My Halltech 427 TT set up is coming to a close within the next month and will be tuned by Andy (A & A). However, I have a few questions and any help would be greatly appreciated.

What brand, stage and gap size of spark plugs do you recommend?

How many quarts of oil needed? Synthetic or non? Viscosity? (extremely humid and hot here)

Finally, how many miles required before the real fun begins?

Thank you in advance for any and all responses.

Respectfully,

Velocity Driven




[Modified by Velocity Driven, 4:17 PM 7/2/2004]

 

NGK TR6 comes gapped at .035... I recommend these plugs.

Mobil1 10W30... start with 6.5 quarts and check the dipstick after the first startup / cool down cycle.

I'd probably go easy on it for the first 500 miles or so

 

If its a fresh engine, make sure is dinosour oil for the first run at it before you run Synthetic..

Ditto the TR6's..

 

I would agree on the NGK's ... oil too ...

 

Put 1500 miles on my 383 Z06 TT before the fun started!

Waiting on the NGK's from Xtreme after they forgot them in my last order. They are usually excellent and there customer service is excellent so they are allowed one mistake

 

NGK's it is, dinosaur oil to start off with, and I'm not so sure that I can even wait 100 miles, but I'll try. Thanks alot guys for the responses. Corvette forum members are the best

A special thanks to Bill over at Xtreme who extended his services in the event that Protech (shop where my C5 project is being put together) couldn't finish up the project due to some unforeseen circumstances. Bill, agian, thank you.

vetteheadracer, I'm sure your in good hands.




[Modified by Velocity Driven, 8:48 AM 7/6/2004]

 

Some good recommendations but here are mine.

First the Haltech TT utilizes Garrett GT30 Turbos. GT housings are setup to be liquid cooled. I spoke with an engineer for Garrett the nite before A&A's Grand Opening at Andy's shop. The engineer explained to me that not running liquid through the GT housings is not the same as having a turbine housing not designed to be liquid cooled. The damage would be done over time not immediately..so no worries Jim just put those GT30s on...I know because I was one of the first people to drive it...that car seriously rocks..you will not be dissappointed in it.

Oh yeah so where am I going with this...now I remember. The water cooled bearing housings were designed to prevent the oil from "coking". So if you are going to run dyno oil in the motor while breaking in I would highly recommend that you contact Andy ask him to make sure that the water lines are hooked up to those Turbos, actually do this regardless if you run dyno oil or synthetic oil. The Garrett Engineer told me this and you have already indicated you live in a very hot area.

If it were my car I would drive it around for a bit with just the motor in it 500-1000 miles with dyno oil...without the TT on it. Then switch out the oil to synthetic and have Andy put the TT on. That is just me before going to WOT with a TT on the dyno on a virgin motor..but that is the way most cars come from the factory and that is the way Andy's car are setup, and it is also the way LPE does their cars...so I wouldn't worry about it. I am positive that if you have some sort of excessive oil consumption because your rings didn't seat properly during break in, that Andy would take care of you.

So maybe the best thing here is just to listen to YOUR TUNERS advice and nobody elses because he is going to be the one taking care of you and nobody else...unless you have a problem..then we will take care of you.
I don't think you will have a problem with Andy's customer service....it is A1.

 

Shinobi'sZ,

Great input, I'll certainly take the information you've kindly provided me into consideration. However, Jim used the the Turbonetics turbos before switching over to the Garretts (I have the Turbonetics). I'm not sure if that changes anything or not as I'm not familiar with the ins and outs of the GT-turbos vs. the Turbonetics turbos. In all honesty, I'm a baby barely learning to take childlike steps in the turbo world. So I hope that everyone will bare with me and my insignificant questions in the meantime. As for Andy over at A & A, I'm quite sure I'm in good hands with him and will take your advice by calling him and see what recommendations he has for me. Again thank you! I really do appreciate everyone's input


[Modified by Velocity Driven, 5:07 PM 7/6/2004]

 

My mistake I thought you were the guy who purchased Jim's car with the TT setup.

Your right Jim used a T3/T4 Hybrid Turbonetics Turbo with internal wastegastes. You should still make a crap load of power on a 427. If it were my setup I would upgrade to Garrett GT35Rs or a GT30-71 with .82 ARs on the Turbine...or a 60-1 or 60-2 Turbonetics Turbo with the same AR. Remember that the GT series have water cooled bearing housings and have a true dual ball bearing system vs. a 1 ball bearing system (Turbonetics uses a ball bearing on the compressor side but jurnal on the turbine side). Just a little bit better response between the two. The maps are similar in lbs per minute.

You must have bought Jim's last system before he left.


[Modified by Shinobi'sZ, 12:30 PM 7/6/2004]

 

My mistake I thought you were the guy who purchased Jim's car with the TT setup.


You must have bought Jim's last system before he left.


[Modified by Shinobi'sZ, 12:30 PM 7/6/2004][/QUOTE]

Jim mentioned that he was selling the Z06, but I had no idea that it had actually sold.........I wonder who lucked out.

I purchased the kit several months ago and have just been creeping along with the project (Murphys law). I'm excited though, I'm finally seeing the light at the end of the tunnel. The kit is like eyecandy to me and I'm hoping it'll perform as good as it looks. Shinobi'sZ, thanks a mil.

 

Dude your kit has the potential to make more power on a 427TT then we have seen. There are a couple of companies that are producing (RPMotorsports) TT systems and at least 2 new ones (Jose http://www.forcedinductions.com) and one I am not talking about yet, coming out in late Summer and the Fall. You could easily make 1100bhp with this kit.

 

I hope your right about the potential of the TT kit. I'll be happy with 800 plus to the wheels, but wouldn't be disappointed with 650 plus. I'll post up pics of the dyno graph, 1/4 mile slip, and vehicle once its all said and done.

 

The hp will not be limited by the Turbos or engine, it will be limited by the ability of the PCM to tune hp greater than 800, and most of all (even if your motor was 8.5:1) the octane requirements. If more people new how to mafless tune (myself included) it would be easier to get to higher power levels with the stock PCM. The Aussies don't tune with MAFs at all and they get very good results on LSx with the stock PCM. I think a couple of different programming options will be coming available to the C5s, the Fbodies use FAST and on board Wideband to tune. Lots of good stuff just go to get it working on the C5. You could also use water/alky injection and make 800rwhp with your motor and tt w/out the use of 104 octane or additive.

 

I haven't called Andy yet and should probably be asking him the question, but do you know if he is capable of doing the mafless tune? I would like to squeeze out as much hp as possible on 93 octane, but your right about the technology ever changing. I'll be patient and see what kind of programming options will be made available for the C5. I own the LS1 edit now, but do realize that it's still limited. As far as exceeding my projected target (800+)I'm not sure that I would go with a water/alky injection setup, but it isn't out of the question. However, NOS would probably be my preference and first choice to keep the internals at lower temperatures. As always you've been kind with your responses and have continued to provide me with great information. Have a good weekend.

 

Just put some street driven CYCLES on the clutch. McLoed is suggesting around 500 street driven miles on my dual-disc. I added a Ron Davis oversize radiator with oil cooler as a precaution as it can only help and not hurt. Good Luck

 

I would use the new Exedy clutch, John Altman had some problem with his McGleod holding up..although I think John Page took care of it, I still like the feel of the new Exedy Twin.

You will not use NOS with a Turbo...it is not an option..you will need water/alky injection and the most efficient IC available. I would even consider a liquid/air IC with a very large heat exchanger up front. The water/alky will give you the most effect and will have the effect of raising your octane level to 108-112 octane. It works the best, just not a lot of people into it yet over here. Andy has not tuned (to my knowledge) without a MAF yet...in fact very few people have that I have seen and probably none on this board. The stock PCM should be able to handle 800-850hp and thats it. But you will need high octane fuel and or water/alky injection with an IC operating at least @75% efficiency.

 

I'm making about 750 rwhp on pump gas and have the Mcloud dual disc clutch but the material on the clutch is not their regular organic material it is sintered iron and I have no clutch issues. As far as mafless tuning I'm building an LS1 TT for a 66 Nova. We are going run haltech engine managemant, it's supposed to be superior to the F.A.S.T. and similar Motec. I believe they are based in Australia. The guy building the motor will fab the manifolds, intercooler, wiring and engine management.

 

There you go!

 

Is the oil cooler for automatics only? Thank you for chiming in.

 

Could you provide a water/alky injection link to do my research. Thank you kindly sir. You're a great source of information. By the way, the engine is in, turbos are on. The carrier (4.10's........being replaced with 3.42's) will be dropped today. Taking off the old aftermarket Walbro pump and replacing it with a Racetronix fuel pump and BAP. Followed by installing the aluminum radiator and Halltech IC. Which will finally lead us to the Boost controller install. I'd have to say another two weeks if Murphy stays out of our way.