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I hurt my back a couple weeks ago so my C5 has been sitting in the garage on hold, but finally last night I was feeling strong enough to jack it up and contine with the blower install. Anyway while I was fitting up the piping I had an idea for crank pinning, does anyone think it would work?
Here is a diagram:
Basically I'd run a 3/8" drill bit through the face of the crank bolt (at an angle), which would pass part way through the pulley and part way in to the crank. I'd then impact a machine bolt in (just something tight enough that it won't fall out, but I wouldn't bother threading the hole). I don't have a PS cooler on my car, and I have a straight shot at the crank bolt from under the car. I know its not hard to drop the steering rack, but this seems like it would take me 5 min to do (attempt).
I have to say this is probably the single biggest thing I dread about my install (A4 tranny) next to the radiator mod. Though Andy is sending me the new mounting brackets for the rad, so this aspect of the install should be much simpler...... I HOPE.
I would think that by going in at an angle you would get a vibration.It seames it would be off center ? I would try a few test with maybe a rubber wheel first off the car or something. I hope it works for you.
I looked into it and the trouble I ran into was that where you need to drill is too close to the outer edge of the bolt head washer to retain a cap/bolt. By using a bolt you will cause an imbalance/vibration at high speed. And fianally the worry factor...wondering 15K miles from now if it is still holding. Once you install the blower you cannot see the crank bolt very well to check on it. I don't know if using a bolt into 2 different metals is a factor but the balancer is Aluminum and the crank is steel. Besides the pinning was not as bad as it seems. and you'll know it's done correctly.
I don't think a few grams from the bolt head would throw balance off. Especially with a hex socket bolt, and if you drill from the inside out instead of the outside in. Loctite would be recommended also since it's not held in place by the crank bolt.
You might consider drilling at an angle along the joint instead of across, in order to get more pin mass across the seam of the pulley/crank.
I'm not overly worried about the balance issue, as the screw would be relatively light. I do wonder though, how hard is it to drill through the crank snout? Does it drill like any other metal or is it super-hard?
We have been able to pin the crank (and remove the bolt) without taking the rack out of the car.
You just need to loosen the 4 carriage bolts and take the bolts from the steering rack. Pry up on the steering rack to unseat it. Once you get the crank bolt loose you can move the rack by hand and take out the bolt.
At this point we use a right angle drill and pin the crank It is not hard to drill, and normal pressure on the back of the drill will do the the job. Just make sure the bit is sharp
It also looks like you would have an issue with sheering off the bolt, since it looks like there is not enough bolt in the crank.
No need to try it any other way. It would probably take longer then doing it the way i described above. Hope this helps
I had my pulley "pinned" on the side (of the pulley) and it was falling apart after a short time, Now I have the ATI Fluid pulley and it is "pinned" from the front so it is NOT going anywhere. My best advice is to do it from the front and you wont have any problems.... if you have to do it your way please let us know how it works out in say 10 or 20 thousand miles from now.