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So I have a very large PNR aluminum trunk tank for my 2650 and was wondering, do you guys know if there is a tank that fits in the middle area (where people put a sub box) or something more compact? Current tank is 6 gal. Smaller would work even
Guys, thought I'd update. Did the conversion and put a smaller tank and smaller heat exchanger with a fan in the back. IATs went up by about 10F BUUUUT, my coolant and oil temps are like 20F lower in 100F weather!!
my case has been all over the place for a while... the a/c started leaking ever since i got the car back from build in spring 2019 and never got fixed until last week... so i ain't got any long-term temperature data. that said, when Bret was tuning (and the chiller was working great), i can't remember what temps the blower coolant maintained (thinking in the low 40s°), but he did mention that dyno pulls on an almost-100° TX day were showing IATs around 100° at 10psi. we didn't get that detailed of data on the 13psi tune (street driving only).
my last couple track days didn't have a working chiller, so the intercooler temps were only as good as the heat exchanger could do (which i didn't measure).
Hey Zebra, yeah she made around 825whp / 785tq at 17 psi after which the belt started slipping. There was zero knock, etc! My tuner said the limitation is the belt drive and it's not a dedicated drive like on the C6ZR1...
The belt drive has been a nightmare and I was about to pull the damn thing out and go back to a TVS2300. My car is a show and go build but mostly show now lol. PD BLOWERS sound so cool but can be a nightmare as far as the belt and IATs...
thanks. it's been together & running great for a while - just no a/c (for the cabin or supplemental blower cooling).
tuner had an electrical surge that deleted my dyno sheet, but he said my heads/cam LS1 made 650h/630t on 10psi with my 2300 & no slip. as he wrapped that up, he noticed the front main leaking... so since the balancer was coming back off, i went ahead & bought an OD unit. makes 13psi now & was only street tuned for updates... guessing a little under 700h now.
what ratios & how much wrap do you have on your drive? granted, i ain't pushing that much boost, but my single 6rib setup is still holding around the 8.125" crank + 3.8" jackshaft turning a 36:30 cogged rear overdrive. i'm just at the limit of my injectors & stock bottom end.
So I have a very large PNR aluminum trunk tank for my 2650 and was wondering, do you guys know if there is a tank that fits in the middle area (where people put a sub box) or something more compact? Current tank is 6 gal. Smaller would work even
Is this for a C5 Corvette? I’m in the process of doing an Interchiller on my 99 C5 and am wanting to do a Trunk Center-well mounted Reservoir with a CWA400 Pump.
looking back on it, i'd probably have left the battery up front & done a bigger rear tank like this.
yeah, it'd take a long while to chill it... but it'd also take forever to heatsoak.
looking back on it, i'd probably have left the battery up front & done a bigger rear tank like this.
yeah, it'd take a long while to chill it... but it'd also take forever to heatsoak.
Agree with it taking longer to heat soak. Your pump volume would dictate how long it takes to chill / heat up.
you could still put the battery in the trunk but in the right cubby. There is a kit for it.
holding up just fine so far. only had a couple track days on it since the top end swap, but i could get 10-15min into a session before having to ease up & cool down. i do also live in the Black Hills & do some 'enthusiastic' driving through those mountain roads a lot. no problems there. the only issue so far was last month at the annual Corvette rally, i started getting some ridiculous coolant & oil temps (250°ish)... turned out that i'm a complete retard & had accidentally turned my intercooler pump into a self-licking ice cream cone!
the KillerChiller has a ball valve that lets you block off the front heat exchanger (using only the freon to cool the fluid) or run the heat exchanger prior to the chiller... but i'd apparently accidentally set it to the third position that bypasses the chiller & exchanger - pumping it right back into itself (not even through the blower!!). once i figured that out, it's been great again.
as for your Whipple plans: good luck!! only one guy has custom-fabbed a Whipple onto a C5 about 10yrs ago (it was a yeller Z06 with a 3.3 blower). took a lot to make it work. i remember his because Whipple strung me along for ~6months about making a C5 kit then told me they gave up on it... so i bought the TVS.
if you're just now starting this project, i'd also suggest talking to blownbluez06. me, him, and Kincaid all worked together to build the first C5 KillerChiller setup... but then Bret took what he learned through 6 months of headaches with my car to improve the design for a kit he now offers.
this should also improve in a few weeks when i finally get a plenum spacer. that was one part of the last round of mods that fell off. the guy who made the originals ran into manufacturing issues and then got out of the hotrodding business altogether.
i recently found a new company making spacers for the TVS blowers, so i've got an order in with him & should have it in the next few weeks. this should decrease rotor heat & improve under-the-curve airflow.
holding up just fine so far. only had a couple track days on it since the top end swap, but i could get 10-15min into a session before having to ease up & cool down. i do also live in the Black Hills & do some 'enthusiastic' driving through those mountain roads a lot. no problems there. the only issue so far was last month at the annual Corvette rally, i started getting some ridiculous coolant & oil temps (250°ish)... turned out that i'm a complete retard & had accidentally turned my intercooler pump into a self-licking ice cream cone!
the KillerChiller has a ball valve that lets you block off the front heat exchanger (using only the freon to cool the fluid) or run the heat exchanger prior to the chiller... but i'd apparently accidentally set it to the third position that bypasses the chiller & exchanger - pumping it right back into itself (not even through the blower!!). once i figured that out, it's been great again.
as for your Whipple plans: good luck!! only one guy has custom-fabbed a Whipple onto a C5 about 10yrs ago (it was a yeller Z06 with a 3.3 blower). took a lot to make it work. i remember his because Whipple strung me along for ~6months about making a C5 kit then told me they gave up on it... so i bought the TVS.
if you're just now starting this project, i'd also suggest talking to blownbluez06. me, him, and Kincaid all worked together to build the first C5 KillerChiller setup... but then Bret took what he learned through 6 months of headaches with my car to improve the design for a kit he now offers.
I think I’ve seen a video of that Whipple C5. Based on referencing another Whipple ls1, looks like the 2.9 Whipple falls directly in front of the wiper cowl / 4th injector on its manifold when mounted to an LS1. I was also worried about fitment but I think I’m okay unless I’m missing something. I know the factory hood won’t clear.
Which company chiller are you talking about? Killer chiller, FI or Active chiller? I had a hellcat with an FI Chiller - sold the car, kept the chiller. Planning on hanging it behind the bumper license plate cavity underneath the bumper foam/frame rail - what do you guys think?
Awesome to see more PD C5s today! I also want the Whipple because it’s a Twin Screw. It’s cool.