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Can't physically get to #7 spark plug

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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:10 PM
  #1  
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Default Can't physically get to #7 spark plug

Need a little advice. I can't get my hands into the engine compartment far enought to remove the spark plug boot to the driver's side fire wall plug. I believe this is number #7. I really don't want to take it in for anyone else to work on. Do you have any advice?

Thanks,
rr
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:14 PM
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Never tried but i hear #7 is a bear.... someone who has done it will surely chime in.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:37 PM
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I had a socket extension with two elbows. Not sure of the technical name of the tool. I just worked it over the plug then used the ratchet to loosen, after it was loose I turned the extension by hand, put a little side pressure on the plug and pulled it out with the socket.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:43 PM
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My problem is not removing the plug - I can't get my hand in far enough to remove the boot! Fat hand I guess. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
rr
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Road Runner
My problem is not removing the plug - I can't get my hand in far enough to remove the boot! Fat hand I guess. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
rr
oops I need to read a little more carefully. I can not remember having trouble with the boot. Sorry.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:52 PM
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Thanks shurite44, I appreciate all the help I can get.
rr
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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Why don't you "borrow" someone with a smaller hand?
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 05:54 PM
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you could always pull the coil pack off..
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:10 PM
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I'll bite - what's the "coil pack"?
Thanks,
rr
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:13 PM
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find a female, wife, neighbor, daughter with a small hand. Others have done it
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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Just info,, I bought the Snap - On ball socket for the plug and the cost for 1 socket + $25 shipping was about $65.00 . Yes I think the $25 shipping was too much,, given the cost of the socket. 99 Nassau Blue
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jimcork1
Just info,, I bought the Snap - On ball socket for the plug and the cost for 1 socket + $25 shipping was about $65.00 . Yes I think the $25 shipping was too much,, given the cost of the socket. 99 Nassau Blue
Here's a pic of the Snap-On double swivel socket.

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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:32 PM
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I followed the tech tip and took apart the vacumm hose and such. then a pint of blood and a pound of skin later I got them off. I'm 5'6" and have small hands then most and it still took me a bit to get it off. I started screaming words I've never even hear of. I had normal hand tools as well just one elbow and got them all done in about an hour.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 06:44 PM
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You're much more talented than me. It took me two DAYS to remove the first boot that was welded onto the plug. Finally after attacking it with needle nose pliers the boot came off but he wire was 'welded' to the spark plug.

Each one has been a similar ordeal. I've got all of them out and replaced but the one buried in the drivers side firewall. I just can't get to the boot to pull it off. I've got all the wrenches that work to remove the plug once I get to it.

Thanks,
rr
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 07:00 PM
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remove the coil pack and that will give you more room. The coil pack is what the other end of the spark plug wire plugs into. Bolts to what would be the valve cover.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Antvette
I followed the tech tip and took apart the vacumm hose and such.

I used basic tools (including a 3/8" swivel fitting for the socket & ratchet wrench extension), followed tech tip above and took my time. All 8 plugs changed in less than 60 minutes and this was the 1st time I changed plugs on my C5. BTW...I, too, have large hands.....Good luck....
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Z06-JIM
Here's a pic of the Snap-On double swivel socket.

Looks like a socket with two universals stuck in it. For that money, I hope it's more than that!

RonJ
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave1998
find a female, wife, neighbor, daughter with a small hand. Others have done it
Oh yea. I'd like to see how much love you get when your wife finally gets her hand out of there all scratched and bloody. I'd rather pull the engine than go that route.

But seriously, the boots stick to the ceramic. The two methods that I have found to work on removing the boots is to disconnect the plug wire from the coil so you can work without tension on it. then if you can get your fingers on it twist it before you pull it. Pulling it causes the suction to increase and makes it virtually impossible to remove. twist it to break the seal and then reach as close to the head as possible and pull off the boot. If you can't get your mits on it, sometimes a long screwdriver can be used to work the boot backwards by prying against the head to work the boot off. Cursing is par for the course. But remember when you reinstall them to squirt some dielectric grease on the wire/tip contact and rub some on the ceramic to make it possible to pull the boot off easier the next time.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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you can loosen the air/egr rubber hose next to the master cylinder and push it out of the way. that will give you some more room to get to the plug wire and plug.

also, try a pair of long angled needle nose pliers to pull on the wire boot.
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteNoob
you can loosen the air/egr rubber hose next to the master cylinder and push it out of the way. that will give you some more room to get to the plug wire and plug.

also, try a pair of long angled needle nose pliers to pull on the wire boot.
i was reading all the posts and this is the ticket, remove the air injection plumbing(no egr on the c5,none,never); you could even remove the air tube onto to the ex. man.(2 10mm bolts)for more room, this is the first thing i do when removing the plugs for header installs, get the air injection tubing out of the way and you're there
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