Question for engine modders
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: AKA Harvey Mushman-I know just enough to be dangerous "Those who sacrifice liberty for safety deserve neither"- B. Franklin
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Question for engine modders
I plan on owning my '04 MN6 Z51 vert for quite a few years. I did the racing stuff when I was younger and now prefer to watch or play along lightly. (No slicks on the weekend) I have always done my own work so I would be doing everything except the tuning. I think that I will not get an extended warranty because they all say no serious engine mods. I bought my car to enjoy frequently,play with, and (now that the kids are going to college) take trips with my wife- some of them long. I would like to ask those that have done more serious mods why they chose the route they did. Right now the car only has an X pipe and PRTs. The way I currently see it, I have two options would cost about the same.
1-S/C with lower boost,tuning, everything else stock.
2- AFR heads, cam that would pass emissions, longtubes, HF cats, tuning.
I would like near stock reliablity and more HP than a damn Chrysler 300.
Experts chime in please.....
1-S/C with lower boost,tuning, everything else stock.
2- AFR heads, cam that would pass emissions, longtubes, HF cats, tuning.
I would like near stock reliablity and more HP than a damn Chrysler 300.
Experts chime in please.....
Drifting
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From: Naperville, IL
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I am not an expert, but decided to boost my '04's hp about 7 months ago. After reading posts for about 2 months in both the C5 tech, general and FI forums, I went with an intercooled Magnuson s/c - and am very happy with it - very smooth, instant ton of torque available from 2,000rpm up (456 lbft) and no noticeable effect on driveability or highway cruising mpg. The centrifical units can make much more power, but it comes on ~4,000rpm. The head/cam route is likely to produce less power unless you go to a radical grind and will provide more of its increase in the higher rpm ranges too. As per my sig, mine is set up similar to yours with the exception of lt headers (good for ~30 more hp). Ideally, try to drive one of each set-up and pick the one you like best. Whichver way you go - a professional tuning is essential, both to maximize power and to get the driveability you want.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: St. Louis Mo.
St. Jude Donor '08
I would go with the H/C. I went with cam only becuase that's all I had the bucks for at the time. Hope to add heads sometime but real happy right now. I went with a Comp cam 224/581/114 and a tune. I already had headers, LS6 intake, Blackwing, and B&B exhaust. I don't have dyno numbers but it pulls like a tractor. But the main thing is the SOUND. It has a slight lope at idle, but WOT is ADDICTIVE. I do a couple of HPDE a year at Road America and it is just too 
at WOT down the front straight.
Either choice is good, just kinda depends on what you are looking for. Cost will be close to the same with install and parts.
You will probably get a ton of different opinons, but that is the beauty of this forum.
Good luck, and keep us informed on what you decieded.
Tim
at WOT down the front straight.Either choice is good, just kinda depends on what you are looking for. Cost will be close to the same with install and parts.
You will probably get a ton of different opinons, but that is the beauty of this forum.
Good luck, and keep us informed on what you decieded.
Tim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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From: AKA Harvey Mushman-I know just enough to be dangerous "Those who sacrifice liberty for safety deserve neither"- B. Franklin
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Robert, You just gotta love that 465HP in your profile. How is your clutch holding up? Tim, if I go your route, I plan on the whole shot at once. I can't say when, but my thought is that one teardown is easier/quicker/cheaper. I'd imagine the LTs go on much easier with the heads off. I'm very interested in people's long term reliablility/extra maintainence stories with either setup. I also appreciate that this hasn't turned into a debate. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Coal Valley IL
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I have one of the early ATI P1SC Prochargers. It has been through many changes and revistions. The radiator was lowered to allow the air intake to go over the radiator. I have switched to the MMS blower bracket and now have the A&A bracket.
The car is very strong and the only problem I have had is tearing up a 3.42 rear differential. No problems with the motor. The blower has been on the car for 2-1/2 years, 10k miles, and numerous 1/4 passes.
If I were to do a blower now, it would be an intercooled mag or the ATI from A&A or ECS. Proper tuning is an absolute must if you choose forced induction.
I suspect that it may be slightly less expensive for you to do H/C/logtubes/intake versus a blower.
The car is very strong and the only problem I have had is tearing up a 3.42 rear differential. No problems with the motor. The blower has been on the car for 2-1/2 years, 10k miles, and numerous 1/4 passes.
If I were to do a blower now, it would be an intercooled mag or the ATI from A&A or ECS. Proper tuning is an absolute must if you choose forced induction.
I suspect that it may be slightly less expensive for you to do H/C/logtubes/intake versus a blower.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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From: AKA Harvey Mushman-I know just enough to be dangerous "Those who sacrifice liberty for safety deserve neither"- B. Franklin
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Thanks John. One thing that I don't want is to go through "many changes and revisions". I only want to go through it once plus maintanence.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2000
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In my opinion, FI is more of a stealth approach, but much more costly. H/C with a decent cam takes a bit of stealth away, can cost much less. As you can see in my sig. I like C.I. with H/C plus a bit of N20 on the stroker.
I think you need to decide on how much power you want to make. From there, decide how you want the car to behave in order to make your power goal. Camed and jamed or blown and smooth. Hope that helps.
I think you need to decide on how much power you want to make. From there, decide how you want the car to behave in order to make your power goal. Camed and jamed or blown and smooth. Hope that helps.
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Drifting
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From: Naperville, IL
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Originally Posted by madeouttaglass
Robert, You just gotta love that 465HP in your profile. How is your clutch holding up? ...
The stock clutch is not ideal as you have probably surmised. It has been fine for most normal street driving, but I doubt it would take many drag runs. One of my friends took me up on an offer to let him drive it (he has 2 vettes) and he fed in too many revs between a 2nd and 3rd shift while pushing it hard and the clutch just spun hard against the flywheel and totaly stunk up the interior for a minute or two. Thankfully, it didn't appear to have done any permanent damage, but it certainly got my attention. Good luck with yours
Bob
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
I went with heads/cam because of my preference for N/A setup and a less painful cash investment up front. But your requirements would lead me to make a differnet choice. You didn't specifically lay out a budgetary constraint so I assume that's more of a tertiary priority to reliability and drivability. The FI route is a more expensive route than the N/A setup due mainly to initial outlay. If you install it yourself, you can save a substantial amount but the tuning will still be a cost factor.
Still, my choice, based on your requirements, would be the Magnuson S/C with I/C. It's a proven performer, is a less invasive installation, has a nice bypass system built-in for gentle, long highway cruises and you can even get a warranty with it. Also, there is no requirement to crack the motor open with the s/c option and these setups are designed for stock applications in their base forms. The hood swap has always been an issue with the Maggie but, with all the nice s/c hoods out there now, I wouldn't hesitate to go this route. The low end grunt is also a very attractive feature of the roots configuration - the torque curve is very tempting.
JMHO
Still, my choice, based on your requirements, would be the Magnuson S/C with I/C. It's a proven performer, is a less invasive installation, has a nice bypass system built-in for gentle, long highway cruises and you can even get a warranty with it. Also, there is no requirement to crack the motor open with the s/c option and these setups are designed for stock applications in their base forms. The hood swap has always been an issue with the Maggie but, with all the nice s/c hoods out there now, I wouldn't hesitate to go this route. The low end grunt is also a very attractive feature of the roots configuration - the torque curve is very tempting.
JMHO
Cherish your Hopes...
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From: West Palm Beach FL
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Patches
...your requirements would lead me to make a differnet choice. I wouldn't hesitate to go this route. The low end grunt is also a very attractive feature of the roots configuration - the torque curve is very tempting.
JMHO
JMHO
...I went S/c intercooled and figured if I wanted to crack open StuzVette later the option was always there......Enjoyed the SC and noinvasive approach...
Driveablility is not compromised and the later CAM is nice complement if you desire that later...