Headers required with S/C ????
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
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From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
Headers required with S/C ????
Adding a procharger soon...planning on LG longtubes...Do I really need them if I want say 540 RWHP ?
What if I want 600 RWHP ?
What will I gain with a P1-SC if I put the LG's on my Z06 ?
Thanks
What if I want 600 RWHP ?
What will I gain with a P1-SC if I put the LG's on my Z06 ?
Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 20,474
Likes: 2
From: Detroit
Do you really need them? No. Will they help? Most definitely. I would *strongly* caution you against getting the P1 if you are already thinking about joining the 600 rwhp club. Get the D1SC and save yourself a lot of money by not having to upgrade later. I couldn't be happier with my D1SC -- you can hardly even hear the blower just driving around town.
One thought is that if you are going to spend $2K on headers you might be better off spending an extra grand instead on forging the motor so you can safely run high boost.
Good luck,
Mark
One thought is that if you are going to spend $2K on headers you might be better off spending an extra grand instead on forging the motor so you can safely run high boost.
Good luck,
Mark
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
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From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
Good idea. What exactly is the difference between the P1 and D1 ?
I know the P1 is smog legal in California....Not sure on the D1 ???
Well...I ordered the headers so I am good there I suppose. Now I must decide on this P1 / D1 issue and I will forge the internals if I go D1.
Anyone know the max RWHP you can safely get out of the P1...with heads, cam, headers vs. the D1
I know the P1 is smog legal in California....Not sure on the D1 ???
Well...I ordered the headers so I am good there I suppose. Now I must decide on this P1 / D1 issue and I will forge the internals if I go D1.
Anyone know the max RWHP you can safely get out of the P1...with heads, cam, headers vs. the D1
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,045
Likes: 3
From: Bridgewater Ma
Headers and blowers do mix(look at my sig)..For some people D1's are not the right choice,some they are.The P1 will hold the belt better and can push out 600rwhp easy enough.D1's step ratio can cause belt slippage due to the load placed of the belt to spin the blower.So it's a 50/50.
FYI- I was at the dyno today and did some playing around with tuning and pulled 580hp/530tq out of my setup(stock motor)
then put the old tune back in since I limited myself to 500hp till I do a forged lower end 
FYI- I was at the dyno today and did some playing around with tuning and pulled 580hp/530tq out of my setup(stock motor)
then put the old tune back in since I limited myself to 500hp till I do a forged lower end
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,060
Likes: 3
From: Dublin CA
Originally Posted by C54EVER
Good idea. What exactly is the difference between the P1 and D1 ?
I know the P1 is smog legal in California....Not sure on the D1 ???
I know the P1 is smog legal in California....Not sure on the D1 ???
P1SC is CARB legal up to 5psi. Nobody runs that low, but smog doesn't test for boost level.
Last edited by blu00rdstr; Jul 30, 2004 at 01:52 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 20,474
Likes: 2
From: Detroit
You do not need to forge your motor to use a D1. The amount of boost / power level you get out of any blower is largely determined by the pulley size. I run the 4.5 pulley on my D1 on a stock motor. I kept the stock H/C and had a safe tune ( a little rich ) to keep the hp not more than 510 rwhp to preserve my motor.
As for belt slip ... Get the ECS or A&A kits and forget about belt slip.
Mark
As for belt slip ... Get the ECS or A&A kits and forget about belt slip.
Mark
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
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From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
Thanks guys...The LG's, Hi-flow Cats, X-pipe are enroute. Looking at a S/C install from Andy at A&A around November. I will most likely do the P1, if the D1 is not CARB / Smog legal in California.
Would like to get to 600 RWHP...safely...eventually....
Plan as follows.....as funds become available that is...wish I could do it all at once but not feasible....
Step 1. S/C and header system, with safe boost and tune till Step 2
Step 2. Forged block & Blower Cam
Step 3. Radiator, Clutch and Output shaft
Step 4. Heads
Can anyone give me a RWHP range with that plan ?
Anything else I should add to "The Plan" besides tires
Bill...cool pic...thanks for the input I will have more question for you at the next GTG for sure.
Would like to get to 600 RWHP...safely...eventually....
Plan as follows.....as funds become available that is...wish I could do it all at once but not feasible....
Step 1. S/C and header system, with safe boost and tune till Step 2
Step 2. Forged block & Blower Cam
Step 3. Radiator, Clutch and Output shaft
Step 4. Heads
Can anyone give me a RWHP range with that plan ?
Anything else I should add to "The Plan" besides tires
Bill...cool pic...thanks for the input I will have more question for you at the next GTG for sure.
Last edited by C54EVER; Jul 30, 2004 at 01:54 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,060
Likes: 3
From: Dublin CA
Estimated horsepower per step:
1. 470rwhp
2. 530rwhp
3. 530rwhp
4. 550rwhp
You'll need gauges ($350), bigger injectors and fuel system ($1,000). Adding headers ($1,500) should get you to about 590rwhp. Dynotuning at steps 1, 2, 4 will be $500 each. Somewhere in there you'll start thinking about tubbing ($3,500 with new wheels/tires) or street drag radials ($500).
Manteca? I'd give you a ride, but it's down waiting for the replacement FLP L5 trans.
1. 470rwhp
2. 530rwhp
3. 530rwhp
4. 550rwhp
You'll need gauges ($350), bigger injectors and fuel system ($1,000). Adding headers ($1,500) should get you to about 590rwhp. Dynotuning at steps 1, 2, 4 will be $500 each. Somewhere in there you'll start thinking about tubbing ($3,500 with new wheels/tires) or street drag radials ($500).
Manteca? I'd give you a ride, but it's down waiting for the replacement FLP L5 trans.
Last edited by blu00rdstr; Jul 30, 2004 at 02:00 AM.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
From: Introducing teh Offical Car of your dreams
Originally Posted by blu00rdstr
Estimated horsepower per step:
1. 470rwhp
2. 530rwhp
3. 530rwhp
4. 550rwhp
You'll need gauges ($350), bigger injectors and fuel system ($1,000). Adding headers ($1,500) should get you to about 590rwhp. Dynotuning at steps 1, 2, 4 will be $500 each. Somewhere in there you'll start thinking about tubbing ($3,500 with new wheels/tires) or street drag radials ($500).
Manteca? I'd give you a ride, but it's down waiting for the replacement FLP L5 trans.
1. 470rwhp
2. 530rwhp
3. 530rwhp
4. 550rwhp
You'll need gauges ($350), bigger injectors and fuel system ($1,000). Adding headers ($1,500) should get you to about 590rwhp. Dynotuning at steps 1, 2, 4 will be $500 each. Somewhere in there you'll start thinking about tubbing ($3,500 with new wheels/tires) or street drag radials ($500).
Manteca? I'd give you a ride, but it's down waiting for the replacement FLP L5 trans.
