I'm in the market for a new car. Right now I'm stuck between a new 350Z and a used C5. I'm currently leaning towards the C5. What kind of mileage is everyone getting out of a set of pads?

 

i'm at 50k and just replacing my front rotors & pads ... however I'm early.

go w/ the used c5 ... it's no comparison to a 350z.

 

I think the C5 pads last longer and cost less so you should buy the Vette.

 

I get at least 40,000 out of mine!

 

Brake pads????? Is this a deciding factor in your decision?? I'm sure you know what the answer will be here. Good luck

 

It's really not, but I was just curious. Some of the C5's I've been looking at are around the 40-50k mile mark. If I'm in that replacement window it is a cost consideration.

 

Replacing the rotors and pads with original equipment is going to cost about $300. This is not exactly a significant cost when buying a $45K auto. I would be more concerned about the condition of the tires ($1000-1200 to replace), the overall condition of the vehicle, how many owners, how the car was treated, if it was garaged, if it was ever raced, how often the oil was changed. This type of info will give you an indication of the significant costs that you may be facing such as a new transmission and various engine problems and make sure the rocker panels underneath the car have not been damaged due to improper lifting.

 

I don't think brake pads will cost you more than a few hundred... I made the exact same consideration and bought the Vette cause there's just a lot more power in the Vette. Over 60 hp and between 60 and 90 torque... I bought and extended warranty and paid a little more as I would have to get a new 350Z

 

For 13 years I drove a 1990 300ZX that I bought new and serviced mostly myself. Lemme tell you, the parts for that puppy were not cheap. I think a maintenance cost comparison is in order if you're looking at parts replacement as a major factor.

Here's a buying guide to help you with your used C5 search.


Check for the rocking seat, leaky rear end, headlight motors, and if it is a 6-speed get the column lock bypass kit if it is not installed already. After that, this should get you started

Documentation available? Window Sticker Build Sheet
Are maintenance records available?
Who maintained the car and where
Are maintenance or upgrade receipts available?
How many previous owners have there been?
Can the former owners be contacted?

Is it currently registered?
Does it have a current inspection sticker?
Will it pass state inspection?
Are there any modifications?
If equipped with standard transmission, has the clutch ever been replaced? If so, what mileage?
Has the car ever been in an accident or had bodywork done?
Has the car been kept garaged?
What have been the average driving conditions? (Sun only, rain, snow?)
Does the car need anything now?

Body Condition
1. Does the car sit level?
2. Check body panels for uniformity.
3. Check for body damage. Look at: Wheel wells, floor pan, rear hatch front and rear valance, fenders, quarter panels, uniform body molding. Check for paint over-spray in: headlights, gas door, door jams, fender skirts, engine compartment?. Is there evidence of body damage?
4. Is the paint oxidized
5. Has the car ever been repainted?
6. If so, why, by whom, and how long ago?
7. Does sides of the car appear aligned?
8. Are there any waves or stress cracks in the fiberglass?
9. Are there any dings or stone chips in the paint?
10. Are there any cracks or chips in the windshield or side and rear glass?
11. Do the doors open and close normally?
12. Do the doors and trunk lock and unlock correctly with the key?
13. Do the doors and trunk (if applicable) lock/unlock correctly with remote key FOB
14. Does the rear hatch glass open properly? From inside?
15. Do the struts hold the rear hatch?
16. Does the hood release work?
17. Does the color match the trim tag color code?
18. Are there missing badges, or moldings?

Chassis & Suspension
1. Are the tires in good condition?
2. Is tire wear uniform.
3. Are the wheels stock?
4. Are the wheels in good condition?
5. Are the brake rotors in good condition? (check for cracks or scarring)
6. Are there any wet spots under the car?
7. Are the rubber axle boots in good condition?
8. Inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints.
9. Inspect the shocks. Dry Wet If the shocks appear to be wet, they may be leaking and in need of repair.
10. Is the exhaust in good condition?

Interior Condition
1. Are all door, hatch, and top seals in good condition?
2. (If applicable) Is the ratchet wrench for the targa top there?
3. Are the seats clean? Torn or cracked? Worn?
4. xxxxx
5. Is the carpet clean? Worn?
6. Can you adjust the mirrors?
7. Does the interior light work? Does it work with the doors?
8. Is the dash in good condition?
9. Is the center console in good condition?
10. Does the glove compartment door work properly?
11. Do the windshield wipers function properly?
12. Does the overall interior condition match the mileage?
13. If equipped, does the tilt wheel work properly?
14. If equipped does the alarm work?

Engine Evaluation

3. Is the oil clean? Dark or black colored oil indicates a change is necessary and may be indicative of past maintenance trends.
4. When was the last oil change? ______________ Overdue?
5. Check for a leaking oil pan gasket.
6. Check for a leaking front/rear main seal.
7. Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage.
8. Check all coolant lines for leakage.
9. Check the coolant in the reservoir. A brown frothy mixture in the reservoir usually indicates oil and water mixing in the oil filter/cooler housing.
10. Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking.
11. Inspect the plug wires for brittleness or cracking.
12. Inspect the brake fluid for color. Black colored brake fluid indicates a change is necessary.
13. Is the air filter clean?
14. Is the engine bay clean and neat? All hoses / wiring in correct place?


Engine Operation
1. Does the car start properly?
2. The car should have a steady idle.
3. (If equipped) Check the ECM (computer)? Engine Codes recorded?
4. Is the oil pressure normal?
5. Engine coolant temperature: Normal? 6. Is there valve chatter or excessive engine noise? Yes No
7. Is there excessive engine vibration at idle or revving? (can indicate bad motor mount).
8. With the engine running, listen for leaks at the exhaust manifolds and exhaust.
9. Does the heat work?
10. Does the AC work? Is the compressor quiet?
11. Does the AC / heater blow at each speed?
12. Does the radio work properly (tape and CD if applicable)?
13. If equipped, does the power antenna work?
14. If equipped, do the power windows and door locks work?
15. Does the defroster work properly?
16. Do all ***** / controls function correctly?
17. Do all of the gauges / dashboard lights work properly?

Test Drive Evaluation
1. Does the parking brake work properly?
2. How does the brake pedal feel?
The following 3 questions assume manual transmission:
3. How does the clutch pedal feel? Firm Soft
4. Does the clutch operate in a smooth quiet manner?
5. Does the shifter seem tight?
6. Are there any squeaks / noises (specially over rough roads)?
7. Is the steering smooth and responsive?
8. When going straight is the wheel straight? Does the car drift to one side?
9. Brake with your hands off the wheel does the car stop straight?
10. At highway speeds does the car pull, or shake / shimmy?
11. Does the cruise control work properly?
12. Is there exceptional wind noise?
13. If equipped, does the ABS system function properly?
14. If equipped, does the Traction control system function properly?
15. If equipped, does the Selective Ride Control function properly?

Miscellaneous
1. Is the battery in good condition?
2. Do all lights / signals work correctly? Headlights?, (high and low beams), Brake lights: Parking/Side Marker Lights: Turn Signals:

 

I agree. I'd be looking at tires rather than brake pads.

I don't think, around here, you'll find people who've gotten all that much out of their pads just because half of us have changed our rotors to drilled/slotted and the other half races theirs and use stock pads and rotors and replace them frequently.

But I've found that Corvettes are really very practical cars. I'd never have believed it before I bought one, but they get good gas mileage (some people are reporting 30 mpg on the highway), they have good trunk space (particularly the coupe) and while you may have to pay the "Vette Tax" on some parts, compared with other exotic sports cars, they're cheap to fix and easy to work on yourself.

Or you can buy a 350Z and start looking for mufflers that look like Folger coffee cans.

 

If there is no pulsation when braking, no need to replace rotors. Pads are inexpensive and can be done in your driveway in about two hours.

 

Here's one not on your list:

Has all factory recall work been performed? Any Chevy service writer can pull that info up with a VIN. Not only will it list the date completed but the mileage of the vehicle at the time of the work as well.

..rickko..

 

I was looking at 350Zs before buying my current Vette and IMO there's just no comparison. The 350z is a nice car for the $$ but it's not a Vette.

 

not sure how many of the owners here had a 350z. I had one new since 2004 - daytona blue 6 spd.. had rims, spoiler, exhaust, intake, headers, pulleys. Car went 13.20s The car handled very nice, and the car yes the same as the vette has 2 seats. However, we are now in 2005 and see where my money has shifted .. to me I actually saved a few thounsand bc it was a better deal to get a used c5. To me there is no comparisson from a 350z to a vette.. much faster, handles the same, and to me the most important is the looks. If you would like opinions ( maybe the other biased view) I would encourage you to check www.my350z.com as that is the best site and forum for those cars. But since I had both I like the vette better. Hope this might help

 

A friend of mine got a new 350Z for his wife last Xmas. I stored it in my garage until Xmas eve so he could suprise her.

I don't street race, but he kept telling how fast this 350Z was. Last Sunday I took a short ride with him. I told him "Yes Sir, that's pretty fast." I did not want to break his bubble. His took that as my admitting that the 350Z was faster than the Vette.

I was obligated to give him a little ride. When I pulled out on the highway and hit second gear and then third, he quickly realized that the 350Z was no match for the Vette. My vette has 52K on the odometer, and is stock other than Corsa Touring Catbacks, VARARAM and Hurst shifter. I picked up a set of heads and cam from a forum member and they arrive on Friday. I guess I'll have to give him another ride when the H/C and headers are installed.

Bottom line, buy the Vette, you won't be sorry.

I smile every time I drive it!!!!!!

Bob K.

 

I'm actually a member of that forum and have been following the various other forums for a couple of months. Your not kidding about those sites being biased. If you've read the tales in their KILLS Section one can easily figure out everything must be taken with a grain of salt.

Z versus an 3rd gen Z28

"For the record I rarely ever do this on a street and I know the dangers of a street race but the temptation was just too great and I fell to weakness. I was following this mid 80's Z28 yesterday and as we was approaching a stoplight this idiot deliberately slowed down right as the light was changing. I switched lanes and the guy motioned for me to roll down the window. He said "nice car, looks slow" and started to rev up. Yeah I know i got a 5AT but i turned off the A/C and dropped to manual shift. Light changed and we both punched it. To make this story short he never stood a chance, his front end never reached the rear end of my car and by my third shift he was a car length behind. Back in the day I use to think those cars were fast. "

But, on rare occassion you come across this:

Corvette C5 Kill

"Sorry guys but I didn't kill the Corvette it had it's way with me which is expected. It was quite fun though. He came up behind me at a stop light just about 5 minutes ago and as soon as the light turned green he was over and trying to pass me so I said why not let get it on. I hit it in what was left of first and shifted shortly and cleanly to second but damn he had me. I gave it all I could. He slowed and we came to a roll of about 45 and I said ah what the hell one more time. Of course, the same cenerio we took off together pretty decent but in a matter of a few seconds he had a car length on me. Anyways, just thought I would let you guys know. Better go watch the movie with my girl before she gets too mad. "

 

C5C5

 

I also owned a 350Z prior to my first vette. A Daytona Blue Touring 6 speed. Nice car, but there ain't no way it compares to a Vette. I sold it after 6 months because it just didn't have the power. Moved into an 04 auto Vette which was a monster compared to my 350Z. Kept it 6 months too. Lotsa fun!! But, needed more. Now there is a big yella 03 Z06 parked in the garage. Yep, it's got enough!!! I'm done.
Good luck.

 

The C5 will run circles around the Z with 2 blown cylinders...........