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I know it looks a bit dirty but it comes pretty complete. It has a 10# bottle w/ high flow valve, blow down tube, gauge and bottle nut, two NOS N2O noids, a purge noid and a fuel noid and plenty of hose. I ordered a Harlan window switch also. So all I need is the relay (which I have) and some microswitches and toggle switches. :thumbs:
I figure I will try it as a dry kit and if that doesn't work well because of my Vortex intake I can convert it to wet.
:seeya Me too, me too! Mine goes down friday for a nitrous install. I picked up a nx wet kit from another forum member. I can't wait. Good luck to both you guys. I can't wait til we get some results on here. :hurray:
Do yourself a favor and set it up wet from the start so you dont have the headache of trying to get a dry system to work or possably hurting your motor or maf.
Will definitely test the noids first! Freezing the MAF and the smaller injectors on some years of Y bodies VS F bodies scares me on the dry kit but puddling, leaning out the rear most cylinders and the fuel noid failing scare me as well. I'm still on the fence but I think I will start out dry. If it's too lean I'll convert.
you have a better chance in leaning out with a dry kit IMO. Since you are adding fuel with a wet kit you are sure to get the proper amount of fuel when you are spraying; instead of relying on the injector.
you have a better chance in leaning out with a dry kit IMO. Since you are adding fuel with a wet kit you are sure to get the proper amount of fuel when you are spraying; instead of relying on the injector.
I think that's a good thing. with a wet kit the nitrous and fuel have to flow equally into the manifold and into each intakeport. That seems more risky. with a dry kit (and larger injectors) the fuel will be equally injected into the intake head ports and the nitrous is coming much further downstream near the intakebox so it has more time to mix with the air and flow equally into the manifold.
The way your car adds more fuel is by checking the Long term fuel trim tables at WOT. These tables change during your daily drive. You are now fooling your car into thinking it is lean, by spraying -20 degree gas, causing the car to flood the injectors to the last reading on your LTFT table. Besides, when nitrous comes out of the fogger it is at 900-1200 psi the back 2 cylinders are getting more nitrous anyway. The only way to ensure equal distribution of nitrous and fuel is to go direct port.
The way your car adds more fuel is by checking the Long term fuel trim tables at WOT. These tables change during your daily drive. You are now fooling your car into thinking it is lean, by spraying -20 degree gas, causing the car to flood the injectors to the last reading on your LTFT table. Besides, when nitrous comes out of the fogger it is at 900-1200 psi the back 2 cylinders are getting more nitrous anyway. The only way to ensure equal distribution of nitrous and fuel is to go direct port.
I agree 100% with direct port. but for cheap, easy power, dry and wet is the beest. I have larger injectors plus an ls1 edit for my nitrous tune. I should be rocking :)