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To take off/put back on, my tires by hand. This means I can only estimate the tourque, or tighten as tight as I can. I have done this with many other cars, but this is not just any other car.
In my opinion it is a bad idea. I would tighten them as best I could and then drive to a local wheel shop and ask them to torque them properly for me even if it meant paying them. Cheap insurance . . .
In my opinion it is a bad idea. I would tighten them as best I could and then drive to a local wheel shop and ask them to torque them properly for me even if it meant paying them. Cheap insurance . . .
sorry patches I will disagree with you.
most shops will actually over tighten your lug nuts.
i pull my tires by hand all the time, just make sure you torque em' down good and after drivig 100 or so miles, do it again.
and when you torque em' do it in a criss-cross pattern.
Beam-type. Separate English and Metric scales. Graduated indicator tip offers line-on-line reading to help eliminate parallax error. Torque accurate to 4 percent. $29.99
Beam-type. Separate English and Metric scales. Graduated indicator tip offers line-on-line reading to help eliminate parallax error. Torque accurate to 4 percent. $29.99
You can't swing $29.99 to do it right?
See how useless I am, I never knew of this tool. I thought I would need to buy a hydraulic tool. Thanks, off to sears!
you refering to tightening the lug nuts thecorrect amount? Just buy a torque wrench...
Hell I can even calibrate it for you if you wana get realy acurate... I change my wheels and tires before and after the trips to the 1/4, which reminds me, I have to take the drs off and mount the chromies back on and it is 70 here today!!!
Dave
PS do not get a bar type, get a twisting handle indicator type, and it will eliminate error due to line of site. Snap on, sears ect and most physical and dimension test equipment is calibrated to 10%. I am not a PMEL Tech anymore, but I played one on TV
most shops will actually over tighten your lug nuts.
i pull my tires by hand all the time, just make sure you torque em' down good and after drivig 100 or so miles, do it again.
and when you torque em' do it in a criss-cross pattern.
I'll disagree with your disagreement. Notice I recommended a "wheel shop". Most custom and aftermarket wheel shops are sticklers for properly mounting tires and torqueing lugnuts because it is their primary business. It's tire shops, car dealer service departments and sloppy independent mechanics that I've had trouble with.
I should have said "premium" wheel shop but I assumed (probably wrongly) that's what would be understood. Also this whole discussion is based on his not having or knowing how to use a torque wrench. Several here have suggested getting one which I, of course, endorse. Failing that, I would trust a high-end wheel shop to get me by until I bought my own.
Let me also add that, as a mech. engineer, I when people disregard torque specs. But that's just me.
I have been tightening mine by hand, for years. You just get a feel for it.
And I don't mean tighten them as tight as you can. I believe my dad called
the setting, "good and snug"! If you adopt this approach, its a good idea
to check them a month or so later to make sure they're still secure.
I'll disagree with your disagreement. Notice I recommended a "wheel shop". Most custom and aftermarket wheel shops are sticklers for properly mounting tires and torqueing lugnuts because it is their primary business. It's tire shops, car dealer service departments and sloppy independent mechanics that I've had trouble with.
I triple disagree and reagree with the origonal post of wheel places doing them too tight.
I had my new tires put on by a Goodyear store of all place.....(Goodyear, the maker of stock C5 tires to begin with) and not only did they put them on too tight, but they got my back two rims crossed.
The sensors were reading opposite air pressure. Said the back left was off, when in reality it was the back right. I had to take it back and have them keep the switch the rims with the tires. The right tires were on the wrong rims and rims on the wrong sides....
I agree that this is a DYI thing, but as with all DYI projects, proper tools and techniques are important. Get a torque wrench and tignten them to 100ft/lbs using a star pattern (I bring them up to 100 in 3 passes, 1st to 50, 2nd to 75 and last to 100). Then check them a week or so later just to be sure they stay properly torqued.
Remember the proper torque is not so much so the wheel will stay on, but to distribute the forces evenly on the brake rotor. If you get all the studs tightened to the same torque you should be OK, but if not you could get the dreaded warped rotor...
If you don't own a torque wrench, or if you do own one, but don't know how to calibrate it yourself, take it to someone who does. Tire changers at most tire places are guys who couldn't get a job at McDonalds asking "want to supersize that?", so I definitely wouldn't trust them. I have watched them change commercial truck tires and tractor tires and compact car tires without ever changng the torque setting on their air wrenches and some commercial truck and tractor tires require several hundred ft lbs of torque that would snap the lugs on most cars.