i know this stupid question has been asked again and again, but i'd appreciate it if you guys could answer it one more time. Do you guys consider it dangerous to run nitrous on a vette. Cause its a hell of a lot cheaper han headers, an x pipe, hi flo cat, power programmer, etc. I just dont want to F up my car. Thanks :D :confused:

 

Hello

I have had a Nitrous Express "wet-shot" system installed during the wintertime and is very pleased with the result, its like a different car when spraying and I only spray 100 hp more...(so far...) Nitrous is as you said much cheaper than other ways of tuning and it gives a lot more power but yes it involves much more risks than conventional tuning. If you read under this forum you will see some problems experienced with nitrous, backfires, engine blow ups, blown headgaskets, holes in pistons etc.

If the nitrous system is thoroughly installed and used with common sense it should not be a problem thou...

I do not know how much knowledge you have of these systems but here is some thoughts from me personnaly. There is a guy on this forum who calls himself ICULKUN-5 and he seems to have a lot of knowledge about nitrous and I know he has experienced some "blows"...

If you are going to run with nitrous:
- Install an MSD rpm window switch (you can set the interval in which to spray) to prevent hitting the revlimiter (can cause severe damage to the engine, hole in piston, head gaskets etc.) and saving the drivetrain when launching.
- Instead of an mechanical "microswitch" under the gas pedal you might want to use a "electrical" switch on the throttlebody to activate the system so that it always turns off the system when you dont have full throttle.
- ALWAYS have the anti-spin system off when spraying nitrous because of things mentioned above.

I am sure you can get proffessional help from a dealer but with nitrous you have to be careful and know what you are doing because it can result in expencive "blows".

Hope I have been able to shine some light on your questions, don't hesitate to ask if you have any more questions.

//Tommy :cheers:

 

Just IM you :thumbs:

 

As long as you are spraying under 150, use a window switch if your manual, and put in NGK TR6 spark plugs, you should be problem free. You have a greater chance of someone opening up their door into your car then the N20 messing up. NX has a lifetime warrenty on there solenoids so you can take em off and send then in for a checkup/rebuild for free in the winter. Lots of people have been having problems with the electronic TPS switch for activation. Most have moved over to a mechanical micro switch behind the pedal.

Don't be scared, the only N20 stories you hear are horse stories. No one really tells good stories. For every bad story u hear, there are probly 10,000 good stories.


[Modified by Allgonoshow, 5:51 PM 4/25/2003]

 

Let me clear this up for you. The LS1/LS6 intake was not designed to carry fuel or nitrous; only air. With that being said, it is possible to spray n2o and fuel into the intake and have it distribute in the cylinders. Let me address the mishaps of N2O.

Backfiring: Backfiring happens when fuel puddles in the manifold. Fuel/ fuel vapor can stick to the inside of the manifold. The heat from the valves can ignite the fuel vapor in the manifold. This will cause a N2o backfire.

Melted Piston: Melting pistons happen when extreme detonation or an extreme lean condition happens. If fuel is not evenly distributed in the manifold with equal parts of N2O then this can cause a lean condition. Under normal circumstances N2O and fuel donot want to bond. This is the reason why it is important to have velocity in the manifold so the time the spray in the manifold is limited.

Detonation: Detonation occurs when the fuel ignites either before or after it is supposed to (when the piston is in the upmost position). This is either corrected by adjusting the timing (retarding) or running a higher octane fuel, which will burn slower in the combustion chamber. A rule of thumb is to retard one degree for every 50 FWHP you add over stock. This goes for other modifications as well. For example. If you have a 100 shot, intake (10FWHP), xpipe (5 FWHP) and cat back (10 FWHP), you should retard 3 degrees of timing. Retarding timing is accomplished via LS1 edit or with a MSD. Retarding the timing will adversely effect your Naturally Asperated performance slightly.

Hope this helps.

 

Nitrous is no problem for a vette..........just be safe and use RPM window unit to set the desirable RPM's No Hypercom, since that advances the timing and Nitrous dont go with that. Sparkplugs are very important as well.