How much does it cost to convert to e85?

 

Stock car to a 1000hp car. What set is it for? Price is going to range.

 

Call a vendor and ask them. It depends on how thorough you want to be.

You need more fuel pump, more fuel injector and most likely more fuel line. If you want flex fuel capability you will need an engine management solution.

 

from what I remember about your chitbox, it was high 600-700 range on 93, stock fuel pump.

ultimately you need about 30-35 percent more fuel going from pump gas E10 to E85. Never a bad thing to go a little overboard when it comes to fuel though.

The 2003.5-2004 fuel system is a little different too, so that's a factor here as well and changes the various options.

Racetronix makes drop in fuel pumps for both early and late C5s...BAP'd, that would probably be enough fuel pump for you and is the most simple solution most likely. If you plan to go smaller pulley later then maybe overbuild it some. Regardless of fuel pump, the best solution (and I recommend) doing a return fuel line, regulator at the rail etc. Makes tuning a lot easier and more consistent too.

Based on what you decide for fuel pump and returnless vs return, then you look at what size injectors you'll need. You'll probably need a step bigger injectors if you stay returnless vs going boost referenced regulator w/ return line.

 

As the others have said, it depends on how far you go. I used the ecs ring on my tank and ran an aux pump/line to my rail. So my initial cost was line, fittings, aux pump, fuel ring, and fic 1000 injectors which all set me back around $1600.

I didn't do a return line/fpr and was running a high duty cycle on my injectors (94%). Following year I added a return line, fpr, and racetronix 255 in tank which all costed just shy of $1000. Then I blew up the engine. Ideally, I'll probably still need more injector and I should have went to a larger in tank pump, but I was already well over budget. So, sooner or later I'll up the injector and switch to a hellcat in tank pump, but I'm going to be maxing out my v1ti anyways right now.

 

car has 60 pound injectors maxed out and I have a new set of 80's in a box. I dont want more power since I have a stock bottom end. I have a bap as part of the supercharger kit. car dynoes 699 on mustang chassis dyno completely out of injector, pump etc... at around??6100 rpm... at Lashway Motorsports in Ft. Lauderdale. I was actually hoping for less. Thee is a video of the dyno and the dyno sheet that was uncovered by someone on this site. You dont have to agree with the numbers, but it did what it did. I dont care about the numbers btw. I do dump in torco octane boost from time to time. the car sits 98% of the time.I think I racked up 500 miles in 4 years and 350 was moving to Ocala. Looking for a automatic convertible c5 for trade but seems people under value the c5 z06 a ton. dont know why?? They feel like track cars but now people unloading them.??

 

I'm doing this right now so I can speak to it.

New fuel system
figure around 40% more flow and step up in injector size
replace the pumps with brent's intank big boy pumps
for the tune, you have a few options

you can do a dedicated e85 tune, but you better have a spare pump gas tune ready in case there is no E and "blends" mess up the tune
e85 isn't that is to say the % of E varies alot and again, that can slightly impact octane and btu so you tune for e85 and get e70, that's a big delta and the quality control on E85 stinks

go flex fuel

which is MUCH more expensive but the much better way to go
you can go aftermarket ecm *I went haltech with 8 channel egt and 2 channel o2 with all bells and whisles
it can drive a dedicated direct port alchy injection with an amp driver box which allows the haltech to control alchy and "trim" the top end with a dedicated ECS alchy control converted over to direct port
the flex fuel sensor can ideally compensate for the variance at the pump of if you have to refuel on top of a mostly empty e85 fuel it will compensate, but don't think you can just hammer it while the learning goes on pump gas

there's a cheaper method of using a GM P51 truck computer and replacing the vette ecu with some minor wiring tricks. That's a good alternative but you are limited by the lack of advanced tuning and monitoring that an full boogie after market system does

I haven't seen it done but there is no technical reason a Megasquirt 3 Pro couldn't splice into the factory wiring just like the hatech does. It's a much cheaper setup, very advanced, and will do everything you need. I may be the first as I'm thinking of doing another turbo car and the MS3 Pro is only about 1200 with a cut in wiring harness vs 3x that for others like haltech elite and holley or others. The more advanced stuff starts at 5k and goes up to10 plus real quick.

 

wow thats a lot of information. way more than I wanted to get into. I havent put the larger 80's on because I dont want to redyno the car for nothing. I dont want to make more power I just dont want it to blow up. It cant blow up since I dont drive it much so I guess for now its ok. Tuner said it was a safe tune because it dies after 6200 rpm it pulls timing. I will use the tune that is in it and add some octane boost just in case. car runs great and has tons of power. thanks for your input. ed.

 

Standalones won't pass emissions though which holds back a lot of people.

 

haltech retains obd2 aldl plug in data stream for the inspection, but you are correct, many do not.

When you splice in and piggy back, the stock ecm is still running the gauges and tranny controls

 

a much cheaper and low risk solution for you is a direct port alchy system. you can program some safeguards and also just use the meth for a safety margin

a little rich and cooler won't hurt power a bit and you are burning a clean and high octane fuel

I don't like alchy in the up pipe as it doesn't distribute nearly as well as direct port

Let me know if you want me to hook you up there I'll be selling a Julio Alchy system off my c5 that works great

 

Absolutely NOT true.

 

A lot of incorrect or old info out there then

 

Absolutely, which I was I keep referring people to vendors lol. They seem to be the only ones up to date these days and things evolve quicker than ever.

 

If i can get boost by gear and pass emissions sign me up. I sent Brett a text lol. Everytime I see standalone or piggyback I don't even click on it because it usually meant failing emissions lol.

 

You can piggy back the signal wires for your sensors into the oem PCM so that it still receives enough information that you don't get flagged during an OBD scan. You just have to make sure you send info from every sensor that could potentially trigger a failed scan. You basically have to do this either way if you plan to retain the oem cluster.

 

maybe I will call a vendor. meth alky kit might be good insurance. I dont want to re dyno tune this car. like i said, I dont want more power I just want some safety.. thanks for all your remarks and comments. ed. question, what will happen if I just plug in the 80 pound injectors without a dyno tune??

 

As long as you update the injector data in your tune to account for the increased flow, nothing. It should drive fine.

 

In that case, I think water/meth injection is probably exactly what you need here like you said. I recommend using a single 10 gph nozzle or so, and 50/50 mix. You'll definitely need to get a touch up tune after swapping injectors. In theory you can change injectors, update injector data only and drive....but it's very good practice to ensure fueling is still good etc. Do this at the same time you put on the water/meth kit and you can ensure everything is nice and safe. If you swap injectors without touching the tune it will run very very rich.

 

You are better off fixing your fuel problems than just putting meth on. As far as not wanting to retune it and just add meth wont work either. Even meth will be adding fuel and mess with the tune. I mean it could but does not seem like the best way to do it.