Im taking my 02 to the track for the first time soon, and I wanted to know from a few of the more experienced guys...
What are the optimal shift points (RPM) for a 2002 ZO6, when trying to eek out every little bit of 1/4 mile performance? Do you shift by useing the stock tach? Do you shift right at where the tach goes to redline? Or before?

Thanks

 

as close to the limiter as possible with out hitting it...takes a little practice to shift at that point everytime...rangers got a good right up on techniques just do a search

 

Get as close to 6500rpms as you can. A slightly less (6300)rpm shift from 1-2 sometimes is better, especially to help prevent excessive wheel spin.
However, at 6500 rpm's, you'd better be quick to shift or you'll bang the rev limiter & kill your run.
Ron

 

Good advice.

I'd put it this way. Where (rpm) you start the shift depends on how fast you shift and how much you ease the throttle.

Goal is to shift at the highest possible rpm without invoking the limiter before or DURING the shift. Just kissing the limiter will cost less than a tenth. Slamming into the limiter will drop the nose of the car and essentially kill the ET.

I am too busy to watch the tac in 1st and 2d, ensuring I keep the car in the (prime traction) groove. So I go by engine sound instead. Remember the tac lags behind the actual rpm in 1st and some (but less) in 2d. It's pretty accurate in 3d which I wind to an indicated 6500 before a very fast shift to 4th.

Ranger

 

Do 01 Z06's also hit the limiter at 6500rpm or sooner? Here, I always thought it was 6200, same as my WS6 was. heck I been shifting at like 5900-6k, lol

 

The rev limiter (fuel cut-off) on all C5-Z06s is factory-set at 6600. Again, at WOT the tac lags behind actual rpm in 1st and 2d; so in those gears, if you wait to shift until you see 6500, you'll hit the limiter.

Ranger

 

I nipped the limiter on one of my runs in the top of third, a smidge of sputter and then it went in quickly.

This is a tricky topic, but once you get it right, it's awesome.

 

lol, I just realized I original typed rwp instead of rpm, haha.

Anyhow, thats cool, the rev-limiter is 400rpm higher than my WS6 was....I used to peg the limiter on my WS6 all the time, and have been fearful to peg it on the Z. Thats great news to hear this engine safely revs quite a bit higher! I tell ya, this car is so mild at low rpms, almost feels like an economy car or something at low rpms, but once the rpms climb up past 4k than it really kicks in almost like a 2-storke powerband.

Funny comparison, is my girlfriend's 94TA feels like a monster at low RPM's and makes the vette seem weak in that area. But up top it's a huge difference. Those LT1's are awesome in the low rpms though. They feel so torquey! But the Z's top end destorys it.

 

So come on, whats the big secret, someone break it down to the exact shift points on the RPM gauge one should shift in each gear. I'm guessing...

1st: 6100-6200
2nd: same
3rd: 6300-6400
4th: 6400-6500

That about right?

 

It isn't a secret. Just that one size does NOT fit all.

The engine revs very fast in 1st and still fast in 2d. Where you start the stift depends on your (1) reaction time (does everyone cut .000 lights?) (2) leg speed and (3) how much and how fast you lift the throttle.

The only way to determine the shift points that will work best for you is to experiment and keep adjusting up until you just nip the limiter and then back it down a tad. Shift points will be slightly higher for 2d than 1st. Shift from 3d can be made at 6500 if you have good RT and a fast left leg.

FWIW, getting the shift points perfect on a pass is worth .1-.2 seconds in ET or more.

Ranger

 

I shift at 6500 (all gears) also, but I have raised the rev limiter to 6800rpm. Rpms really come up fast in first on the spray and you have to compansate in your driving style to get it right.
Robert

 

I use the shift light in the head up display. Works very well but, you have to remain focused on using it.

 

A Raptor shift light makes this process a lot easier IMHO. Literature says that the Raptor lights up right on the set RPM's not delayed like the tach (I don't know about this). I also like it becase it is much easier to see than the HUD light.

 

I know a few people that have reprogrammed the shift light in the HUD for the skip shift light. Some say you can see it pretty good? Pretty interesting though, because I didn't know you could substitute it.

 

Well, to be honest I am a fast shifter. I hammer the gears very hard and quick, where people have said to me in the past in other cars, man can't believe you havent broken anything. I don't power shift though. Anyhow, I'm gonna try it now without shifting until 6400

Regarding the raptor shift light, I debated getting one, but wanted to hear more opinions on if they are really worth it.

 

Thanks everyone!!..

Ranger, you alway have some great advice..

I'll be taking the 02 Z to Cecil MD (a nice low track), on the 12th, and I will be useing all the advice I picked up here.

Oh and it looks like I'll be gunning for a 6300-6400 rpm shift on the lower gears and a 6500 rpm shift on the upper gears.. I'll try this, and adjust as needed.

 

Just curious as to how much you guys lift during shifting. I lift only to about 3/4 throttle and shift at 6600, rev limiter bumped to 6800 and do not tag the limiter. I have thought about no lifting at all on the 3-4 shift, but never tried it.

 

Here goes.

Powershifting is very much a mixed bag.

(1) Powershifting won't lower your times unless the traction is very good. That won't happen on stock tires. On drag radials that are well-heated and with very good track prep, traction will definitely support a powershift from 3d to 4th. But not necessarily 1-2 and 2-3. Try it both ways and see which is faster. Just remember if the powershift makes the tires spin, some easing of the throttle may make them spin less, which probably will lower the ET.

(2) Powershifting definitely increases the risk of damage to the tranny. Most of the Z06 racers I know personally that powershift have had their trannies rebuilt or replaced. My tranny is fine so far; but I powershift ONLY when conditions reward it. Otherwise, I shift very fast but ease the throttle.

Don't mean to preach. Opinions vary, certainly. But from my experience, just about the last thing anyone should do to lower their ETs on stock tires is to start powershifting.

It take practice to get the moving parts of a very fast shift synchronized. Leg speed governs the pace. The legs (clutch and throttle) must move in two directions. The shfter hand moves in only one direction. And the movements need to occur fast and in proper sequence. Practice, practice, practice.

How much lift? Answer: the amount required to minimize spin, given available traction.

Ranger

 

Thanks for the advice Ranger. I have only begun to drag race and learn more each trip out. Constantly experimenting with tire pressure, shift points, etc. Also what is your opinion on removing the front sway bar? Will removing the weight lower the ET any, improve the launch etc.? Or is this an old wives tale
Thanks
Chris

 

Others can probably answer that question better than I. I'm essentially a minimalist when it comes to mods and chasis tricks, such as loosening the front sway bar to assist in weight transfer to the rear tires.

With that said, I'd get 50-100 passes done working on driving techniques before doing much more than a CAI and DRs.

Once the techniques are well embedded, small mods can make the benefit of incremental change more measurable.

Just a thought.

Ranger