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My swap is up and running, factory harness depinned, and factory ecu 100% happy. After talking with a forum member, who I am extremely thankful for, the key to keeping the stock ecu happy, and not throwing a reduced engine power is maintaining the factory pedal and throttle body, at least it worked for me. I am using a LS2 throttle body and C6 pedal, with the factory throttle body remote mounted on the car, and the factory gas pedal tied up under the dash.
If you have efilive or know someone with it go to "Vehicle platform" and under "vehicle platform options" put "NO" for electronic throttle,And you can get rid of the extra pedal & TB,Also could have used your stock throttle pedal,Current performance makes an adapter or you can make your own like I did and I have no problems.
If you have efilive or know someone with it go to "Vehicle platform" and under "vehicle platform options" put "NO" for electronic throttle,And you can get rid of the extra pedal & TB,Also could have used your stock throttle pedal,Current performance makes an adapter or you can make your own like I did and I have no problems.
No EFILive here, just HPTuners, not sure if you can do it inside HPT or not.
Who all has completely removed the abs as well? Not so worried about the removal of the wiring for the abs as it's pretty straight forward.. But just curious who has and if there's anything specific to pay attention to.
The request torque signal from the pcm is one along with the serial data line (connector c1 blue, pin 58,dark green) to the ip harness. Can this be removed?
Another one on the pcm side, is the tcc brake switch wire (c1 blue, pin33 purple) and the clutch switch wire (c1 blue, pin 35,gray)...the clutch switch wire is for the cruise control switch, so I assume that can go and the remaining pink wire off that switch goes to the brake switch. But does the purple pin 33 wire need to stay? It goes to c1 in the fuse block, and is fused to b6 of c2 in the fuse block which then goes to pin a of the brake switch.
Who all has completely removed the abs as well? Not so worried about the removal of the wiring for the abs as it's pretty straight forward.. But just curious who has and if there's anything specific to pay attention to.
The request torque signal from the pcm is one along with the serial data line (connector c1 blue, pin 58,dark green) to the ip harness. Can this be removed?
Another one on the pcm side, is the tcc brake switch wire (c1 blue, pin33 purple) and the clutch switch wire (c1 blue, pin 35,gray)...the clutch switch wire is for the cruise control switch, so I assume that can go and the remaining pink wire off that switch goes to the brake switch. But does the purple pin 33 wire need to stay? It goes to c1 in the fuse block, and is fused to b6 of c2 in the fuse block which then goes to pin a of the brake switch.
From my understanding ABS can go, but the factory dash will light up and alert you to a ABS error on the DIC.
From my understanding ABS can go, but the factory dash will light up and alert you to a ABS error on the DIC.
back when I still had the OEM pcm, my ABS block was removed as was the booster. Manual brakes. Light on the dash was on all the time until I took apart the cluster and disabled it.
back when I still had the OEM pcm, my ABS block was removed as was the booster. Manual brakes. Light on the dash was on all the time until I took apart the cluster and disabled it.
Nice! Were you able to get the DIC message to go away as well?
back when I still had the OEM pcm, my ABS block was removed as was the booster. Manual brakes. Light on the dash was on all the time until I took apart the cluster and disabled it.
Yeah I took out all the traction control,ABS block,Made new brake lines and took the bulb out of the dash for ABS The only message I get is "Service engine soon" Wish I could get ride of that,I always have to hit the reset button when I start it.
Yeah I took out all the traction control,ABS block,Made new brake lines and took the bulb out of the dash for ABS The only message I get is "Service engine soon" Wish I could get ride of that,I always have to hit the reset button when I start it.
Did you remove the steering sensor wiring, the yaw rate, etc?
Well, have the pcm harness and the abs/ebcm/front engine bay harness out and depinned. Decided that all of the wiring on the inside of the car to the plugs on the outside of the firewall can just remain where they are as everything ahead of them is gone. Only wiring section I will remove is the TAC to pedal harness as that should come out fairly easily.
I started looking at mine the other day and excavated down to the computer and got the battery tray out of the way.
I'm thinking I am going to peel off all the protective shielding next and triple check as I group all my ignition and injector lines then cut them close to the firewall. I'll try to offset them so if I reconnect them for factory ECU use in the future the deutsch connectors fit decently behind it all. Later on I'll see if I can use the existing grommet or if I must drill another hole in the firewall.
The "self tuning" feature is the same as a fuel trim histogram being applied to your tune, so everything else still needs attention to get it dialed in properly. I sell Haltech and Holley systems and have a systematic way of installing these into C5's and C6's that makes it much easier. All the factory gauges continue to work. No check engine light, no messages. Basically you can't tell that the factory PCM isn't running the powertrain. Even the PCM doesn't know that it's not running the show..
Bret
Could this be done with a terminator x setup? I'm looking to got Holley on my 05 C6