Need Help Now
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 731
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From: I'm a Texan, but I traded the horse for the Vette.
Need Help Now
I have my wheels off of my car to paint the calipers, and I also wanted to lower it while they were off. I can seem to get the front nuts to close the space. They seem like they don't want to move, it's a 1998 model so they might have some ageing but still, what should I do? It's 4:30 right now and I need to be at work at 6. Please Help!!!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,651
Likes: 9
From: HOW FAST WAS I GOING OFFICER? Los Angeles Hating GM Dealership Service Dept.'s Since Sept. 2004
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Did you take the tension off the spring? I jacked up the car, put a jack stand under the spring, lowered the car onto the jack stand and turned the bolt (I guess the term would be tightened it).
Did one car a couple of weeks ago, driver's side was a bizatch. Pass. side to 15 seconds. But the spring went "Twang" when I took the tension off it or the pass. side, not the driver's side. Hope this helps.
Dave Q.
Did one car a couple of weeks ago, driver's side was a bizatch. Pass. side to 15 seconds. But the spring went "Twang" when I took the tension off it or the pass. side, not the driver's side. Hope this helps.
Dave Q.
Last edited by MyVetteDream; Feb 10, 2005 at 05:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 731
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From: I'm a Texan, but I traded the horse for the Vette.
I didn't have enough time 
I'm just going to do it all over tomorrow. Anymore help or other suggestions just in case is always appreciated, thanks ya'll
I'm just going to do it all over tomorrow. Anymore help or other suggestions just in case is always appreciated, thanks ya'll
Lepus-temperamentalus
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 5,827
Likes: 5
From: Roswell Ga
You will need to remove the front wheels for adequate access to the front adjustment bolt. You may be able to get to it without removing the wheels, but it will be very difficult. Block the rear wheels, jack up one side of the front of the car and place a jackstand under the front crossmember. Remove the wheel.
You will see a 10 mm bolt, that is only accessible from the top. Turn the bolt COUNTERCLOCKWISE (as if you were loosening it). This bolt is counter threaded. If you are using a 3/8 inch drive and a socket, you will not be able to adjust it the whole way down and still be able to remove the socket. The shock will be in the way. You will need to use an open end wrench for the last part of the adjustment. You can put your finger under the a-arm to feel the gap in the bushing decrease as you adjust. You should not run the bolt the entire way to the bottom, or you will end up with a very harsh ride. Replace the wheel, retorque the wheels to 100 lb/ft. and do the same proceedure on the other side.
You will see a 10 mm bolt, that is only accessible from the top. Turn the bolt COUNTERCLOCKWISE (as if you were loosening it). This bolt is counter threaded. If you are using a 3/8 inch drive and a socket, you will not be able to adjust it the whole way down and still be able to remove the socket. The shock will be in the way. You will need to use an open end wrench for the last part of the adjustment. You can put your finger under the a-arm to feel the gap in the bushing decrease as you adjust. You should not run the bolt the entire way to the bottom, or you will end up with a very harsh ride. Replace the wheel, retorque the wheels to 100 lb/ft. and do the same proceedure on the other side.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 12
From: Vancouver
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
You will need to remove the front wheels for adequate access to the front adjustment bolt. You may be able to get to it without removing the wheels, but it will be very difficult. Block the rear wheels, jack up one side of the front of the car and place a jackstand under the front crossmember. Remove the wheel.
You will see a 10 mm bolt, that is only accessible from the top. Turn the bolt COUNTERCLOCKWISE (as if you were loosening it). This bolt is counter threaded. If you are using a 3/8 inch drive and a socket, you will not be able to adjust it the whole way down and still be able to remove the socket. The shock will be in the way. You will need to use an open end wrench for the last part of the adjustment. You can put your finger under the a-arm to feel the gap in the bushing decrease as you adjust. You should not run the bolt the entire way to the bottom, or you will end up with a very harsh ride. Replace the wheel, retorque the wheels to 100 lb/ft. and do the same proceedure on the other side.
You will see a 10 mm bolt, that is only accessible from the top. Turn the bolt COUNTERCLOCKWISE (as if you were loosening it). This bolt is counter threaded. If you are using a 3/8 inch drive and a socket, you will not be able to adjust it the whole way down and still be able to remove the socket. The shock will be in the way. You will need to use an open end wrench for the last part of the adjustment. You can put your finger under the a-arm to feel the gap in the bushing decrease as you adjust. You should not run the bolt the entire way to the bottom, or you will end up with a very harsh ride. Replace the wheel, retorque the wheels to 100 lb/ft. and do the same proceedure on the other side.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 12
From: Vancouver
2015 C5 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10
Originally Posted by JACKAL0PE
You will need to remove the front wheels for adequate access to the front adjustment bolt. You may be able to get to it without removing the wheels, but it will be very difficult. Block the rear wheels, jack up one side of the front of the car and place a jackstand under the front crossmember. Remove the wheel.
You will see a 10 mm bolt, that is only accessible from the top. Turn the bolt COUNTERCLOCKWISE (as if you were loosening it). This bolt is counter threaded. If you are using a 3/8 inch drive and a socket, you will not be able to adjust it the whole way down and still be able to remove the socket. The shock will be in the way. You will need to use an open end wrench for the last part of the adjustment. You can put your finger under the a-arm to feel the gap in the bushing decrease as you adjust. You should not run the bolt the entire way to the bottom, or you will end up with a very harsh ride. Replace the wheel, retorque the wheels to 100 lb/ft. and do the same proceedure on the other side.
You will see a 10 mm bolt, that is only accessible from the top. Turn the bolt COUNTERCLOCKWISE (as if you were loosening it). This bolt is counter threaded. If you are using a 3/8 inch drive and a socket, you will not be able to adjust it the whole way down and still be able to remove the socket. The shock will be in the way. You will need to use an open end wrench for the last part of the adjustment. You can put your finger under the a-arm to feel the gap in the bushing decrease as you adjust. You should not run the bolt the entire way to the bottom, or you will end up with a very harsh ride. Replace the wheel, retorque the wheels to 100 lb/ft. and do the same proceedure on the other side.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,038
Likes: 0
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07
Looks like Jackalope has you fixed up, but if you need more, PM Patches,
he has very good pics/instructions on this process! Good luck!!
I found it, this is the fronts (courtesy of Patches);
he has very good pics/instructions on this process! Good luck!!
I found it, this is the fronts (courtesy of Patches);
Last edited by Vetteran; Feb 11, 2005 at 12:09 AM.
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