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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:04 AM
  #1  
l80ous's Avatar
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Default Gonnabe C5 Owner

Just about to purchase a 98 C5 this weekend (im hopeing)
I live in the UK and currently have a *** import Supra Twin Turbo 94-reg.
Is there anything you guys can make me awear of when taking the final look round this car, I noticed last time the fan belt was Squeaking will this go away as the car has been stood.
What sort of performance differences will I see agasint my supra, will the C5 be much quicker? if so in what way?
I'm new so be kind!!
Cheers
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by l80ous
Just about to purchase a 98 C5 this weekend (im hopeing)
I live in the UK and currently have a *** import Supra Twin Turbo 94-reg.
Is there anything you guys can make me awear of when taking the final look round this car, I noticed last time the fan belt was Squeaking will this go away as the car has been stood.
What sort of performance differences will I see agasint my supra, will the C5 be much quicker? if so in what way?
I'm new so be kind!!
Cheers

Take a look at this website for some good background information:

http://www.idavette.net/

Also, look at the "Sticky" at the top entitled "Weights and Measurements". This post is loaded with comprehensive info compiled by a Forum Member.

I wouldn't worry about the squeaking belt. Perhaps just a dry/loose belt. Not a common problem I've heard about the Vette. Just like any other car, take a good visible inspection and have a quality mechanic go over it for you. You'll love the Vette.

Cheers from this side of the Pond
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:30 AM
  #3  
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Good luck with the purchase. Here are a few links that you should check out. B.t.w. The 94 Supra TT can be a pretty fast car so don't get your hopes to high on the Corvette trashing it. You will feel the torque of the Vette and it should feel more "solid" to you. The Corvette is a great all around car with a lot of refinement. You can achieve close to 400 rwhp with cam/heads/headers and in excess of 500 with a supercharger setup.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...998/index.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...7&forum_id=103

Here's a test drive checklist posted by forum member Patches!

This is not an exhaustive list but should get you started.

• Documentation available? Window Sticker? Build Sheet ?
• Are maintenance records available?
• Who maintained the car and where?
• Are maintenance or upgrade receipts available?
• How many previous owners have there been?
• Can the former owners be contacted?
• Is it currently registered?
• Does it have a current inspection sticker?
• Will it pass state / emissions inspection?
• Are there any modifications?
• If equipped with standard transmission, has the clutch ever been replaced? If so, what mileage?
• Has the car ever been in an accident or had bodywork done?
• Has the car been garaged?
• What have been the average driving conditions? (Sun only, rain, snow?)
• Does the car need anything now?

Body Condition
1. Does the car sit level?
2. Check body panels for uniformity.
3. Check for body damage. Look at: Wheel wells, floor pan, rear hatch front and rear valance, fenders, quarter panels, uniform body molding. Check for paint over-spray in: headlights, gas door, door jams, fender skirts, engine compartment? Is there evidence of body damage?
4. Is the paint oxidized?
5. Has the car ever been repainted?
6. If so, why, by whom, and how long ago?
7. Do sides of the car appear aligned?
8. Are there any waves or stress cracks in the fiberglass?
9. Are there any dings or stone chips in the paint?
10. Are there any cracks or chips in the windshield or side and rear glass?
11. Do the doors open and close normally?
12. Do the doors and trunk lock and unlock correctly with the key?
13. Do the doors and trunk (if applicable) lock/unlock correctly with remote key FOB
14. Does the rear hatch glass open properly? From inside?
15. Do the struts hold the rear hatch open?
16. Does the hood release work?
17. Does the color match the trim tag color code?
18. Are there missing badges, or moldings?

Chassis & Suspension
1. Are the tires in good condition?
2. Is tire wear uniform?
3. Are the wheels stock?
4. Are the wheels in good condition?
5. Are the brake rotors in good condition? (check for cracks or scarring)
6. Are there any wet spots under the car?
7. Are the rubber axle boots in good condition?
8. Inspect the tie rod ends and ball joints.
9. Inspect the shocks. If the shocks appear to be wet, they may be leaking and in need of repair.
10. Is the exhaust in good condition? Check the flanged joints to make sure they are intact.

Interior Condition
1. Are all door, hatch, and top seals in good condition?
2. Are the seats clean? Torn or cracked? Worn?
3. Is the carpet clean? Worn?
4. Can you adjust the mirrors?
5. Does the interior light work? Does it work with the doors?
6. Is the dash in good condition?
7. Is the center console in good condition?
8. Does the glove compartment door work properly?
9. Do the windshield wipers function properly?
10. Does the overall interior condition match the mileage?
11. If equipped, does the tilt wheel work properly?
12. If equipped, does the telescoping wheel work properly?
13. If equipped does the alarm work?

Engine Evaluation
1. Is the oil clean? Dark or black colored oil indicates a change is necessary and may be indicative of poor past maintenance trends.
2. When was the last oil change? Overdue? Check the DIC for oil life remaining to see if it roughly matches the condition of the oil on the dipstick.
3. Check for a leaking oil pan gasket.
4. Check for a leaking front/rear main seal.
5. Check the master cylinder and slave cylinder for leakage.
6. Check all coolant lines for leakage.
7. Check the coolant in the reservoir. A brown frothy mixture in the reservoir usually indicates oil and water mixing in the oil filter/cooler housing.
8. Inspect the fuel lines going to the fuel rail for brittleness or cracking.
9. Inspect the plug wires for brittleness or cracking.
10. Inspect the brake fluid for color. Black colored brake fluid indicates a change is necessary.
11. Inspect the clutch fluid condition. Black colored brake fluid indicates a bleed is due but not that anything is necessarily amiss. The test drive and the clutch feel will reveal problems with the clutch.
12. Is the air filter clean?
13. Is the engine bay clean and neat? All hoses / wiring in correct place?
14. Check the condition of the belts. If they’re worn / cracked, they need replacing.

Engine Operation
1. Does the car start properly?
2. The car should have a steady idle.
3. Check the Driver Information Center (DIC, the car’s computer display)? Engine Codes recorded? If any are current, they need to be addressed before the purchase.
4. Is the oil pressure normal?
5. Is engine coolant temperature normal?
6. Is there valve chatter or excessive engine noise?
7. Is there excessive engine vibration at idle or revving? (can indicate bad motor mount).
8. With the engine running, listen for leaks at the exhaust manifolds and exhaust.
9. Does the heat work?
10. Does the AC work? Is the compressor quiet?
11. Does the AC / heater blow at each speed?
12. Does the radio work properly (tape and CD if applicable)?
13. If equipped, does the power antenna work?
14. If equipped, do the power windows and door locks work?
15. Does the defroster work properly?
16. Do all ***** / controls function correctly?
17. Do all of the gauges / dashboard lights work properly?
18. Check the crank pulley for excessive wobble that would indicate imminent failure.
19. Is the battery in good condition? Check to see if one of the older, leakers isn’t still present.
20. Do all lights / signals work correctly?
21. Headlights (high and low beams)
22. Brake lights
23. Parking/Side Marker Lights
24. Turn Signals
25. Check for “Rocking Seat Syndrome”
26. Check for a leaking differential or transmission
27. Make sure the headlight motors properly extend and retract the headlights with no unusual grinding noises or hesitation.
28. If it is a 6-speed, get the column lock bypass kit if it is not already installed. The wheel will turn with the key out of the ignition if the bypass is installed or the recall has been properly performed (A4).

Test Drive Evaluation
1. Does the parking brake work properly?
2. How does the brake pedal feel?
The following 3 questions assume manual transmission:
3. How does the clutch pedal feel?
4. Does the clutch operate in a smooth quiet manner?
5. Does the shifter seem tight?
6. Are there any squeaks / noises (specially over rough roads)?
7. Is the steering smooth and responsive?
8. When going straight is the wheel straight? Does the car drift to one side?
9. Brake with your hands off the wheel does the car stop straight?
10. At highway speeds does the car pull, or shake / shimmy?
11. Does the cruise control work properly?
12. Is there exceptional wind noise?
13. If equipped, does the ABS system function properly?
14. If equipped, does the Traction control system function properly?
15. If equipped, does the Selective Ride Control function properly?
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 09:34 AM
  #4  
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wow, talon said it all. good luck getting a c5. be sure to respect the car's power. safe driving. bub
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #5  
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Good luck with your purchase. Check for any leaks (especially the rear differential area). See if any recalls have been done too. And, see if the owner has a good record of what maintenance was done on the car.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 10:30 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by JDs00PewterCoupe
Good luck with your purchase. Check for any leaks (especially the rear differential area). See if any recalls have been done too. And, see if the owner has a good record of what maintenance was done on the car.

The Bloke Im buying it from imports mainly Rams but does a few vettes as well, this has been in the country for 8 months from mississippi.
Ill be sure to check the rear diff.
Thanks for all your help
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