When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello all, long time lurker looking to get in the game. I've got a track rat I just pulled a maggie off (came with the car). Engine was built for boost by Lingenfelter many years ago. From the serial # on the block Lingenfelter stated the engine is still 347cu, but it has a stroker crankshaft. Assuming they wanted a slimmer cylinder bore. I'm a little concerned about picking a random cam for boost if my piston movement will be different than stock. Is this a valid concern?
I think the simplest method of achieving my numbers will be on a centrifugal blower on e85. I plan on converting to flex fuel (have a p59 pcm). Does anyone have recommendations on a setup to be simple and reliable? The turbo kits and builds i've seen are awesome, but fairly complex. I'm considering an aftermarket ecu, and would go for the new holley terminator x if its well received.
Thanks,
Jake
Last edited by poopinpenguins; Aug 13, 2019 at 03:17 PM.
No need for an aftermarket ECU at that level. It wouldn't hurt, but it's no where near necessary.
A basic A&A kit with either of the smaller headunits can make 700 on pump gas. I'd opt for the 8 rib upgrade. If you do go e85, you'll have no problems making 700.
I would first ditch the aftermarket ECU idea and just have your tuner use HPtuners. Secondly have you looked into the UPP Twin Turbo kits? They make excellent power on totally stock engine setups on just wastegate pressure. Reaching your 700whp goal should not be an issue with some added boost, bolt-on fuel system, E85 and a tune.
Not sure it would still be a 347 if it has a stroker crank in it. A&A kit, headers/exhaust/tune.
Agreed. That's just what Lingenfelter told me when I called asking about their part number on the block. I haven't measured the stoke or cylinder bore yet. Guessing they were wrong.
LS6 intake, stock TB, ZO6 Cam, find some CNC'd 317's to dip the compression down a tad, 60lb injectors, adequate fuel pump, and feed it about 10-12lbs of boost from a centri. That's probably going to be your simplest route. This is assuming you already have headers and other supporting items.
If you do the twin turbo's (I have an APS kit but really like what I've seen out of those UPP kits), I will warn you now. You will keep going and going. Twins are a completely different experience than a blower.
LS6 intake, stock TB, ZO6 Cam, find some CNC'd 317s to dip the compression down a tad, 60lb injectors, adequate fuel pump, and feed it about 10-12lbs of boost from a centri. That's probably going to be your simplest route. This is assuming you already have headers and other supporting items.
If you do the twin turbos (I have an APS kit but really like what I've seen out of those UPP kits), I will warn you now. You will keep going and going. Twins are a completely different experience than a blower.
he don't necessarily need to drop the compression. i'm pushing 13psi through ported 243s at 650+ whp, which ended up being about 10.5 static CR, and it's running fine on pump gas... and that was after 7yrs of 10-11psi on stock 10.1 CR.
Originally Posted by stevieturbo
If you already have the Maggie.....is it not capable of 700hp ?
If not, an ECS or A&A will be the easiest and cheapest route.
looks like a 112 in the pics, which would take a LOT more effort and $$ to get to 700whp than using a TVS2300.
he don't necessarily need to drop the compression. i'm pushing 13psi through ported 243s at 650+ whp, which ended up being about 10.5 static CR, and it's running fine on pump gas... and that was after 7yrs of 10-11psi on stock 10.1 CR.
I've also been running 650rwhp on stock 243 heads at 12psi and v3 si at 10.5 compression. Running 93 pump gas and have been doing it since 2013.
he don't necessarily need to drop the compression. i'm pushing 13psi through ported 243s at 650+ whp, which ended up being about 10.5 static CR, and it's running fine on pump gas... and that was after 7yrs of 10-11psi on stock 10.1 CR.
looks like a 112 in the pics, which would take a LOT more effort and $$ to get to 700whp than using a TVS2300.
Correct. It is a 112. Not worth the effort and its already sold.
Also I spoke with Lingenfelter again, and got a better rep this time around. I have a Moldex stock stroke crankshaft, JE pistons, and Lunati Rods.
I am torn between a UPP TT setup and a centrifugal setup. The TT setup should have more room to grow, but a more difficult install process, and certainly much more troubleshooting in general. Heat management will be troublesome either way I am assuming. I may run an engine oil cooler in my license plate grate, and reroute my front brake coolers to the turbos in the fenders if I go that route.
Heat management with a centri is nothing like heat management with twins under the hood. You also don't have to cut anything up to fit a centri but I think the UPP kit requires some modifications to get everything to fit.
Heat management with a centri is nothing like heat management with twins under the hood. You also don't have to cut anything up to fit a centri but I think the UPP kit requires some modifications to get everything to fit.
I definitely agree with you. I'm leaning more towards a centrifugal setup, I'm just spitballing some ideas with turbos to hear others' opinions.
My thought process with the turbos in the fenders would be getting air in and out quickly. Repurposing the brake cooling ducts to blow right on the hot side, and extracting the air from the front fender vents. Maybe that's not even worth the trouble. I suppose a centri would run cooler either way. It would also free up my front two fog light vents for additional cooling.
In my local car scene no one likes centri's due to belt issues. But no one runs C5's either. On an 8-rib secondary drive with a more modest pulley I don't think I will have many issues. These kits seem to be designed very well for our platform.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
C5 of Year Winner (performance mods) 2019
Originally Posted by poopinpenguins
In my local car scene no one likes centri's due to belt issues. But no one runs C5's either.
what bracket though??... also depends if they are checking belt alignment and correcting it if needed but once you get a good bracket and set it up right you shouldn't have any belt problems and the belts will last quite a long time
Last edited by StingrayRebel; Aug 19, 2019 at 04:25 PM.
I just had my first belt related problem since installed in 2012. The power steering pulley had walked out over time about 3-4mm, putting the belt alignment out about 1 full rib. It was making one hell of a squealing noise with the A&A V3 Si setup. It was loud enough to hear over my LG Pro Longtubes, no cats, B&B Bullets, etc on the highway. It still never broke or threw a belt, just made LOUD noises. Never a single issue besides that, and not a big deal at all once found. Never had belt slip or anything of the sort.
Last edited by Quickshift_C5; Aug 19, 2019 at 05:20 PM.
I just had my first belt related problem since installed in 2012. The power steering pulley had walked out over time about 3-4mm, putting the belt alignment out about 1 full rib. It was making one hell of a squealing noise with the A&A V3 Si setup. It was loud enough to hear over my LG Pro Longtubes, no cats, B&B Bullets, etc on the highway. It still never broke or threw a belt, just made LOUD noises. Never a single issue besides that, and not a big deal at all once found. Never had belt slip or anything of the sort.
I have the exact same issue. Can you just press the power steering pulley back on? I can just eyeball mine and tell its not aligned right. Guessing it was installed wrong.
Easiest path to 700hp
