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I've noticed quite few C6's with the cross drilled and slotted rotors with rotor hub rust. I just purchased the rotors for my C5 ZO6 and ran into the exact same problem. They sell covers for the hubs in black, red and chrome, but they are way overpriced. I went down to Autozone and bought a can of SP-734 gloss black VHT rotor and caliper paint rated for 900 degrees. I used some steel wool and removed all the rust on each disc, wiped them down and applied the paint to each rotor. It came out excellent, and adds a real nice look to the wheels.
How did you mask off the contact part of the disk??
Thanks for the post.
Excellent question. I did not mask off the contact area of the disc, and actually allowed spray in the contact area just beyond the hub. Drying time of the paint is 35-40 minutes, with a coat being applied every 20 min. Actual full drying time is 24 hours. I was able to apply 2 coats to each hub within 40 mins. Using 2 floor jacks, I was able to remove both rear wheels at once and paint both hubs putting the car in neutral to rotate each disc to apply paint to the areas under the calipers. When all the hubs were complete, I threw the tires back on and immeadiately took the car out on the highway and did some high speed breaking scraping off any excess paint in the contact area before it fully dried. This gave me optimum permanent coverage, and the best results. Masking would have been too difficult to get perfect and may allowed areas beyond the contact area exposed to the elements.
Excellent question. I did not mask off the contact area of the disc, and actually allowed spray in the contact area just beyond the hub. Drying time of the paint is 35-40 minutes, with a coat being applied every 20 min. Actual full drying time is 24 hours. I was able to apply 2 coats to each hub within 40 mins. Using 2 floor jacks, I was able to remove both rear wheels at once and paint both hubs putting the car in neutral to rotate each disc to apply paint to the areas under the calipers. When all the hubs were complete, I threw the tires back on and immeadiately took the car out on the highway and did some high speed breaking scraping off any excess paint in the contact area before it fully dried. This gave me optimum permanent coverage, and the best results. Masking would have been too difficult to get perfect and may allowed areas beyond the contact area exposed to the elements.
That is a great method, but can you leave the car on jack stands and run it in gear without the tires for the rear and just slightly drag the brakes to remove the paint in the contact area? Or do you recommend doing all four wheels hubs, with the last coat on then take it out for a run to remove the over spary in the contact area?
Thanks,
Rsty
That is a great method, but can you leave the car on jack stands and run it in gear without the tires for the rear and just slightly drag the brakes to remove the paint in the contact area?Rsty
I don't like the idea of running the car on jack stands, but I suppose you could, but optimum safety to me says no. Take the car out and break hard.
Originally Posted by RstyNutz
:Or do you recommend doing all four wheels hubs, with the last coat on then take it out for a run to remove the over spary in the contact area?
Thanks,
Rsty
Yes, the last coat before it has fully dried. You have some time, because it takes 24 hours to fully dry, but don't wait too long.
That is a great method, but can you leave the car on jack stands and run it in gear without the tires for the rear and just slightly drag the brakes to remove the paint in the contact area?
This will work with the rear wheels. In fact all you have to do is put the car in gear and bring the speedometer above 7 or 8 mph and the rear brakes will be applied by the Traction Control system.
Bill