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Chip in key?

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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Default Chip in key?

I am looking at purchasing a salvaged C5, the owner says it runs but it will not now because (exactly what he wrote)
"1 condition is the VAC key... it needs to be programed by the dealer. since i took the battery off for nearly 9 months. the computer no longer recognizes the Key.... so it gets ready to start but doesnt."

Does this sound right? Leaving the battery out for 9 months making the key not work? Sounds shady to me? If it is true, how much does it usually cost to have the key prorgrammed? Also, is this something that you can do yourself? If its a legit problem, and I decide to purchase, the car will need to be shipped, and they usually tack on another $200-$400 if the car cannot start/go up onto the trailer under its own power.

Fast replys please, I need to decide today.
thanks!!!!
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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My understanding is that the chip in the key is just a resistor that can be any of a significantly large number of possibilities. The car computer has to expect the right resistance to start. If someone has programmed the computer to expect a different resistance, it won't start.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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Don't make such a quick decision......
I'm no expert, but it does sound shady, I'd say it's
Don't rush into this, you'll just regret it. Definately don't buy a car you can't start and drive and see how it sounds.
Could be a number of things wrong with that car you'll never know till you get it started and if you buy it and then find out after the fact, you're screwed.
Don't do it. Wait and find one you can trust, the key pellet may not even be the problem.......
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by lemansbleu2004
My understanding is that the chip in the key is just a resistor that can be any of a significantly large number of possibilities. The car computer has to expect the right resistance to start. If someone has programmed the computer to expect a different resistance, it won't start.
thats my understanding also.
I am thinking too, that if the VATS modual was messed with, such as this car was stolen once and given a salvage title, then that may be why it does not start? in any case, I dont care how good of a deal it is, if it doesnt start, I dont want it.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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Assuming VATS is the same as my previous 94, it was without power for a couple of years and even had the PCM out of the car and once I used the right resister key it started right up....
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshVette
Don't make such a quick decision......
I'm no expert, but it does sound shady, I'd say it's
Don't rush into this, you'll just regret it. Definately don't buy a car you can't start and drive and see how it sounds.
Could be a number of things wrong with that car you'll never know till you get it started and if you buy it and then find out after the fact, you're screwed.
Don't do it. Wait and find one you can trust, the key pellet may not even be the problem.......

I agree. Everything wrong with the car is cosmetic, which is fine, i just wanted something to put in the garage and tinker with and throw money at. but if I cant be certain the thing starts, I dont want any headaches.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:33 PM
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Sounds like other issues than the key. If it's the original and correct key for the car. disconnecting the battery shouldn't create that problem. If he can turn it to the on position, does he get any codes?
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by sxe60
Sounds like other issues than the key. If it's the original and correct key for the car. disconnecting the battery should create that problem. If he can turn it to the on position, does he get any codes?
I seen a picture of the cluster, with the key on. The cluster lights up, odometer lights up, and there are 3 lights, I cannot clearly see what they are. I have no clue if there are any codes.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by diviniti
I agree. Everything wrong with the car is cosmetic, which is fine, i just wanted something to put in the garage and tinker with and throw money at. but if I cant be certain the thing starts, I dont want any headaches.
I've got your solution.......just use my car as your project...

I need..

1 Supercharger
2 LPE Heads/Cam package
3 LT Headers, X-pipe
4 Borla Stinger
5 3.42's with 3000 stall TC
6 HID's
7 Lowering bolts
8 Hotckins Sway Bars........

Money orders will work fine, I'll let 21st MC know I'm coming, thanks.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sxe60
Sounds like other issues than the key. If it's the original and correct key for the car. disconnecting the battery shouldn't create that problem. If he can turn it to the on position, does he get any codes?
Here is the cluster:

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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshVette
I've got your solution.......just use my car as your project...

I need..

1 Supercharger
2 LPE Heads/Cam package
3 LT Headers, X-pipe
4 Borla Stinger
5 3.42's with 3000 stall TC
6 HID's
7 Lowering bolts
8 Hotckins Sway Bars........

Money orders will work fine, I'll let 21st MC know I'm coming, thanks.



I can help you with the lowering bolts. Let me dig around in the garage, I am sure I can come up with something.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:45 PM
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I'd say the key doesn't have the right resistance value. The ignition switch will turn as long as the key fits the switch - but if the module in the ignition switch is not seeing the right value of resistance it won't allow the car to start.

This might help explain how it works.....

VATS key codes
You need to read the resistance of the key. If you have a digital volt meter, set it on ohms mode and measure the resistance of the pellet on your key. The BCM is programmed for a specific resistance value. The BCM measures the voltage drop across the key pellet. If it is within +-10%, then the car will start.
The 15 resistor codes are:
Key# Value (Ohms)
1 392
2 523
3 681
4 887
5 1130
6 1470
7 1870
8 2370
9 3010
10 3740
11 4750
12 6040
13 7500
14 9530
15 11800
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:51 PM
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Ok, assuming the key doesnt have the right resistance.
Is it possible for the seller to take the key to the dealer to have it fixed. Or any other means possible to have it fixed without taking the car to any shop/dealer. As I said, the car is not local to me, and would need to be shipped.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 04:53 PM
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Default C-5 No Start

It's possible that the computer has been swapped out, thereby negating the VATS, even though the key is the right resistance. The owner knows.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshVette
Don't make such a quick decision......
I'm no expert, but it does sound shady, I'd say it's
Don't rush into this, you'll just regret it. Definately don't buy a car you can't start and drive and see how it sounds.
Could be a number of things wrong with that car you'll never know till you get it started and if you buy it and then find out after the fact, you're screwed.
Don't do it. Wait and find one you can trust, the key pellet may not even be the problem.......
Too many issues. Run a CarFax. Take the VIN to a local dealer and pull the service history. Do your homework. I'd NEVER buy a car like this.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:06 PM
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My guess is he is trying to hide some significant engine/tranny problem. You need to step back and think real hard about this.

JMHO
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sailohio
Too many issues. Run a CarFax. Take the VIN to a local dealer and pull the service history. Do your homework. I'd NEVER buy a car like this.

Its hard not to buy a car like this. Dirt cheap. I am trying to justify it in my head. A: Its worth the money doubled in parts alone. and B: Its cheap, I can hack it up and play with it, and not feel bad.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by johninar
My guess is he is trying to hide some significant engine/tranny problem. You need to step back and think real hard about this.

JMHO


Danger Will Robinson! Danger Will Robinson!
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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Here is the rest of the message:

"It has a security lock on it that will not let the gas go to the engine.... it cost less than 100 to get it programmed with the title of the car. You can cal and ask a chevy dealer about it.... Im not here to play games or sell you junk. the engine and drivetran is in good condition and fuctions well. "

If thats a fact, then I guess I can tell him to goto the dealer and have it programmed, give me the receipt, and I will pay for it. And if he trys to blow me off saying he cant do it, or doesnt have the time or whatever. I will assume he doesnt really want to sell it, or is trying to hide something.
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Old Jul 16, 2005 | 05:50 PM
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Sounds like BS to me, and I know VATS systems.
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