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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 08:00 AM
  #1  
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Default Need a new engine

After 157k miles of abuse, my engine finally let go. Unsure exactly what happened but the amount of metal in my oil is insane. Sent a sample to Blackstone just because and aluminum was 134PPM compared to a national average of 4PPM. 😂 Iron levels were also over 2x the average.

Car is a 00 w/ tiv1-3.25", cam, heads, e85, built trans/diff, ect.

I'm going to have an engine built and was thinking about going to a fully forged 383. I had someone recommend against that as they said FI and strokers don't go well together. Is there any truth to this, and if so, what should I go with instead. Wanting an engine built prior to pulling mine to reduce the time in the shop taking up space.
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 09:11 AM
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Why are you asking us instead of a competent engine builder? We all have opinions but we aren't the ones who are going to have to stand behind your build. Find an engine builder with a good reputation, tell them your goals and how you use the car and let them work with you to spec the engine you require.

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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 11:07 AM
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If my understanding is correct, its the compression you need to worry about not the stroke. More competent people will chime in.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 10:03 AM
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WTF why so much aluminum? Bearings are coated steel, rings are steel, cylinder liners are iron.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 07:12 PM
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Depends on your power goals and what block you want to use. I myself plan on doing a 347 with a goal of around 800. If your block isnt salvageable than I'd prolly do a 370 with an iron block.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 07:19 PM
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I hope you get exactly youre looking for.

Some things i found helpful over the years was to overbuild the setup from the start atleast 30% beyond your intended power goal, even if you never turn it up you have much more longevity

Also buy a proven setup, find someone around your power goal and mimic their components. Being the first often leads to extra expenses
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Old Aug 19, 2020 | 10:19 PM
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I was in a similar situation recently. Went with an 5.3 iron block, so I could reuse he top of the motor. Threw a ysi at it and it’s tame at 800rwhp.

Last edited by Water_Walker; Aug 19, 2020 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Aug 21, 2020 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by bonesbrakr
If my understanding is correct, its the compression you need to worry about not the stroke. More competent people will chime in.

putting 4” stroke cranks in blocks with short cylinders will pull the piston out of the cylinder more than some
people like, so the general consensus is don’t do it for this reason. There are people however that do it and boost it, but I’m not personally sure of the longevity of it.

as for compression many people like just dropping compression way down but you’re also sacracifing a decent amount of power by doing this, many people are running higher compressions with boost and this is ok up to a certain point, me for example am at 10.8:1 and didn’t start pushing water till 24psi. I was making 780 on 18psi beforehand.

so depending what your goals are power wise I’d make your compression relative to what you want to make
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 10:23 AM
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as for compression many people like just dropping compression way down but you’re also sacracifing a decent amount of power by doing this, many people are running higher compressions with boost and this is ok up to a certain point, me for example am at 10.8:1 and didn’t start pushing water till 24psi. I was making 780 on 18psi beforehand.

so depending what your goals are power wise I’d make your compression relative to what you want to make[/QUOTE]


do the 4.8 and 5.3 blocks have shorter bore lengths? 4.0 stroke is pretty popular and I thought all the not LS7 blocks had the same cyl length. 4.0 crank is the most popular stroke and I'm curious about durability too.
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 03:04 PM
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what's you power goals? I'm not a stroker fan personally, If money is burning a whole in my wallet, I'll choose more bore, over more stroke.
I also love compression. on E85, i wont go under 10:5
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Old Aug 24, 2020 | 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Rkreigh
do the 4.8 and 5.3 blocks have shorter bore lengths? 4.0 stroke is pretty popular and I thought all the not LS7 blocks had the same cyl length. 4.0 crank is the most popular stroke and I'm curious about durability too.
The only factory block with longer sleeves is the ls7. The other factory blocks have shorter sleeves. Alot of people do run 4.0 strokes in them still. I did for along time but my car was not a daily driver. The extra cubes from stroke are not as important on a boosted setup as it is on a NA setup. They help but its not going to make a big difference. On boosted setups, power is more determined by what turbo/blower you are running.
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Old Aug 25, 2020 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by silver408z
The only factory block with longer sleeves is the ls7. The other factory blocks have shorter sleeves. Alot of people do run 4.0 strokes in them still. I did for along time but my car was not a daily driver. The extra cubes from stroke are not as important on a boosted setup as it is on a NA setup. They help but its not going to make a big difference. On boosted setups, power is more determined by what turbo/blower you are running.
so in my case I've got almost all the pieces for my build except pistons. I've got a lunati forged 4.0 crank, or a good stocker.

I'll be pushing 1000 hp which is the limit of the 58 mm ttix t3/t4 turbos Going to .82 exh turbine housing and 3.0 down pipes with c6 z06 3 " exh adapted to c5 should free up exh side and back pressure a bit

I might just sell the 4.0 lunati and get another crank as I agree the 4.0 crank isn't really ideal. My vette will not be a daily driver and longevity isn't really a bit issue so I might just go for it as it would get with the program with more bottom end torq

I know the stocker will live at that hp level, but I don't really want to pirate the old LS6 engine it's in as I'll freshen that up for another project. It's good to have spares in the LS world. If you don't break stuff, you aren't trying hard enough!!!
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