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Ceramic Pads

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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 04:34 PM
  #21  
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RDVT4ME
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From: The Usual Suspects Yorba Linda Chapter
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Evil-Twin

Your car and rotors look awesome!

If I remember correctly there is some maintenance required to keep your rotors looking that outstanding. This might be a good place/time to remind people what needs to be done to keep it looking that good.
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 05:31 PM
  #22  
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98vert6spd
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From: Lovin Life Oh
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
the only problem here is for any brakes to work properly the temps are WELL ABOVE 500* F

Not sure where this comes from but with personal use off all different kinds and types of brake pads on my different vehicals, ceramics were OK for normal stopping. HOWEVER, and this is a big however, cermaic pads do NOT WORK WELL IN EMERGANCEY AND/OR HARD BRAKING in these situations brake temps can exceed 1000* F and cause iron rotors to GLOW bright ORANGE.



Granted they are lower dust, but that is really the only advantage. Personally, washing wheels is not a big deal.



Peddle pulsating feelings or what some ppl think is a warpped rotors is, in most cases, the result of improper bedding of the new pad or new rotor cause an uneavel pad materal depostion on the rotor.

What is braking or slowing down anyway? it is the transfer of energy in motion, kinetic energy, to energy at rest, static energy. This energy trasfer or stopping is acomplished by friction to slow the car down and the resulting excess energy is HEAT. So by increasing the friction or abrasion between the rotor and brake pad, heat is produced and the car slows down.

Lots of great reading on the Big brake sites. Check out the Tech or FAQ sections.

http://www.stoptech.com and http://www.wilwood.com

in short Ceramic pads are OK for normal street driving, but not hard or any emergancy braking. and never for track time or a High Performance Drivers Education.


Ive got sportbrakes slotted and drilled with ceramics and now after 7 months i have a pulsating pedal

is there any way to fix it?

i thought it was warped rotors but afterreading what you say it may not be
up until this point theyve been silent and very very low almost dust free
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 06:31 PM
  #23  
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Brake Judder can be caused by alot of things. The number one reason usually isn't the brakes at all but the wheel torque.

Take of the wheels, caliper, and rotors. Get a wirebrush on a drill and clean the crap out of the front of the hub, do the same to the contact patch on the rotor itself.

Reinstall everything and snug up the wheels, then use a torque wrench to 100ft lbs in a star pattern. Hubcentric centering rings would be a good idea too.

That will probably not fix your judder problem, new pads first, then new rotors, the damage may already be done, but it still stop it from coming back on the new stuff.

I just did this with the car I bought when I swapped over to stock rotors for the track, you have to make sure the mating surface is perfectly smooth otherwise not only will your rotors not sit flush, but then if you overtorque or unevenly torque it just makes the problem worse.

You might have rotor run out that may not have been caused at all by your brakes directly, but from braking with incorrectly torqued wheels.

Oh, and for brake dust, buy black wheels
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 10:15 PM
  #24  
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From: Hoover Alabama
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Originally Posted by Evil Twin
Your car looks incredible....and don't think I didn't notice that hood scoop...Looks like a maggie hidden underneath! Hard to believe your rotors are four years old though!!!!! They look brand new! Have you had any cracking problems with them thus far. Lots of people have mentioned that the slotted rotors tend to crack!

Beautiful car bro!
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Old Jul 14, 2005 | 10:39 PM
  #25  
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From: 2007 Nat'l Corvette Challenge 11.50 index Champ. New Jersey
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Originally Posted by KODAK
I just put on some brand new ceramic delco's...WOW what a difference ON BRAKE DUST!! You will be happy with them. I don't have drilled rotors so I can't say anything good or bad regarding them. Good luck and enjoy your cleaner wheels!

Ron
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