Need help with Sub Install
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: New York Flemington
Need help with Sub Install
So search didn't yield anything useful, so I am asking here. I bought a sub and amp with a wiring kit today. Are there RCA outs on the stock head unit? I have the Bose system, and it's a Z06. Not sure if any of that really matters...
Does anyone have a good link to a full Subwoofer/Amplifier install? Where is the best place to get the source for sound from, the place for the accessory wire, and best location to ground, as well as run the wires?
HELP PLEASE
Thanks guys,
Joe Z
Does anyone have a good link to a full Subwoofer/Amplifier install? Where is the best place to get the source for sound from, the place for the accessory wire, and best location to ground, as well as run the wires?
HELP PLEASE
Thanks guys,
Joe Z
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Orlando FL
Cruise-In VI Veteran
here is the basic:
power wire from the battery to the trunk/amp, then the ground from the amp to the bolt holding down the seat (its a good ground, others will say its not! works just fine!) then connect the remote behind the radio, then to the amp! there you go, the amp is all set.
now... you will need a high/low converter if you are sticking with the BOSE stereo. the converter has spots for a (+) and (-) input, and also RCA output. you will need to splice and tap into the front speaker wires from behind the head unit, (R+) to the (R+), (L+) to the (L+), and both (-)'s to a ground. kinda confusing, but PM me if you need it explained better!!
then just run the RCA's from that high/low converter box to the amp. run speaker wires from the amp to the sub... and there you go! all done.
feel free to ask any more specific question!!
hope this helped a little!
power wire from the battery to the trunk/amp, then the ground from the amp to the bolt holding down the seat (its a good ground, others will say its not! works just fine!) then connect the remote behind the radio, then to the amp! there you go, the amp is all set.
now... you will need a high/low converter if you are sticking with the BOSE stereo. the converter has spots for a (+) and (-) input, and also RCA output. you will need to splice and tap into the front speaker wires from behind the head unit, (R+) to the (R+), (L+) to the (L+), and both (-)'s to a ground. kinda confusing, but PM me if you need it explained better!!
then just run the RCA's from that high/low converter box to the amp. run speaker wires from the amp to the sub... and there you go! all done.
feel free to ask any more specific question!!
hope this helped a little!
Melting Slicks
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Atlanta GA
I just hooked up a Line Level Converter to the pass/rear speaker, and hooked up the remote wire to the HVAC fuse in the pass footwell (that way you dont have to take apart the console... which i really didnt want to do ) and it works just fine 
red
) and it works just fine red
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Piedmont, SC Currently Own: 99 Nassau blue FRC. Previously Owned: 84,95,98 Indy Pace,01 Z06
The remote wire can run from the passenger side fuse panel in the floor. As to which fuse, I don't know. I know that's how mine was wired.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: New York Flemington
Originally Posted by NVTHIS
The remote wire can run from the passenger side fuse panel in the floor. As to which fuse, I don't know. I know that's how mine was wired.
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Drifting
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Orlando FL
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Originally Posted by JoeZ
Which wire in the back of the head unit is the remote wire? I can't find the info on the forums anywhere
try this link: BOSE Wiring
The following are the head unit power and control signals Signal CD/Radio connection SW +12 out C1(8) DK GRN, Radio "ON" signal Power C1(10) ORG ground C1(5) BLK/WHT
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: New York Flemington
Well so far the remote wire is the only thing I don't have hooked up. Now that dark green wire is in a set of 4 wires, correct? One is green and there is a dark green in that set. I tapped the dark green one, but it isn't working properly. Was it the wrong dark green one?
Also, they talk about jumpers for this sub, but didn't provide me with any in the box. There are 4 terminals on the sub, -1 +1 -2 +2. Now it says to hook the amplifier to -1 and +2, then use the jumpers to connect +1 and -2. I did that with a speaker wire instead of the jumper that from the illustration in the manual looks like a 1/4in headphone jack.
So far I have no audio coming from the sub. I know I have power to the amp, and a signal going to the amp. Also, I have jumped the remote wire from the power wire so that I get the amp turned on.
So what I have is no audio from the sub, and the remote wire still needs to be addressed. Help please!
Here is the link to the sub and amp owners manuals.
Alpine SWR-1041 D Subwoofer
Alpine MRP-M350 Mono Amplifier
If you can't log in, you can go to alpine's website and click through to the owners manuals.
Also, they talk about jumpers for this sub, but didn't provide me with any in the box. There are 4 terminals on the sub, -1 +1 -2 +2. Now it says to hook the amplifier to -1 and +2, then use the jumpers to connect +1 and -2. I did that with a speaker wire instead of the jumper that from the illustration in the manual looks like a 1/4in headphone jack.
So far I have no audio coming from the sub. I know I have power to the amp, and a signal going to the amp. Also, I have jumped the remote wire from the power wire so that I get the amp turned on.
So what I have is no audio from the sub, and the remote wire still needs to be addressed. Help please!
Here is the link to the sub and amp owners manuals.
Alpine SWR-1041 D Subwoofer
Alpine MRP-M350 Mono Amplifier
If you can't log in, you can go to alpine's website and click through to the owners manuals.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10,233
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From: Baltimore suburbs Maryland
You CAN make RCA outputs for the back of the blose unit with no need for electronics. There is a post in the Audio/Electronics section. I think it was by 99hardtop. Anyway, you need some soldering skills, and to get some pin jumper adaptors for a computer from a local specialty electronics parts store (not RS). I have mine somewhere and can dig out a picture later on tonight as its been a while since I've taken a look at the back.
EDIT, sorry it appears you are using the OE speakers, and just adding a sub. The above instructions would be for one who wants to keep the OE headunit, but add amps and speakers.
EDIT, sorry it appears you are using the OE speakers, and just adding a sub. The above instructions would be for one who wants to keep the OE headunit, but add amps and speakers.
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From: New York Flemington
Originally Posted by C5 KIDD
thats a good idea to tap into the HVAC fuse. i never thought of that!
So I got everything to fire up, but the sound level is soooo low. The sub isn't hitting hard at all and isn't loud even though I maxed out the amp. Could the singal source be too low?
I'm tapping off the rear speakers...is it possible that with the stock crossovers and such that the frequencies in the range for the sub are too deminished to really use?
Geez...I've installed this stuff before and it was no sweat, easy to do and sounded good. This is just a major PITA
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i added a sub/amp and tapped the converter into the rear speaker(pass.side). my remote wire goes from my amp to the ignition fuse on the pass. side floor. so when i turn my key, the amp turns on. its very simple. you have a complicated sub. and i would have a shop wire that for you. should cost you next to nothing. also, you might want to play around with your amp a litte, cause my sounded like crap as soon as i hooked up as well but after a little tweaking, it sounded great.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,947
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta GA
hey,
Id tap into the HVAC fuse, i got a little metal piece that "piggy backs" onto the side of the fuse (its desined just for this, probably can get it at an auto store). Whats nice about this fuse is that when you turn the key to the off position but still want radio, the sub is going to be off so you dont kill your battery. In a post above with the hooking it into the ignition fuse will probably do the same also.
As for the post above with not getting much power out of the sub, that might be due to a bad ground/positive hookup. It could also be a bad or bad quality line level converter. I have one made by a sister company of Rockford (forgot the name, new brand i think) and it works great
Btw, make sure all your connections are TIGHT! if they arent torqued on enough you can experiance crazy and random electrical issues (trust me... i know )
PM me if you need any more tips
red
Id tap into the HVAC fuse, i got a little metal piece that "piggy backs" onto the side of the fuse (its desined just for this, probably can get it at an auto store). Whats nice about this fuse is that when you turn the key to the off position but still want radio, the sub is going to be off so you dont kill your battery. In a post above with the hooking it into the ignition fuse will probably do the same also.
As for the post above with not getting much power out of the sub, that might be due to a bad ground/positive hookup. It could also be a bad or bad quality line level converter. I have one made by a sister company of Rockford (forgot the name, new brand i think) and it works great
Btw, make sure all your connections are TIGHT! if they arent torqued on enough you can experiance crazy and random electrical issues (trust me... i know
)PM me if you need any more tips
red
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2002
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From: New York Flemington
Originally Posted by red97vette
hey,
Id tap into the HVAC fuse, i got a little metal piece that "piggy backs" onto the side of the fuse (its desined just for this, probably can get it at an auto store). Whats nice about this fuse is that when you turn the key to the off position but still want radio, the sub is going to be off so you dont kill your battery. In a post above with the hooking it into the ignition fuse will probably do the same also.
As for the post above with not getting much power out of the sub, that might be due to a bad ground/positive hookup. It could also be a bad or bad quality line level converter. I have one made by a sister company of Rockford (forgot the name, new brand i think) and it works great
Btw, make sure all your connections are TIGHT! if they arent torqued on enough you can experiance crazy and random electrical issues (trust me... i know )
PM me if you need any more tips
red
Id tap into the HVAC fuse, i got a little metal piece that "piggy backs" onto the side of the fuse (its desined just for this, probably can get it at an auto store). Whats nice about this fuse is that when you turn the key to the off position but still want radio, the sub is going to be off so you dont kill your battery. In a post above with the hooking it into the ignition fuse will probably do the same also.
As for the post above with not getting much power out of the sub, that might be due to a bad ground/positive hookup. It could also be a bad or bad quality line level converter. I have one made by a sister company of Rockford (forgot the name, new brand i think) and it works great
Btw, make sure all your connections are TIGHT! if they arent torqued on enough you can experiance crazy and random electrical issues (trust me... i know
)PM me if you need any more tips
red
I'm using that $17 line level converter from Wal-Mart. My amp has a "speaker line input" that looks like it'll do the conversion for it. The connections for power and ground are very tight, and I really don't think it is a power-flow problem.
The center console is out anyway, so while I'm at it, should I just tap the wires for the audio source back there? Is there any good diagrams for the wiring? I haven't seen any and having an actual visual would make things alot easier.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,947
Likes: 2
From: Atlanta GA
since you have the dash apart, id hook up the remote wire to the actual radio and not the ignition. This could get a little messy (i dont know, maybe C5 KIDD will recommend something), but if you dont find out what to do, the location in the passenger foot well for the HVAC fuse is a very easy no brainer
good luck,
red
good luck,
red
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: New York Flemington
Originally Posted by BayouVette
sounds like you should have put together a plan before jumpin into it.
I would have suggested using the PAC OEMVet1 kit. its just plug in play..
I would have suggested using the PAC OEMVet1 kit. its just plug in play..
I just did this and it worked great!