d1x install and tuning
08-28-2023, 09:42 AM
#21
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
I'm hesitant to sent this balancer off into the abyss. Seems like a competent machine shot out to be able to precisely cut a keyway across from the existing one.
I also thought about an even easier approach. Use the keyway slot in the crank and drill a big pin. It would be .25 or bigger. Seems like that would be very strong.
Or keyway plus 2 additional pins. Installing 2 keyways sounds tricky to line up Anyone done this??? I'm at point of no return now and don't want to put it back stock but the hassle score keeps going higher.
I also thought about an even easier approach. Use the keyway slot in the crank and drill a big pin. It would be .25 or bigger. Seems like that would be very strong.
Or keyway plus 2 additional pins. Installing 2 keyways sounds tricky to line up Anyone done this??? I'm at point of no return now and don't want to put it back stock but the hassle score keeps going higher.
08-28-2023, 11:18 AM
#22
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
ok, came to my senses. IW will cut the keyway and have it down pat. Turn around is fast, and it's the low risk approach.
I'm going back to doing turbos. ;>
I'm going back to doing turbos. ;>
09-13-2023, 09:36 PM
#25
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
one step at a time, what a PITA. got the dual keyway cut in the balancer, and got the single row c5r timing chain and new timing gears on
motor rotates freely
BUT the comp cam timing cover has casting bumps for timing mark indicator (who the hell would use that on an LS engine??) that hits the first bracket for the dedicated accessory drive
I either need pull the balancer back off and put on a stock timing chain cover or hack up and clearance the bracket quite a bit to clear the casting boss in the timing chain
the PS bracket needs to be cut for the new drive system. What do you all use for triming the alum?? I think a good sawzal will work for trimming the power steering bracket and dremel bit to grind out and clearance the bracket
it's about 1/2 thick. May start it with a 1/2 drill bit hole to get it started. Should have switched out that *&^%$ timing cover!!!
motor rotates freely
BUT the comp cam timing cover has casting bumps for timing mark indicator (who the hell would use that on an LS engine??) that hits the first bracket for the dedicated accessory drive
I either need pull the balancer back off and put on a stock timing chain cover or hack up and clearance the bracket quite a bit to clear the casting boss in the timing chain
the PS bracket needs to be cut for the new drive system. What do you all use for triming the alum?? I think a good sawzal will work for trimming the power steering bracket and dremel bit to grind out and clearance the bracket
it's about 1/2 thick. May start it with a 1/2 drill bit hole to get it started. Should have switched out that *&^%$ timing cover!!!
09-17-2023, 11:21 AM
#27
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
dual keyways are recommended for blowers above 800 hp and this one will crank out 1000
drilling into the forged cranks is much harder than dual keyways which are much stronger
It was worth the hassle.
drilling into the forged cranks is much harder than dual keyways which are much stronger
It was worth the hassle.
09-21-2023, 08:49 AM
#28
Drifting
quick calculation (round numbers):
16mm 10.9 screw has a clamping force of 10 tons. the snout has a radius of 20mm. µ = 0.3 (is probably higher).
10^5 n x 0.3 x 0.02 m = 600 nm torque capacity (according to uniform wear theory).
the pin is there as a back up, in case the clamping gets compromised.
i even doubt the dual keyways being stronger than a pin. they probably have a smaller shear area and are of much weaker material (1045 v.s hardened tool steel).
16mm 10.9 screw has a clamping force of 10 tons. the snout has a radius of 20mm. µ = 0.3 (is probably higher).
10^5 n x 0.3 x 0.02 m = 600 nm torque capacity (according to uniform wear theory).
the pin is there as a back up, in case the clamping gets compromised.
i even doubt the dual keyways being stronger than a pin. they probably have a smaller shear area and are of much weaker material (1045 v.s hardened tool steel).
Last edited by romandian; 09-21-2023 at 10:33 AM.
09-25-2023, 03:32 PM
#29
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
maybe, the IW folks recommend dual keyways for blowers making over 800 hp as does the major blower guys.
I'll stick with that. Drilling a hardened forged crank is no picnic. I had a calliew magnum crank already cut for two keyways, and to me those 3/16 hardened keyways on opposite sides of the crank look stronger to me in comparison.
the dual keyway balancer was ez, and so it was a no brainer to follow those recommendations.
Both vendors talked about snapping the pins. I'm trusting those with the t shirt. best of luck pinining.
I'll stick with that. Drilling a hardened forged crank is no picnic. I had a calliew magnum crank already cut for two keyways, and to me those 3/16 hardened keyways on opposite sides of the crank look stronger to me in comparison.
the dual keyway balancer was ez, and so it was a no brainer to follow those recommendations.
Both vendors talked about snapping the pins. I'm trusting those with the t shirt. best of luck pinining.
09-28-2023, 08:44 AM
#31
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
yup, and the forged crank will tear up a box of drill bits compared to the stocker. some pin kits drill the edge of the crank, and the IW has 3 pins that are inboard where the metal is softer
problem with the pin kits is the size and strength of the pin. With the 3 pin kits, one pin can stress out and the other 2 follow. With a single pin, it's not enough penetration into the crank and balancer if the pin is too small and it can crack the balancer
the bigger blower put tremendous load on the crank snouts so you need all the strength you can get. The 3 big guys all told me the same thing and have much experience with the Procharger and YSI big blowers. Best of luck to you doing otherwise. Might work fine, not recommended. I'll stick to what folks with more experience than me told me to do.
And balancer is done!! onto brackets and plumbing.
problem with the pin kits is the size and strength of the pin. With the 3 pin kits, one pin can stress out and the other 2 follow. With a single pin, it's not enough penetration into the crank and balancer if the pin is too small and it can crack the balancer
the bigger blower put tremendous load on the crank snouts so you need all the strength you can get. The 3 big guys all told me the same thing and have much experience with the Procharger and YSI big blowers. Best of luck to you doing otherwise. Might work fine, not recommended. I'll stick to what folks with more experience than me told me to do.
And balancer is done!! onto brackets and plumbing.