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Just curious as to how you guys are able to get a torque wrench onto the oil drain plug?
I changed the oil in my Z several weeks ago and had to use a box wrench to get to the drain plug; there's some sort of crossmember in the way that prevented me from getting any of my ratchets on it even if I used an extension (maybe I should have tried a flex joint).
Just curious as to how you guys are able to get a torque wrench onto the oil drain plug?
I changed the oil in my Z several weeks ago and had to use a box wrench to get to the drain plug; there's some sort of crossmember in the way that prevented me from getting any of my ratchets on it even if I used an extension (maybe I should have tried a flex joint).
Use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a 3" extension, just changed my oil yesterday with no problems.
more imp't then 1/2 or 3/8 is the torque range, knowing how to hold it for a proper reading, if it is a click type knowing the first click means you have reached the setting, and going 3/4 of the torque first before going to 100% i.e. lug nuts.
Use a 1/2" drive torque wrench with a 3" extension, just changed my oil yesterday with no problems.
No kidding! Damn I have several torque wrenches including a 3/8" and 1/2" drive but since I couldn't get my 1/2" ratchet to bolt up (without clearing whatever it is that's partially obstructing the drain plug) I ended up using a box wrench to loosen and fasten the plug It worked fine but it would have been nice to use a 6-point socket and to have properly torqued the plug...
I knew I should have tried a little harder to improvise with my toolset (extension, flex joint, etc.)!!
I changed the oil in my Z several weeks ago and had to use a box wrench to get to the drain plug; there's some sort of crossmember in the way that prevented me from getting any of my ratchets on it even if I used an extension (maybe I should have tried a flex joint).
I could not get a socket to seat fully on the drain plug either.
I just used a 6 point box in wrench. With the rubber o-ring, if you just get it snug, you will never have one come loose.
Same with the oil filter. I tighten mine as tight as I can by hand, and have never had one leak.
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We got a drain plug?
Seriously though, I agree with TEXHAWKO on the drain plug. Good and snug (which for most people probably works out to about 15-20 lbft) is all you need.
As far as the filter goes, I would never use any type of tool or wrench for tightening. Loosening yes. Tightening no. I get it as tight as I can by hand only. Never had a leak.
I you do buy a torque wrench, I would go with a 1/2" drive, mainly for your lug nuts. Also, get a "break-away" type torque wrench, not a "beam" type. Much easier to use and very accurate too. When it comes to torque wrenches, the old saying about getting what you pay for is pretty true. Personally I like my Craftsmen (I have more than one )
and think they are good value for the money. HTH
Just curious as to how you guys are able to get a torque wrench onto the oil drain plug?
I changed the oil in my Z several weeks ago and had to use a box wrench to get to the drain plug; there's some sort of crossmember in the way that prevented me from getting any of my ratchets on it even if I used an extension (maybe I should have tried a flex joint).
For the drain plug, I use a crowsfoot adapter (see pic below) with a 3/8" drive click type torque wrench. Using extensions and adapters will increase the effective length of the torque wrench and the output torque value will change. You will need to recalculate the correct torque setting of the torque wrench for the desired torque output. The instructions that came with your torque wrench should tell you how to do this along with providing the formula to calculate the torque setting. Hope this helps.
For the drain plug, I use a crowsfoot adapter (see pic below) with a 3/8" drive click type torque wrench. Using extensions and adapters will increase the effective length of the torque wrench and the output torque value will change. You will need to recalculate the correct torque setting of the torque wrench for the desired torque output. The instructions that came with your torque wrench should tell you how to do this along with providing the formula to calculate the torque setting. Hope this helps.
For the filter, I hand tighten only.
Hope this helps.
I'll have to look into these next time I'm at Sears
Yeah I've never torqued the drain plugs in any of my cars in the past, but this is a Corvette and the oil filter, like you guys all mentioned, should only be hand tightened...
I'll have to look into these next time I'm at Sears
Yeah I've never torqued the drain plugs in any of my cars in the past, but this is a Corvette and the oil filter, like you guys all mentioned, should only be hand tightened...
The Vette is the only car that I've ever torqued the drain plug on also. The reason I do on the Vette is that you have a steel drain plug threaded into an aluminum oil pan and I do this as a precaution so as not to over tighten the plug and damage or strip the threads.
Various manufacturers make several different varieties of extensions/adapters for use with torque wrenches - open end and flare nut crowfoot wrenches, box end adapters, etc. I have the Craftsman open end crowfoot sets in both metric and SAE sizes. I see new sets (metric, SAE, and combination sets) of the Craftsman on eBay quite often. That's where I bought mine and saved some money over store prices. Search on "Craftsman Crowfoot". I have a tendency of inserting an "s" for "crowsfoot", but I believe "crowfoot" is the correct spelling.