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not sure if you would see a full second with only a 100. You may have to go to a 150. I would retard some timing, and run race gas when on the sauce. Rule of thumb is to retard 1 degree for every 50 FWHP.
I watched a guy run 11.4x with Nitto's and a 130 or 140 shot. He was in a 6 speed and I think he had some exhaust and a better air induction setup So with a 100 you could be kinda close. Make shure u put in NGK TR6 plugs and gap to about .42 . The factory plugs are a big NO NO! And always listen to ICULUKIN, he is on the wise around here with the N20. If you want to pull some timing, some guys are tricking out the AIT sensor and making the computer think that the air is hotter. Only prob with this is the car runs a little leaner(bad bad bad on the spray) but you can jet up the fuel side if you have a wet kit no prob. If not that then LS1 edit, but then you have that pulled timming constantly.
I have found that as a general rule of thumb with the corvettes, assuming the car hooks, that every 50 hp of spray you add, you can count on 4-5 tenths. So if you add 100 shot, you will be real close to your goal of 11.40's. You can run a 100 shot all day long on pump gas with out changing anything on the car, except the plugs, you want NGK TR6 plugs gapped at .038. Auto-tap the car and make sure you have no KR, and as long as you dont , spray away!! Your stock fuel system is good to about 550 rwhp. If you start spraying upwards of 150 - 200 shot, that is when you need to worry about timing and racing gas. :cheers:
I would say mid 11's easy. I have a stock vette with cutouts and race gas (100 oct) and 125 shot ran a 12.2 at 116mph on runcraps, so with nittos you should be down there.
I would say mid 11's easy. I have a stock vette with cutouts and race gas (100 oct) and 125 shot ran a 12.2 at 116mph on runcraps, so with nittos you should be down there.
That is about right, but even with Nittos your 60' times will only be in the 1.7-1.8 range. I was able to cut 1.9 60' times on run craps, so going to DR wasnt a big imporvment for me. Anyway, for every .10 you take off the 60' it is .20 at the end of the track. If you really want to shave time go to the ET street route. But remember traction means more stress on components. FYI the next thing to break is the output shaft on the diff ($2500.00) to replace.
A stock Ls1 with cat back, intake, drag radials + 150 shot should run in the high 11's to low 12's. RWHP should be in the 410-420 range with about 500 RWT. Now if you reduce the shot to a 100 then you will get a little less HP, about 25-35 less RWHP(380-390 RWHP), but where you lose big is the RWT (450 RWT). There is not much difference in RWHP between the Nx 100 jets and 150's. I would stick with the 100 you will run good times and reduce the stress on vital components.
And as always driver makes a differnence, expecially on the sauce.
Since you are an A4 you can get out cheaper then that if you just want to use a "push button" to activate and deactivate the system.
In that case you would not need a window or a micro switch!
if you only listen to one thing I suggest, DONOT put your nitrous on a button! Have an arming switch, and have the nitrous activated via WOT microswitch. This will make sure you have enough velocity in the intake to get the nitrous to the cylinders and have enough fuel so you don't go lean. For some reason, people think N2O is the cheap way to make power. I would say it is only a less expensive way. A wet kit new from NX is 529. Gen II upgrade is 450. Bottle Opener is 200. MSD window switch is 100. Do it right or its 4500 for a new shortblock.
On an a4 you do not haver to worry about missed shifts. In this case you would not need a window switch.
You can always press the button when your foot is all the way to the ground (WOT). You can always do what I did and mount the button under the pedal. This insures it is not depressed until wide open throttle.
I have made well over 300 passes on bottle. I even sprayed a dual stage for a while. All on a stock motor and over 250HP. Now I am running 10# with a D1SC. I know it is not for everyone, but rest assure anything under 125 is safe.
Also you can pick kits up for 300.00....matter of fact I have one for sale. All it is:
#6 Feed line
Single NOS Fogger Nozzle
Pills
NOS n2o solenoid
NOS fuel solenoid
All misc. lines and fittings.
10# bottle
All of it was on my car and projected me to a 10.9 @ 129 pilled at 130ish
Of coarse I have a window switch (I am an M12). If you are really interested, but it is not necessary. I personally have never seen an A4 with a window switch...ever!
If you only have a WOT switch you can cause severe damage when spraying on the streets. The reason is, you run in "3" mode, the gearbox handles the shifting. Now the problem is, say you spray from about 3000 rpm in 1 st gear, you will loose traction and when the tires start to spin the revs will accelerate very fast, then the gearbox will start to change to second gear at 5900 rpm, you still keep the throttle floored as usual, THEN THE GEARBOX WILL NOT HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO CHANGE TO SECOND GEAR WHICH RESULTS IN THAT YOU WILL HIT THE REV LIMITER BEFORE SECOND GEAR IS IN AND THAT WILL RESULT IN A BANG.
Believe me this exact scenario has happened to me...
An MSD Window switch is a cheap way of preventing this to happen, it is also very easy set the rpm range with different "chips" for when you want nitrous turned on/off.
I would never run nitrous without a window switch anymore!
a window switch isnt only for missed shifts. It is to ensure that you have enough air velocity in the intake to prevent puddling. Now granted it is not a requirement as I do not run one, but I am also launching my car a 5k, so I am positive the car won't bog.