Isn't that a sign of crankcase pressure and ring failure? I'd be concerned.

 

Mike,
Easy fix for dipstick would be to simply put a spring from the handle to the bracket on the tube. That trick was compliments of the Vette doctors crue.

There is a 4.75" pully availible but I would just suggest short shifting when it's cold out.

 

If you want a cheap and shur meathod of limiting the boost, then put a removable restriction into the intake before the blower this will restrict the blower and is a lot more energy efficent than dumping boost. this will unload the blower thus reducing the crank load and stress on the motor.

More Than Zero

Ps: this will also just limit the upper rpm boost not the lower rpm (will not work well on a mag)

 

To..... EVERYONE..... Thanks soo much for all the terrific suggestions. Doug, I'm going to do the spring trick & *try* to keep my foot out of it to avoid un-restricted boost.

I'll also look into doing the restrictor in front of the blower too... sounds like a good tip!!

As for the heads & gaskets..... right now that's just WISHFUL THINKING on my part. Not that I don't want them, but the wife will surely KILL ME DEAD if I do that mod now.

Doug, I'll give ya a call later to order up that Alky setup..... heck if you still have my credit info & shipping address.... you're welcome to make arrangements to send it out today! But, I'll understand if you want to wait to hear from me first.

Thanks again folks!!!

 

ummm, yeah! hey doug, dads01 said to order me one too! and a round of beers for everyone!

 

Mike,
M T O's suggestion is a good idea also. Paxton has been doing this for some time now.As a matter of fact I have a few of their restrictors here. You can put it in line for the winter and take it out for the summer. fast, and cheap (unlike our alky kits ) The last car I took it out of brought it from 7-8 lbs. to around 10 lbs. So the opposite should work for you. Without loosing any bottom end unlike changing pully's.

 

If you have the vortech bypass valve, you can easily bleed boost off. Search for one of my old posts on the topic!!!



Terry

 

Doug,

What will this do to the tune? I'm assuming nothing because the air is metered beyond that point. Is that correct?

Matt

 

Matt, I have not tried this yet in the opposite direction, lowering boost insted of raising, but I would not think so. Maybe dads01 will be a guinny pig?

 

I'll give ya a call this evening Doug.... thanks again.

 

You might consider fabricating a restrictor on the intake of the blower, this should put a ceiling on max CFM. This would be an experiment.Don't do the spring on the dipstick unless it's a temporary fix. The next thing to go will be your rear crank seal which may not reseat - the dipstick acts as a circuit-breaker. Instead replace the oil fill cap with a breather.

 

The solution for the dipstick is to vent the crankcase properly under boost. Depending on your PCV setup, the pressure (from blowby) probably has nowhere to go right now.

Some blowby is normal. Can't really avoid it on a boosted motor.

 

Hey Quick.....

I went looking around the engine compartment today, is the PCV located on the driver's side valve cover? If so.... what's it look like? I thought I found it, but it didn't "rattle" like a traditional PCV I'm used to seeing in times past.

I see a hose has been run from the passenger side valve cover to the air filter just before the blower, but I'll be darned if I can find the actual PCV valve.... is it removed when a blower is installed???

I REALLY NEED TO GET A SHOP MANUAL FOR THIS CAR!!!.

Heck, do you know if GM ever put the manual on CD? I've ordered my alky kit this evening, might as well get a shop manual too! Anyone know where I can order one?

Thanks guys!

 

If you're still running with the factory PCV valve that could be why you are blowing out the oil dip stick. You'll need a strong check valve to prevent pressurizing the crankcase. You would otherwise find it on the passenger side of the intake up by the throttle body. You can trace it from the right rear valve cover port. Running across the top of the valve cover is a hard line 3/8" made of black plastic. near the front you'll see a ground wire attached to the cyl. head. That's the PCV. The wire grounds it from staic discharge.

 

Hey Dr.,

Thanks for the info! I'll do a little hunting tomorrow, sadly I didn't perform my own install of the blower (ECS did a terrific job for me).... so I honestly don't know what was done with the stock PCV valve? :o

Know where I can get a factory shop manual, preferably on CD??

 

Is the car showing knock?

My Z06 is showing 9+ psi of boost when it cold, but the car is still showing no knock..

I am just wondering what the panic is about with 10 psi, unless the car is showing knock or some other problems.

I would not think that 10 psi is going to blow a head gasket or anything, when you are going through the gears the car only sees that boost for a split second.

 

My afr is set good, but that was in the summer.... now with colder air and much more boost I don't know how the tune is working??

I don't have the ability check for knock, yet.

My bigger issue is the dipstick popping out and is clearly indicative of excessive pressure within the crankcase. I know the rods & pistons are the achilles heel on these motors..... I just want to avoid any serious issues before this situation gets expensive.

 

I think the real issue is pistons.. if you are not showing any knock then you should be ok.

I guess that is really the difference, being able to check it. If you had your car tuned by one of the big players, I am sure it is safe, I discussed the amount of timing they run and they are running VERY conservative timing.

If you are interested in being able to check it, I would really recommend a wideband like the one I run and some sort of scanning software at a minimun. The wideband controller I use is a zeitronix from www.zeitronix.com and then I would recommend HPtuners from www.hptuners.com, I have LS1 Edit, but seems that HP is the way to go for the best of both worlds.. good scanner and now the ability to use a wideband directly with it.

This is not meant as a shot at any tuner, but I encourage everyone to have this software and the ability to check the tune that is in your car, whether you put it there or not. The $600 you spend on the monitoring software, etc. is going to be much cheaper than a new motor. Of course you do have to have a laptop.

I think by the time you spend time and money trying to limit boost, you can get the stuff to check your tune and verify that it is safe.

 

What your really looking for is a properly designed pressure regulator valve with a low rate spring.
If the L/D is correct the valve will not shuttle back and forth it will crack at a pre determined pressure such as 7 psi and will bleed off the excess pressure as it builds. (the more psi the further the valve cracks open).
We have used these in automatic transmissions for years and other pressurized applications.
As for the excessive heat, well there will be little or none since what really generates the heat is the resistance to the flow of what ever is trying to be compressed.
Remember the blower speed is not increased only the air density.

 

Personally, I think the product discussed in the following thread would be an excellent restrictor.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=945693