How much Dynamat do I need?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Nevada City CA
How much Dynamat do I need?
Well I've gotten rid of most of my road noise with new non-runflat Bridgestone S-03s. I'm thinking of putting some soundproofing in. How many square feet will cover a C5? Is the consensus that it's worth the bother?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,118
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From: Madison (Huntsville) Alabama
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
If noise reduction is all you're looking for (not heat rejection), I'd try stuffing the wheel wells with plain old fiberglass wall insulation first. It's cheaper by far, and a whole lot less work.
I did the rear hatch area with Frostking first, and it took me most of the day to do. I assume Dynamat would require just as much work. And if you do the cabin and doors, there's a lot more work involved. After I did the Frostking, I could tell very little difference in the noise level.
Then I did the wheel wells. The difference was considerable. It's not Lexus-quiet, but it's certainly tolerable. At least now I can hear the radio and CD.
I'm not sure if just doing the wheel wells would do the trick, or if the two (hatch area and wheel wells) have a synergistic effect, but it's worth trying the wheels wells alone first and see how it goes. Not only can you do it in an hour or so, but it only costs a few dollars as opposed to $100+ with the Frostking, or several hundred with Dynamat.
I did the rear hatch area with Frostking first, and it took me most of the day to do. I assume Dynamat would require just as much work. And if you do the cabin and doors, there's a lot more work involved. After I did the Frostking, I could tell very little difference in the noise level.
Then I did the wheel wells. The difference was considerable. It's not Lexus-quiet, but it's certainly tolerable. At least now I can hear the radio and CD.
I'm not sure if just doing the wheel wells would do the trick, or if the two (hatch area and wheel wells) have a synergistic effect, but it's worth trying the wheels wells alone first and see how it goes. Not only can you do it in an hour or so, but it only costs a few dollars as opposed to $100+ with the Frostking, or several hundred with Dynamat.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 539
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From: Nevada City CA
Originally Posted by RocketDawg
If noise reduction is all you're looking for (not heat rejection), I'd try stuffing the wheel wells with plain old fiberglass wall insulation first. It's cheaper by far, and a whole lot less work.
What is the easiest way to access the wheel wells? I'll do a search, must be a posted set of instructions.
I still might put some heat insulation on the tunnel, as my legs get pretty toasty in the summer.
Thanks! The cf continues to have all the right answers...
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,651
Likes: 9
From: HOW FAST WAS I GOING OFFICER? Los Angeles Hating GM Dealership Service Dept.'s Since Sept. 2004
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I used 3 boxes total (39 sq.ft in each box)... but I triple layered in some areas.. did the doors, wheel wells, etc. Here are some pix...
Dave Q.
http://imageevent.com/myvettedream/d...769bk1.zebra_s
Dave Q.
http://imageevent.com/myvettedream/d...769bk1.zebra_s
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,118
Likes: 122
From: Madison (Huntsville) Alabama
CI 6-7-8 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09
Originally Posted by scottydog
Nice idea! The $ is not so much of an issue, but it beats the heck out of spending a weekend removing/reinstalling my entire interior-carpets/seats etc. My new tires took out 75% of the noise (the stock GY runcraps had started "cupping", and were making a horrible racket).
What is the easiest way to access the wheel wells? I'll do a search, must be a posted set of instructions.
I still might put some heat insulation on the tunnel, as my legs get pretty toasty in the summer.
Thanks! The cf continues to have all the right answers...
What is the easiest way to access the wheel wells? I'll do a search, must be a posted set of instructions.
I still might put some heat insulation on the tunnel, as my legs get pretty toasty in the summer.
Thanks! The cf continues to have all the right answers...
You only have to do the rear wheels. Remove the wheel, and then remove the wheel well liner. I think there are something like 12 hex-head or Phillips screws. Then pull the plastic liner out. It can be a chore to put back in, but if I can do it, anyone can.
Then just stuff the insulation in the voids you see, and you can also line the wheel well itself with either Frostking or Reflectix. Be careful on the very top of the wheel well. There's already a piece of foam rubber insulation on the liner, and if you cover that up it's hard to get the liner back in. Also ... don't block the drains. Otherwise, I just stuffed using a metal yardstick as a tamper.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 4,501
Likes: 1
From: TAMPA BAY FL.
Can water get in there and screw up the fiberglass insulation? that stuff becomes useless if its wet. It would also hold the wtare and become heavier. I would suspect eventually it would stink like hell when it got musty.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,308
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From: The Beautiful Greater Bay Area California
Side Comment: Holy Frack, Dave! Why your pictorial sequence is a great guide for the DIY'er interested in insulating their C5. 
Again, as mentioned above, Dynamat is an excellent product. Double layering, precise pattern cutting (for best fitment), AND, thorough taping of the insulation make a difference, especially in the wheel wells. Good luck to you.
Again, as mentioned above, Dynamat is an excellent product. Double layering, precise pattern cutting (for best fitment), AND, thorough taping of the insulation make a difference, especially in the wheel wells. Good luck to you.
Last edited by edensknight; Nov 27, 2005 at 01:56 PM.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 3,814
Likes: 105
From: Dearborn Heights Michigan
Originally Posted by MyVetteDream
I used 3 boxes total (39 sq.ft in each box)... but I triple layered in some areas.. did the doors, wheel wells, etc. Here are some pix...
Dave Q.
http://imageevent.com/myvettedream/d...769bk1.zebra_s
Dave Q.
http://imageevent.com/myvettedream/d...769bk1.zebra_s
Thanks,
Fred
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,651
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From: HOW FAST WAS I GOING OFFICER? Los Angeles Hating GM Dealership Service Dept.'s Since Sept. 2004
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by FKING1
Terrific post Dave. Sure shows how to do it up right.
Thanks,
Fred
Thanks,
Fred
Just took those as I worked. After the 15th hour (only cockpit and cargo area), the camera got out aside and I just wanted to finish...
I did the doors on another day and the wheel wells even later...
In all, I believe it was about 24 hours of labor (solo)... if you can get some help, take it!
I won't say Dynamat Xtreme is worse or better... it's completely different from Frost King.
Mike Mercury has the low down on FK and I believe there is a guy here who sells a kit with precut pieces using FK as well.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 54,204
Likes: 180
From: S.W. Ohio. . . . . . NRA Life Member
IMO the Dynamat Xtreme and Damplifier Pro are much better products thatn the Frost King. 'Cept they cost more and weight a lot more. So it all comes down to ones goals.
For me... added weight was as bad a thing as a visit from my mother-in-law So, I went with the lightest weight product available. Your mileage may vary.
For me... added weight was as bad a thing as a visit from my mother-in-law
So, I went with the lightest weight product available. Your mileage may vary.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,103
Likes: 4
From: Oakley CA
Originally Posted by Z06-JIM
I stripped out my entire interior and used 3 bulk packs (over 100 sq. ft.) of Dynomat Extreme. This also included both doors.
Greatly improved interior sound quality.
Greatly improved interior sound quality.
