antifreeze flush/refill







I just did mine last week - cost me about $18 (2 gal. Prestone red) and about an hour of time. I was dreading the job since the Vette is somewhat "unconventional" compared to my other vehicles I have done, but now having done it I'd have to say it was one of the easiest. I flushed the block, radiator, and heater core both ways, refilled and had no problems with trapped air. I have driven it 300 miles since and no leaks or overheating so I guess it was a success.
"I love it when a plan comes together"
Fred
I just did mine last week - cost me about $18 (2 gal. Prestone red) and about an hour of time. I was dreading the job since the Vette is somewhat "unconventional" compared to my other vehicles I have done, but now having done it I'd have to say it was one of the easiest. I flushed the block, radiator, and heater core both ways, refilled and had no problems with trapped air. I have driven it 300 miles since and no leaks or overheating so I guess it was a success.
"I love it when a plan comes together"

I done the same... about 1000 miles ago.. The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts


Fred


I'm sorry, I know there are good dealers out there, but there are so many bad ones that I don't even bother to attempt to shift through all of the BS anymore
I'm sorry, I know there are good dealers out there, but there are so many bad ones that I don't even bother to attempt to shift through all of the BS anymore
Flushing the old coolant and refilling it would take less time that you'd spend in detailing your car. Just open the dain plug a the bottom (drivers side). Its on the corner of your radiator, a plastic plug. Keep your heater running to the max. Fill the fresh water from top, while the old water/coolant runs out from the bottom. After the clear water runs, stop pouring more water and let it all run out. When all the water is run out, plug the drain plug by pushing it back into its place and tighten it. Add 1.3 Gallons of coolant, and the rest water to bring it to FILL level in the container. Thats it. Drive the car, let it run at nomal temps. After it cools, check the level of coolant. Add some more if needed.
Or pay the dealer a hunderd and fity bucks or more to do this.
Flushing the old coolant and refilling it would take less time that you'd spend in detailing your car. Just open the dain plug a the bottom (drivers side). Its on the corner of your radiator, a plastic plug. Keep your heater running to the max. Fill the fresh water from top, while the old water/coolant runs out from the bottom. After the clear water runs, stop pouring more water and let it all run out. When all the water is run out, plug the drain plug by pushing it back into its place and tighten it. Add 1.3 Gallons of coolant, and the rest water to bring it to FILL level in the container. Thats it. Drive the car, let it run at nomal temps. After it cools, check the level of coolant. Add some more if needed. [QUOTE=Vette_Fan]
Um, isn't that a little unfriendly to the environment?!?
Flushing the old coolant and refilling it would take less time that you'd spend in detailing your car. Just open the dain plug a the bottom (drivers side). Its on the corner of your radiator, a plastic plug. Keep your heater running to the max. Fill the fresh water from top, while the old water/coolant runs out from the bottom. After the clear water runs, stop pouring more water and let it all run out. When all the water is run out, plug the drain plug by pushing it back into its place and tighten it. Add 1.3 Gallons of coolant, and the rest water to bring it to FILL level in the container. Thats it. Drive the car, let it run at nomal temps. After it cools, check the level of coolant. Add some more if needed.


Fred
Paid the same price for the power flush, well worth it, IMHO


I just did mine last week - cost me about $18 (2 gal. Prestone red) and about an hour of time. I was dreading the job since the Vette is somewhat "unconventional" compared to my other vehicles I have done, but now having done it I'd have to say it was one of the easiest. I flushed the block, radiator, and heater core both ways, refilled and had no problems with trapped air. I have driven it 300 miles since and no leaks or overheating so I guess it was a success.
"I love it when a plan comes together"


for those that want to do it "by the booK"---
------------------------------------------------
Caution
With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.
Important
If the procedure below is not followed a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.
1) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
2) Remove the surge tank cap:
3)Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
4) Place a drain pan under the drain fowl.
5) Open the radiator drain fowl.
6) Allow the cooling system to drain completely.
7) Inspect the engine coolant for the following:
Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.
Normal in appearance -- continue with the next step.
Notice
When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
8) Close the radiator drain fowl. Tighten.
Tighten the radiator drain fowl to 2 N·m (18 lb in).
9) Fill the cooling system through the surge tank.
10) Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL® coolant and deionized water.
11) Start the engine.
12) Allow the engine to idle for 1 minute.
13) Install surge tank cap.
14) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant temperature reaches 99°C (210°F).
15)Shut off the engine.
16) Remove the surge tank cap.
17) Start the engine.
18) Allow the engine to Idle for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above the COLD FULL mark on the surge tank.
19) Install the surge tank cap.
20) Cycle the engine RPMs from idle to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).
21) Shut off the engine.
22) Remove the surge tank cap.
23) Top off the coolant as necessary, 12.7 mm (0.5 in) above FULL COLD mark on the surge tank.
24) Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the engine compartment.
25) Inspect the concentration of the engine coolant.
26) Install the surge tank cap.


The difference between FLUSHING and REFILLING is:
Flushing uses water under pressure to rinse all of the old coolant and corrosion, sediment, etc. out. Refilling is just that - refilling. Also, if all you do is drain the radiator & refill it you will be leaving the block and heater core full of old coolant!!
I'm sure there are many who could provide a more technical sounding description, but here's how I FLUSHED mine BOTH WAYS:
Set heater temp to full hot (90)
Open radiator drain
Remove both radiator hoses @ water pump
Remove both heater hoses @ water pump
Remove water pump inlet housing (thermostat is part of the inlet).
Flush water through both heater hoses - this does the core both ways.
Plug the heater hose fittings on the water pump (I stuffed shop towels in) and flush water through the water pump where each rad. hose goes - this does the block both ways
Flush the resevoir tank
Flush water through top & bottom rad. hoses - this does the radiator both ways
Close radiator drain, connect all hoses. Leave the inlet hsg. off the pump for now
Pour Dex-Cool in resevoir very slowly until it gets up to the bottom of the hole where the inlet/therm hsg goes - (much like filling a manual trans) - this eliminates much trapped air
Install inlet/therm hsg, lower rad. hose & finish filling - total of 6 1/2 qts. Dex-Cool first, then finish with water
Run engine to operating temp with cap off resevoir while checking for leaks, shut off engine and let it cool down
After engine is cool add water as needed & install cap
Check level & top off after the next few times you drive until it stabilizes
Smile as you think about how much $$$ you saved
Last edited by 01QuickSilver; Oct 17, 2005 at 02:29 AM.











