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I am not a seasoned driver of high powered vehicles. In addition, I know each car has its own "personality" so I have been taking my time teaching myself at what point on the tach I should shift to avoid "shut down". Today for the first time I kicked a shift into second at 6000 RPM and after I finished the shift the tach slid to 7000 and no "shut down". I am an excellent power shifter from years of doing so in all of my manual cars put I never owned one with such power. I'm getting the hang of it now and I was bug eyed when I saw 7000 on the tach AND I felt the difference because I've been shifting at 6000 ever since I got the car. Now........ excuse me while I change my utrow!
I think stock rev limit is 6500rpm. I bumped mine to 6800 and when hitting it, it'll fall flat on it's face. Seems yours is very high or not at all, would get it fixed. Has it been modded at all?
Mine is 7000rpm, and my shift light in the HUD is very well monitored. The cam I have makes all its power up there anyway, a flat line across the top lol! I do have the valvetrain to visit there, but running stock pistons (fingers crossed)
Normally when you shift your revs drop 1500 rpms. So shifting at 7000 rpms, with that 1500 rpm drop that puts you at 5500 which is just below the MAX HP rpm level. If the Max HP on a z is 5800 rpms +/- then optimal shift point would be 5800+ 1500 = 7300 rpms. This is why most T1 race cars have the red line at 7500 rpms.
Normally when you shift your revs drop 1500 rpms. So shifting at 7000 rpms, with that 1500 rpm drop that puts you at 5500 which is just below the MAX HP rpm level. If the Max HP on a z is 5800 rpms +/- then optimal shift point would be 5800+ 1500 = 7300 rpms. This is why most T1 race cars have the red line at 7500 rpms.
Ive bumped my limiter a few times at 6.5k but it didnt kick the gas off, just <bumped>, best word to describe it, but I didnt press the issue. Shift light came on then too. Dont do it much though, no cash for a head job.