering pulley back on? I can just eyeball mine and tell its not aligned right. Guessing it was installed wrong.
It's not as easily done as you put it, but yes it can be just pressed back on. The side of the power steering pulley should be flush with the end of the shaft it's pressed onto. Jessie over at A&A was kind enough to help me out with this problem after the car had been in 2 different shops and nobody noticed it. I had dealt with the problem for a year before I finally called A&A. Frustrated doesn't begin to describe what I felt at this point. Jessie, and A&A, are amazing.
I pressed it back on easy enough with the harbor freight pulley installation kit ($20). To get to it, you'll need to move the ABS control module with the hard lines attached. Remove the two nuts on either side of it, and you can then lift it up out of the aluminum cradle it sits in. Then, you'll need to go under the car and remove the three bolts (two small, one very large that goes through the power steering assy) that hold down the bracket the module was mounted to. Once that's out of the way, you'll get enough wiggle room that you can fit the pulley tool and wrenches in there to press it back on.
Feel free to message me if I can be of any help. Same with anyone else having the issue.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; Aug 19, 2019 at 10:04 PM.
I will say, from what I have seen on a friend's car running the UPP kit, there isn't much you can do as far as getting more airflow around the hotside. Some Trakspec vents would help pull a lot of heat out from the engine bay, but I don't see any way to route the brake ducting to the turbo area with any size piping/tubing that would make a difference. The up-pipes from manifold to the compressor barely clear the front wheels as is. The amount of cutting, trimming and notching he had to do to make the system fit like it was intended to is scary as is.
FWIW, the shop that finished up the fab to make the kit actually work told him they could have just made a custom kit with Precision turbos for essentially what he had in it after he paid them to fix it all anyway
I will say, from what I have seen on a friend's car running the UPP kit, there isn't much you can do as far as getting more airflow around the hotside. Some Trakspec vents would help pull a lot of heat out from the engine bay, but I don't see any way to route the brake ducting to the turbo area with any size piping/tubing that would make a difference. The up-pipes from manifold to the compressor barely clear the front wheels as is. The amount of cutting, trimming and notching he had to do to make the system fit like it was intended to is scary as is.
FWIW, the shop that finished up the fab to make the kit actually work told him they could have just made a custom kit with Precision turbos for essentially what he had in it after he paid them to fix it all anyway
Engine is torn down to address a leaky head. Looks like bolts weren't torqued right. Coolant was leaking out of the front dowel pin. Planning on sticking LS9 head gaskets in with some ARP bolts. I would use studs, but I already have these bolts in my garage. Also looks like the 243's I have are ported. Tracking down an ls6 intake to run now.
Some additional pictures of my car. I've had it for a year. Building it to be an all-around race car. Road-race, standing mile, quarter mile, etc. Lots of progress to be made. Planning to re-assemble and run naturally aspirated for an undefined amount of time. Transmission is shot so I have a c6z rear end ready to go in the car.
