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20 is common? Are you sure? I'm fairly confident both tuners I've used have set it at 14 for a good, safe tune. Another couple degrees should be ok, but is 20 really "common"?
14 is a very low number. Maybe on an LS3 car with a lot of boost we would be in that timing range. But LS1 cars like more timing then LS3 cars do and they also have less compression. Are you getting knock with more timing? Did they try to add any? Timing is power, if you're short on power and on timing it looks easy to me but those dyno graphs look awfully rough. I think you have some belt slip but you could be bleeding some boost as well or fighting a mechanical issue.
14 is a very low number. Maybe on an LS3 car with a lot of boost we would be in that timing range. But LS1 cars like more timing then LS3 cars do and they also have less compression. Are you getting knock with more timing? Did they try to add any? Timing is power, if you're short on power and on timing it looks easy to me but those dyno graphs look awfully rough. I think you have some belt slip but you could be bleeding some boost as well or fighting a mechanical issue.
He's not the OP, he just commented. OP definitely has some type of mechanical issues as well as a tuning issue.
Good Points, still stock springs.
I'll swap those out just for insurance, order and drop in a racetronix pump, then take it to be retuned at one of the shops recommended in this thread
Keep the BAP as well.
While taking it to a new tuner, remember to ask BOTH before tune and after tune graphs. Just for us to review here. :-)
Timing is power, if you're short on power and on timing it looks easy to me but those dyno graphs look awfully rough. I think you have some belt slip but you could be bleeding some boost as well or fighting a mechanical issue.
Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't add timing to get more power when there seems to be some kind of mechanical issue ongoing. Maybe his baseline rwhp already indicates that.
It depends on how much boost but generally on an LS1 car 20 degrees is common
wow, that is higher than I even thought to test...Thanks for the feedback...As I like to tinker with the tune, I will try 1 degree at a time to see if my car will allow more timing without knock...I saw that on an actual dyno I was seeing knock which is why the timing was low....I am not sure if the street will make a difference over a dyno in this regard.....But I was always told that a good tuner will dyno tune then also tune on the street...not sure if this is accurate but it sounds feasible...
wow, that is higher than I even thought to test...Thanks for the feedback...As I like to tinker with the tune, I will try 1 degree at a time to see if my car will allow more timing without knock...I saw that on an actual dyno I was seeing knock which is why the timing was low....I am not sure if the street will make a difference over a dyno in this regard.....But I was always told that a good tuner will dyno tune then also tune on the street...not sure if this is accurate but it sounds feasible...
I've always been told to steadily increase timing after you are sure that you have no mechanical issues and your AFR is safe until you either A. Start getting knock or B. Start getting diminishing returns as you increase timing. There no point in adding that extra degree of timing if it only nets you 1 wtq but puts you closer to the ragged edge of being a bad tank of fuel away from a new engine.
Yes, you should fine tune on the street once you're done on the dyno because a dyno is only a simulation of real world conditions. Once you get off the dyno you want to make sure the simulations were accurate and the changes made actually reflect what you are seeing while driving it as intended.
wow, that is higher than I even thought to test...Thanks for the feedback...As I like to tinker with the tune, I will try 1 degree at a time to see if my car will allow more timing without knock...I saw that on an actual dyno I was seeing knock which is why the timing was low....I am not sure if the street will make a difference over a dyno in this regard.....But I was always told that a good tuner will dyno tune then also tune on the street...not sure if this is accurate but it sounds feasible...
Best way to tune after you get the basic tune on the dyno is to tune at a drag strip. In my case, we took timing out and increased fuel. The car was making big power on the dyno but the tune was causing knock at the drag strip. Picked up half a second by backing away from the ragged edge.
Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't add timing to get more power when there seems to be some kind of mechanical issue ongoing. Maybe his baseline rwhp already indicates that.
I'm with you, but his baseline looks normal for a 6 speed 2001 C5, doesn't it?
14 is a very low number. Maybe on an LS3 car with a lot of boost we would be in that timing range. But LS1 cars like more timing then LS3 cars do and they also have less compression. Are you getting knock with more timing? Did they try to add any? Timing is power, if you're short on power and on timing it looks easy to me but those dyno graphs look awfully rough. I think you have some belt slip but you could be bleeding some boost as well or fighting a mechanical issue.
I'm not going to argue with you because I know you have way more experience than I do, but the first tuner that tuned my car (who is/was supposedly one of the best tuners around) left it at 14* for a safe tune and said he'd be comfortable taking it up a couple degrees on his own car, but not a customer car. And the second tuner, the guy who actually makes the blower kit, also stopped at 14* IIRC. I'm sure you can run much higher with race gas or meth, but on 91/93 pump gas, it's surprising to hear 20* is common. That sounds like quite a bit of power being left on the table by reputable tuners if that's the case. Turpid already pointed it out, but I'm not the OP haha
V3Si here. Around 600 crank HP, car runs 130 trap speeds in the 1/4.
I was at about 14-15 degrees timing on 91 octane (with stock cam) and would get too many blips of KR for my liking. I switched to blending my fuel to make E33 and which is around 95 octane and I am at 17 degrees of timing now with NO KR.
If an engine really does not like timing (and is knock limited prior to making MBT), I would wonder if it has too much carbon buildup on the pistons or if there is a weak injector - which runs that cylinder a bit lean (less cooling) and causes KR. Just some thoughts.
Also, Headers are over rated on these cars when you are keeping the stock cats. For offroad use without cats they are worth it - especially with a 3" exhaust (instead of stock 2.5")
Here is the reasoning behind my headers statement.
I had valve float when I initially dynoed mine after installing an ECS kit. Timing was in the 14-15* area. After discussing on here with some and the tuner (Mike Norris), we swapped out the stock springs with some single PACS. The next dyno after wards picked up close to 80 rwhp. Search for my name and look through the posts.
I had valve float when I initially dynoed mine after installing an ECS kit. Timing was in the 14-15* area. After discussing on here with some and the tuner (Mike Norris), we swapped out the stock springs with some single PACS. The next dyno after wards picked up close to 80 rwhp. Search for my name and look through the posts.
100% Agreed, in fact springs are the only other engine mod I have and I trap 130 in the 1/4. I chose to go with LS6 springs and they work fine too.
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